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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 03:14 PM
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Default coutery lights

I have a 85 c4 the courtesy lights stay on all the time. Now I have bought a used timer that is supose to be good. I plug it in and it does the same thing lights stay on even with the door closed unpluged the timer and the lights go out, but then I have no interior lights. both timers do the very same thing.What else can I check, maybe the door jamb switch.I have pulled it out but it looks good it is a very basic switch either on or off if it was bad it looks like it would be eazy tell. They look good what else could it be not sure at this point. Any help would be nice

Last edited by mrcedy; Mar 24, 2014 at 03:48 PM.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 03:22 PM
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Is the headlight switch turned all the way until it locks on the courtesy lights ?
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
Is the headlight switch turned all the way until it locks on the courtesy lights ?
No I checked that first . Thanks
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 05:35 PM
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All the courtesy lights stuck on ?
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
All the courtesy lights stuck on ?
yes
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mrcedy
I have a 85 c4 the courtesy lights stay on all the time. Now I have bought a used timer that is supose to be good. I plug it in and it does the same thing lights stay on even with the door closed unpluged the timer and the lights go out, but then I have no interior lights. both timers do the very same thing.What else can I check, maybe the door jamb switch.I have pulled it out but it looks good it is a very basic switch either on or off if it was bad it looks like it would be eazy tell. They look good what else could it be not sure at this point. Any help would be nice
Check the switch on your glass rear hatch latch, the top of it is plastic and usually breaks off, it should look like a round flat plate ( 1/4 inch diameter ) on a stem, if you don't see this and only see the stem then it's broken and even though your hatch is closed the switch is NOT being pushed down far enough to shut off the courtesy lights.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by GQ-ROD
Check the switch on your glass rear hatch latch, the top of it is plastic and usually breaks off, it should look like a round flat plate ( 1/4 inch diameter ) on a stem, if you don't see this and only see the stem then it's broken and even though your hatch is closed the switch is NOT being pushed down far enough to shut off the courtesy lights.
Ok I will try that I will get back with you in a few. No that did not work.

Last edited by mrcedy; Mar 24, 2014 at 08:00 PM.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by mrcedy
Ok I will try that I will get back with you in a few. No that did not work.
Ok here is how it works with the timer pluged in the interior lights stay lit behind my head on the floor and on the doors with the doors all closed now when I unplug the timer all the lights go out except when i pop the hatch then the lights behind my head come on with or without the doors closed and when i close the hatch those go out.Also when I pop the hatch just the back lights should light right if so that is working as it should.

Last edited by mrcedy; Mar 24, 2014 at 08:11 PM.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mrcedy
Ok here is how it works with the timer pluged in the interior lights stay lit behind my head on the floor and on the doors with the doors all closed now when I unplug the timer all the lights go out except when i pop the hatch then the lights behind my head come on with or without the doors closed and when i close the hatch those go out.Also when I pop the hatch just the back lights should light right if so that is working as it should.
ok, now test the door jamb switches, they may look good but not function correctly.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by GQ-ROD
ok, now test the door jamb switches, they may look good but not function correctly.
Ok I rechecked the door jamb switch the drivers side has three wires. No power to any wire the passenger side has two wires and no power to those too .May it is just the timer that is bad . There is no power to eatheir door jamb swtich and the doors are open and i cheched all wires with test light and no wire on the door jamb switches have any power at all and all my lights are on with the timer pluged in
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by mrcedy
Ok I rechecked the door jamb switch the drivers side has three wires. No power to any wire the passenger side has two wires and no power to those too .May it is just the timer that is bad . There is no power to eatheir door jamb swtich and the doors are open and i cheched all wires with test light and no wire on the door jamb switches have any power at all and all my lights are on with the timer pluged in
That's strange. Could be a short either in the circuit that triggers the timer to activate or a short in the circuit that deactivates the timer. Maybe a relay is getting stuck?
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by GQ-ROD
That's strange. Could be a short either in the circuit that triggers the timer to activate or a short in the circuit that deactivates the timer. Maybe a relay is getting stuck?
What relay
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mrcedy
What relay
On the timer or in the dash?
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mrcedy
On the timer or in the dash?
Not sure, you have to check the fsm and see if there is a relay for the lights that gets triggered by the timer. Sorry i can't be of more help. Electrical bugs are one of those things where you have to trace current through the circuit from beginning of the circuit to the end to find the problem.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 09:29 PM
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If the 85 is like the 84, the switches don't supply 12v to the circuit, they supply a ground.. Check for ground to and from the switches..

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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 10:01 PM
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ok how do i do that
Originally Posted by ccrazor
If the 85 is like the 84, the switches don't supply 12v to the circuit, they supply a ground.. Check for ground to and from the switches..

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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 10:11 PM
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If you have a meter or test light connect one lead to a good 12v supply and probe the switch with the other lead..
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ccrazor
If you have a meter or test light connect one lead to a good 12v supply and probe the switch with the other lead..
oh i did that .I took a hot wire from the bat right to the door jamb switch no spark no power did not effect it in any wayi did this with the timer pluged in and lights on.i tested the wires if i can not get anything at the wires then there is no sence testing the switchbut i tested the switch too with no luck
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 10:35 PM
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If you took a wire from the + of the battery to the switch you should have blown a fuse.. As I stated earlier the switch if like my 84 is connected to ground.. What I suggested was to connect a meter lead to a 12v source and the other lead of the meter to the switch.. Earlier you stated that you checked for power at the switch, how ddid you do that??
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ccrazor
If you took a wire from the + of the battery to the switch you should have blown a fuse.. As I stated earlier the switch if like my 84 is connected to ground.. What I suggested was to connect a meter lead to a 12v source and the other lead of the meter to the switch.. Earlier you stated that you checked for power at the switch, how ddid you do that??
yes I know a fuse should have blown but it had no effect if you want to know how i tested it read back i explain it
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