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I would not use a sealant on manifold bolts. You should be using anti-seize on the bolt threads because the bolts are steel and your threading them into aluminum. You don't want them to seize in the aluminum. Anything else and it is a good way to set yourself up for the purchase of new heads.....
If your not having a problem don't sweat it. If you are having a problem you could do 2 things. 1. use the proper thread locker. 2. Carefully select a thread where the nut (or bolt) is just seating and deform it. This will cause an interference fit but not bugger up all the other threads on the stud/nut/bolt. Just gotta be careful to mash just enough so that the last 1/2turn or so has resistance.
I'm not aware that the factory used any kind of thread locker on exhaust manifold hardware. I would check the data sheets on the sealant to see what is the max working temperature. I would guess, that hardware might see 300 degrees or so. if there is an issue with exhaust manifold bolts or header bolts, look into locking header hardware similar to -
Don't get carried away with it. A "swipe" down one side of the bolt is sufficient. I know a fellow who would insist on "clean and dry" and then argue that if they intended there to be sealant of any type used or anti-seize it would be mentioned in the FSM.
Don't get carried away with it. A "swipe" down one side of the bolt is sufficient. I know a fellow who would insist on "clean and dry" and then argue that if they intended there to be sealant of any type used or anti-seize it would be mentioned in the FSM.
I would think I'd avoid copper based product!
Same can be said for the spark plugs as well. A swipe along one side of the threads is good...AND important to be there too.
Long as we're talking spark plugs and aluminum heads, removing and installing plugs should only be done with the engine cool or serious thread damage can occur. Just sayin...