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Our 94 is in need of an "attitude adjustment" and I'm trying to decide the best way to lower it within our budget. How many of you out there have lowered your C4's and how did you go about it? Photos of the finished product would be especially appreciated.
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
A coupla things to consider.
1. To get it down so it looks right, really reduces suspension travel degrading handling and ride quality.
2. The most shocks don't have the shorter travel length necessary for a dropped C4.
3. Consider only dropping half of what you think you need.
There are Tech Tips on the subject of lowering
IMHO The best overall change is going to coil over shocks.
I cut the rubber pads on the front spring to 1/2 thickness and I re-drilled the holes for the cotter-pins to the lowest possible point on the long bolts that hold the ends of the rear spring. (Longer bolts = lower rear end)
Coilovers do have a minimum shock travel limitation but it is the best way albeit expensive. I've had my car lowered for years using the wedges & longer bolts but my recent upgrade to coilovers is far superior.
I cut the rubber pads on the front spring to 1/2 thickness and I re-drilled the holes for the cotter-pins to the lowest possible point on the long bolts that hold the ends of the rear spring. (Longer bolts = lower rear end)
Pre-coilovers with lowering wedges (although I'd suggest going with above) and longer rear bolts.
I only went to coilovers for autocrossing. Went with the same exact ride-height.
Nice looking C4's in this thread. Coilovers would be my first choice but it's hard to justify $1,500-$2,000 right now. I'm going to look at VB&P's adjustable front spring for the front and longer bolts for the rear.
This is kind of the look what I'm shooting for,my former 90 ZR-1.
Coilovers are the way to go for easy ride height adjustment, you will never look back.
You can remove the shims above the standard front spring but changing the standard composite leaf springs is time consuming.
The rear is easy to lower with longer bolts as other posters have said.
You have a choice of street coil overs or track type if you want double adjustable coilovers.
Adjust the ride height quick and easy using the special tool.
You can remove the shims above the standard front spring but changing the standard composite leaf springs is time consuming.
For those of you who have done this,how much drop did you see? I would like to cut these gaps in half,if possible,by removing both front shims and going with longer bolts in the rear.
Coilovers just aren't in the budget.
Just remove the spring shims- don't cut the bushing to install lowering wedges. if you insist with the lowereing wedge kit, at least put the shim back in so it isn't slammed.
My 96 has the Z51 suspension setup and I don't know if they are any lower than stock or not, but mine always had a bit of nose down stance. I put longer bolts in the rear spring hangers and it brought the car down to a more level look. Although it didn't change the fender to tire clearance at all in the front, lowering the rear seemed to pivot the spoiler at the front up just a bit so I don't scrape the driveway anymore.
Just remove the spring shims- don't cut the bushing to install lowering wedges. if you insist with the lowering wedge kit, at least put the shim back in so it isn't slammed.
I'm trying to avoid having to remove the spring,Mike. Don't want to cut the bushing,either. Man,that's a nasty job doing that.
Not true.Heres my 91 Z with the VB&P adjustable front spring and longer rear bolts.Total cost back in 2008 was less than $600.Clint,this is the setup you want,beats $2000+ for coil overs...............I miss those GS wheels.[/IMG][IMG][/IMG]