i have a 1985 corvette dose anyone know how to bypass vats on this key has no pod in it thats the way i got the car can some one help

 

If you have a key that rotates the cylinder and you actually have a VATS issue you could get someone with a VATS Interrogator to determine the resistance by trial and error. It sometimes be a rather stressful experience. Your key only has a hole where the resistor was or it's a brass work key that came with the cylinder.

 

the car starts up and runs for 3 sec and then it turns the the injectors off if i spray starter fluid it will stay on

 

well it is not a vats problem if it is doing that

 

and unless im mistaken Vats did not start till 1986 someone correct me if Im wrong on that

 

Your car does not have VATS -- that started in 1986.

Check for error codes:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1574918379-post18.html
http://corvettephotographs.com/c4vettes/codes.htm

What they mean:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1576116036-post35.html

I suggest you get a fuel pressure gauge and then check the pressure under the following conditions:
1 - Turn on ignition -- do not start the engine.
2 - Start engine and let it idle.
3 - Turn off engine and check fuel pressure after 15 minutes.

Obviously you can't do #2 if the engine won't start, but do #1 and #3 and let us know what happens.

But wait, there's more...

When you first turn on the ignition the ECM turns on the fuel pump by turning on the fuel pump relay for 2 seconds. This pressurizes the fuel rails in preparation for starting the engine. The ECM turns off the fuel pump after 2 seconds so that the fuel pump won't run continuously if the ignition is turned on but the engine is not started.

The ECM again turns on the fuel pump when it sees DRPs (Distributor Reference Pulses) from the ignition module inside the distributor. From your description it appears that this is not happening.

The ECM uses the DRPs to synchronize the firing of the injectors to the rotation of the engine, whether cranking or running.

It appears that your engine is running on the fuel from the cold start injector but the injectors are never being fired (missing DRPs from ignition module to ECM -- or the ECM itself could be bad). You can have your ignition module tested at most auto parts stores. It is connected to the ECM through a 4 wire harness that comes out of the back of the distributor. Note that the ignition module gets very hot and needs to have THERMAL (NOT dielectric) grease under it.

One more thing... The cold start thermo switch times out after 8 seconds of cranking (it's turned on by the ignition switch in the CRANK position). That means that the engine probably won't fire at all after the first couple of tries.

 

i do have a security light that stays on thou not sure why i have at a school and they r looking at it

 

ok thex i let the school that is looking at it know thx for the help

 

I have a different VATS question. I measured the resistance of my VATS key (the only one of 3 keys that still has a working resistor). Then I found online somewhere a table for how to translate the resistance to a VATS code. Then I ordered a new blank VATS key from Ecklers or somewhere. I now have the key, but need to get it cut.

Where's a good place to get a blank VATS key cut? It's getting hard to find stores where you can still hand a key to an actual human to cut it for you.

 

I usually go into true value hardware, they cut the key manually and charge me 3-4 bucks.

 

if u look on youtube u can bypass the vats on 86 to 90 something get a ohm meeter on it and test the ohms and the highest number will be ur value then under the dash there is a orange wire u put the resister on then u do not need the pod key any more or they sell a bypass for the 86 to 90 something

 

 

You are not by passing Vats even thou that is the pouplar thinking, You are only elimiting the key part of it. There are quite a few other things that make vats work. so you could still have vats problems even by installing the resister part. Vats is not as big of a problem as you are lead to belive get the right key cut and you will be fine

 

The VATS system is connected to the SECURITY light in 1990 and later cars.

The earlier cars have the SECURITY light connected to the UTD (Universal Theft Deterrent) system -- the one operated by the door locks. It works like this:

SECURITY light flashing -- door is open, system is NOT armed.
SECURITY light on solid -- door is open, system IS armed.
SECURITY light is off -- door is closed or ignition is turned on.

 

can u bypass this system

 

Yes, but why would you want to? It honks the horn and disables the starter. Nothing else.

If the horn is not honking and the starter is working then there is no need to bypass it.

 

How does that light work on pre-90 cars when the SECURITY light comes on solid while driving the car? Had the key bypassed and VATS turned off in the tune. And sometimes the SECURITY light would come on anyways and the car wouldn't turn over i.e. VATS. So bypassed the Starter Enable Relay to remove the final VATS obstacle. But the SECURITY light coming on solid at random times is a little annoying even coming on after the car is already running.

 

You need to be doing diagnostics for the UTD system. Your FSM will give you the proper diagnostics for he system, there's been a VATS question asked for a "no VATS car and comments for both an early and late VATS so there's no need changing the subject here again.

I tried to get the OP to commit to what his key was to see if maybe he just had an incorrect cylinder installed in the column, a replacement column and he responded correctly mentioning that he had a crank, runs and quits which meant that the key even if it were a VATS with "NO POD" (his description) wasn't important because he actually has a NO VATS '85 car. OP mentioned VATS problem, at the time is his car an '85 really or what? Runs and quits answered the question.

The '84 - '89 "Forced Entry Module" is the same so anyone with experience with the system for any of those years should be able to help. Maybe your own thread and mention "Forced Entry" or UTD but no mention VATS.

I would guess the first thing I'd check for is a bad door theft arming switch. If an arming switch were bad it would seem to likely give you the security light. Those are '84 - '87 only one style. The '88 & '89 are different. It would be a good "stand alone" thread I'd think. You're likely not alone.

 

the reason i want to bypass it is sometimes it will not let me turn it over and i have to disconnect the battery and its a pain so can u let me know how to get rid of it please

 

So which problem do you ACTUALLY have
The one where it won't crank over (could be related to the security system )
or one where is won't fire up without spraying fluid ?????

Two completely different unrelated problems.