Possibly WTB C4 IFS/IRS
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,485
Likes: 566
From: Clearwater Florida
..... I have a complete rotor to rotor Dana 44 set-up for sale out of a '95 Corvette ... its complete except for the shocks ... $1500 plus shipping ........ I'm in Clearwater , Florida near Tampa Bay ...........
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
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84 - 87 had a slightly narrower hub to hub distance (18mm a side ) vs the '88+ cars .
Not usually a issue in a retro fit app with custom wheels
You can get a complete D36 (8" Ford equiv ) for $500 + but the rarer D44 ( 9" equiv ) only fitted behind the manual trans ( 20% of production ) commands prices typical of above
Not usually a issue in a retro fit app with custom wheels
You can get a complete D36 (8" Ford equiv ) for $500 + but the rarer D44 ( 9" equiv ) only fitted behind the manual trans ( 20% of production ) commands prices typical of above
Last edited by vetteoz; Sep 14, 2013 at 04:07 AM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 15
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84 - 87 had a slightly narrower hub to hub distance (18mm a side ) vs the '88+ cars .
Not usually a issue in a retro fit app with custom wheels
You can get a complete D36 (8" Ford equiv ) for $500 + but the rarer D44 ( 9" equiv ) only fitted behind the manual trans ( 20% of production ) commands prices typical of above
Not usually a issue in a retro fit app with custom wheels
You can get a complete D36 (8" Ford equiv ) for $500 + but the rarer D44 ( 9" equiv ) only fitted behind the manual trans ( 20% of production ) commands prices typical of above
Not yet measured rim choice to rear fender well. 18mm hopefully is no decision maker.
Thx for that last part. AOD required. D36 it is.
Team Owner
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There are many ways to use the Corvette C4 IRS components in the rear of any application. The primary components you need are the left and right drive components (hubs/bearings/caliper mounts etc.) and the differential component. The rear leaf is generally replaced with a coil-over in the conversions.
If you were interested I have all of the drive components needed and I've a 3.75 ratio D36 that's a new build never been run.
If you're a "polish" type of guy here's the rear components that are needed that have been "polished".
I have a set of control arms and spindles for the front IFS also. I would think that there's likely someone that does a cross-member for the F150 for the IFS. My front is '88+ and I'd think the preferred. The spindles with mine are '91+ and can use the lesser expensive GM front hubs for less expensive maintenance.
I believe I've got everything you need and if you wanted to do an axle ratio of less than 3.75 I've an empty housing that you could work with.
I've PM'd you an email address.
If you were interested I have all of the drive components needed and I've a 3.75 ratio D36 that's a new build never been run.
If you're a "polish" type of guy here's the rear components that are needed that have been "polished".
I have a set of control arms and spindles for the front IFS also. I would think that there's likely someone that does a cross-member for the F150 for the IFS. My front is '88+ and I'd think the preferred. The spindles with mine are '91+ and can use the lesser expensive GM front hubs for less expensive maintenance.
I believe I've got everything you need and if you wanted to do an axle ratio of less than 3.75 I've an empty housing that you could work with.
I've PM'd you an email address.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Sep 14, 2013 at 08:24 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,485
Likes: 566
From: Clearwater Florida
Last edited by C409; Sep 14, 2013 at 11:31 AM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
There are many ways to use the Corvette C4 IRS components in the rear of any application. The primary components you need are the left and right drive components (hubs/bearings/caliper mounts etc.) and the differential component. The rear leaf is generally replaced with a coil-over in the conversions.
If you were interested I have all of the drive components needed and I've a 3.75 ratio D36 that's a new build never been run.
If you're a "polish" type of guy here's the rear components that are needed that have been "polished".
If you were interested I have all of the drive components needed and I've a 3.75 ratio D36 that's a new build never been run.
If you're a "polish" type of guy here's the rear components that are needed that have been "polished".
I've seen your post somewhere & yes that is the plan.
PM me with detail plz!
Thx
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,154
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From: Ft Myers Florida
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,154
Likes: 2
From: Ft Myers Florida
The Dana 36 had an extra bolt in the top middle of the diff cover (bat wing) also the batwing had different shaped holes in the structure.
What year did it come out of and what trans did it have?
What year did it come out of and what trans did it have?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,406
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It's an early model D44 and some say it's the preferred housing to use for builds, others don't have preferences. Does it matter? In your application I'd say NOT!
The early rear suspension and brake package is "shoe in rotor" for an e-brake and parts for the e-brake are more difficult to source. Your parts appear very clean including the shields for the rear e-brake etc.
Your front is early also and I believe you mentioned that is what you wanted so it appears you've done well. Your rear is likely a 3.07 unless it's been tampered with.
Are their ABS sensors attached to the front spindles with a single fastener or are there provisions for ABS? Are there ABS sensors on the rear knuckles? Again these would be attached with a single fastener.
Things that can be verified for you:
1. There will be codes stamped into the springs front and rear. If you check those it's possible to ID the suspension rates for the assemblies if you intend to stay with the "transverse leaf"!
2. On the end cap of the steering rack there will be a 2 letter code on it. Since it's an early unit that could be likely ID'd from that code.
For a FSM an '87 would be the most recent and would cover it all including ABS if it has it. You won't be using BUT when you disassemble the parts ID the position the sensors were removed from. Someone will need them.
Who will be doing the polishing? You or an outside vendor?
The early rear suspension and brake package is "shoe in rotor" for an e-brake and parts for the e-brake are more difficult to source. Your parts appear very clean including the shields for the rear e-brake etc.
Your front is early also and I believe you mentioned that is what you wanted so it appears you've done well. Your rear is likely a 3.07 unless it's been tampered with.
Are their ABS sensors attached to the front spindles with a single fastener or are there provisions for ABS? Are there ABS sensors on the rear knuckles? Again these would be attached with a single fastener.
Things that can be verified for you:
1. There will be codes stamped into the springs front and rear. If you check those it's possible to ID the suspension rates for the assemblies if you intend to stay with the "transverse leaf"!
2. On the end cap of the steering rack there will be a 2 letter code on it. Since it's an early unit that could be likely ID'd from that code.
For a FSM an '87 would be the most recent and would cover it all including ABS if it has it. You won't be using BUT when you disassemble the parts ID the position the sensors were removed from. Someone will need them.
Who will be doing the polishing? You or an outside vendor?
Last edited by WVZR-1; Oct 9, 2013 at 10:47 AM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
It's an early model D44 and some say it's the preferred housing to use for builds, others don't have preferences. Does it matter? In your application I'd say NOT!
^
I'd say you are correct there sir. Just glad it was caught before Flatout kit was ordered.
The early rear suspension and brake package is "shoe in rotor" for an e-brake and parts for the e-brake are more difficult to source. Your parts appear very clean including the shields for the rear e-brake etc.
^
We were all sweating opening the crate then seeing shiny parts showing thru.
Your front is early also and I believe you mentioned that is what you wanted so it appears you've done well. Your rear is likely a 3.07 unless it's been tampered with.
^
Will be breaking into that hopefully this month if polishing goes as planned.
Are their ABS sensors attached to the front spindles with a single fastener or are there provisions for ABS? Are there ABS sensors on the rear knuckles? Again these would be attached with a single fastener.
^
Did not see ABS sensors & that is why '84/'85 was chosen so there were no extra holes in parts.
Things that can be verified for you:
1. There will be codes stamped into the springs front and rear. If you check those it's possible to ID the suspension rates for the assemblies if you intend to stay with the "transverse leaf"!
^
Have not looked into transverse leaf options. Did notice rear leaf had what appeared wood sliver shims added.
Something most likely is past its expectation date. What is needed & ideal for this build is in question.
2. On the end cap of the steering rack there will be a 2 letter code on it. Since it's an early unit that could be likely ID'd from that code.
^
Never did find code on rack. Then again did not look close because my thought was rebuild/replace for undetermined steering column.
For a FSM an '87 would be the most recent and would cover it all including ABS if it has it. You won't be using BUT when you disassemble the parts ID the position the sensors were removed from. Someone will need them.
Who will be doing the polishing? You or an outside vendor?
^
Could not find willing party to polish so my garage will now be polishing workshop 101. I see many long nights & weekends ahead of me.
^
I'd say you are correct there sir. Just glad it was caught before Flatout kit was ordered.
The early rear suspension and brake package is "shoe in rotor" for an e-brake and parts for the e-brake are more difficult to source. Your parts appear very clean including the shields for the rear e-brake etc.
^
We were all sweating opening the crate then seeing shiny parts showing thru.
Your front is early also and I believe you mentioned that is what you wanted so it appears you've done well. Your rear is likely a 3.07 unless it's been tampered with.
^
Will be breaking into that hopefully this month if polishing goes as planned.
Are their ABS sensors attached to the front spindles with a single fastener or are there provisions for ABS? Are there ABS sensors on the rear knuckles? Again these would be attached with a single fastener.
^
Did not see ABS sensors & that is why '84/'85 was chosen so there were no extra holes in parts.
Things that can be verified for you:
1. There will be codes stamped into the springs front and rear. If you check those it's possible to ID the suspension rates for the assemblies if you intend to stay with the "transverse leaf"!
^
Have not looked into transverse leaf options. Did notice rear leaf had what appeared wood sliver shims added.
Something most likely is past its expectation date. What is needed & ideal for this build is in question.
2. On the end cap of the steering rack there will be a 2 letter code on it. Since it's an early unit that could be likely ID'd from that code.
^
Never did find code on rack. Then again did not look close because my thought was rebuild/replace for undetermined steering column.
For a FSM an '87 would be the most recent and would cover it all including ABS if it has it. You won't be using BUT when you disassemble the parts ID the position the sensors were removed from. Someone will need them.
Who will be doing the polishing? You or an outside vendor?
^
Could not find willing party to polish so my garage will now be polishing workshop 101. I see many long nights & weekends ahead of me.
Unanswered questions:
- service manual
- replacing worn parts
- Daily driver 3.07 gear ratio?
- F/R transverse leaf options
Last edited by 56Transport; Oct 9, 2013 at 06:06 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,406
Likes: 2,744
The question asking that you ID the transmission was/is irrelevant.
I asked who was going to do the polishing. That might have something to do with the parts list. I have a parts list that I'd probably consider. You could I guess have the "long list" and modify it as needed BUT the first thing that needs to happen is the cover removed from the differential to confirm the condition of the ring and pinion. If it's sat for many years with no rotation the condition of them could be of maybe some concern.
What are the ratios of your AOD? I believe you mentioned that for the transmission and I don't recall you ever mentioning to me which engine. Which is it?
Last edited by WVZR-1; Oct 9, 2013 at 06:11 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,406
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There will be a code on the end-cap plug on the rack/pinion. As clean as your parts are I wouldn't do anything at all with the rack other than replace the o-ring seals on the left - right lines at the spool valve. Nothing else unless maybe the tie rod boots were bad. Outer tie rods are a "maybe".
I couldn't see the e-brake cables but if the slugs are secure on the ends and there's no cables frayed I'd soak them in ATF/acetone mix (50/50) for a while and after disassembling the calipers and rotors inspect the e-brake hardware. Maybe because it's a fresh build buy new shoes or get yours relined. Hold-down hardware? Clean well and reuse. Hubs? I'd maybe just check them well while everything is apart and maybe reuse. If they're low-mile OE they may be better than what's on the shelves these days. You need two washers so that when you reassemble the knuckles all will be well.
A bearing and seal kit for the D44 (6 bearings, 3 seals, pinion nut and shims for a refresh of it. Depending on the condition of the bushings in the cover I'd maybe leave them alone OR depending on how the D44 will be mounted in the frame you may need to narrow it or just whack the ends of it to "condense it". There's many ways to mount the D44.
You should still have my email I think - drop me an email and I'll cover a parts list for you!
Last edited by WVZR-1; Oct 9, 2013 at 06:31 PM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
My guess in neighborhood of 3500lbs
IThe question asking that you ID the transmission was/is irrelevant.
I asked who was going to do the polishing. That might have something to do with the parts list. I have a parts list that I'd probably consider. You could I guess have the "long list" and modify it as needed BUT the first thing that needs to happen is the cover removed from the differential to confirm the condition of the ring and pinion. If it's sat for many years with no rotation the condition of them could be of maybe some concern.
I asked who was going to do the polishing. That might have something to do with the parts list. I have a parts list that I'd probably consider. You could I guess have the "long list" and modify it as needed BUT the first thing that needs to happen is the cover removed from the differential to confirm the condition of the ring and pinion. If it's sat for many years with no rotation the condition of them could be of maybe some concern.
Now on my 2do punch list
Tyranny is out of '87? Ford Turbo coupe from what I recall. Been about 6yrs since brought it home & still need to figure if it's ideal right now with 302.
Many Thx .. .
Unanswered questions:
- service manual
- replacing worn parts
- Daily driver 3.07 gear ratio?
- F/R transverse leaf options
Last edited by 56Transport; Oct 9, 2013 at 06:30 PM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Unanswered questions:
?service manual:
Is there specific service manual for this suspension to help break down & ordering replacement parts.
?replacing worn parts:
Most likely answers itself in last question but also where is the correct place to order worn out parts.
?Daily driver 3.07 gear ratio:
I don't know gearing ratio's yet. What is ideal gear ratio for daily driver truck.
? F/R transverse leaf options:
You mentioned if I were to keep transverse leafs. If keeping what do I replace them with. If removing any option recommendations.
Many Thx !
?service manual:
Is there specific service manual for this suspension to help break down & ordering replacement parts.
?replacing worn parts:
Most likely answers itself in last question but also where is the correct place to order worn out parts.
?Daily driver 3.07 gear ratio:
I don't know gearing ratio's yet. What is ideal gear ratio for daily driver truck.
? F/R transverse leaf options:
You mentioned if I were to keep transverse leafs. If keeping what do I replace them with. If removing any option recommendations.
Many Thx !
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,406
Likes: 2,744
Unanswered questions:
?service manual:
Is there specific service manual for this suspension to help break down & ordering replacement parts.
?replacing worn parts:
Most likely answers itself in last question but also where is the correct place to order worn out parts.
?Daily driver 3.07 gear ratio:
I don't know gearing ratio's yet. What is ideal gear ratio for daily driver truck.
? F/R transverse leaf options:
You mentioned if I were to keep transverse leafs. If keeping what do I replace them with. If removing any option recommendations.
Many Thx !
?service manual:
Is there specific service manual for this suspension to help break down & ordering replacement parts.
?replacing worn parts:
Most likely answers itself in last question but also where is the correct place to order worn out parts.
?Daily driver 3.07 gear ratio:
I don't know gearing ratio's yet. What is ideal gear ratio for daily driver truck.
? F/R transverse leaf options:
You mentioned if I were to keep transverse leafs. If keeping what do I replace them with. If removing any option recommendations.
Many Thx !
The parts until you generate a list is useless. There's NOT a single source! I don't recall where you're located. That could be relevant.
3600# truck with what tire/wheel combination, the engine (you hinted 302), transmission drive ratios. If you need a ratio higher numerically than the 3.07 you might be better off selling the 3.07 you have and buy a later 3.45 for a couple reasons. The later I believe is a casting that would polish easier and refreshing the 3.45 would cost the same. A 3.07 ratio D44 should sell easily. If you wanted to do gears for your D44 you've got easily available 3.73 and 3.91 - the 3.54 gear set is a hard find. I have an NOS GM 3.54 gear set.
The rear spring can be "softened" considerably but the front being early not as easy. Coil-overs are possible but your choice of the early front means there's considerable modification needed to the cross-member that's not as easy. If the fabricator knew going in and coil-overs were desired it could be done in a single modification. It needs decided before you get very far.