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No peddle "Pumping" required, all air is drawn to the source of Vacuum.
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I just installed a new master cylinder and used my 20 year old mighty vac. Cant beat it if you do the job by yourself. No need to pump the pedal. There are more ways and everybody has there own preference, just start with the furthest caliper from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest caliper. Passenger rear, drivers rear, passenger front then drivers front, keep an eye on the master cylinder and don't let it run dry.
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your way to the closest caliper. Passenger rear, drivers rear, passenger front then drivers front,.
This has never made any sense. There is not logical reason to follow this procedure, that I can fathom. The system doesn't care which you bleed first of if you bleed them all simultaneously.
Like i said in my post "everybody has there own preference", this works for me. When i had a lifted jeep, i used the gravity bleeding procedure and would open all the bleeder screws until the fluid ran clear. Worked great also.
Copy. I totally "get" a personal preference. The way it is frequently typed however, and in the case of your post, it's worded such that it is important or non-negotiable step in the process. I haven't found that to be the case, nor can I rationalize why it would matter. Thanks for the reply!
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
This has never made any sense. There is not logical reason to follow this procedure, that I can fathom. The system doesn't care which you bleed first of if you bleed them all simultaneously.
The 86 FSM has a prescribed bleeding sequence that defy's reason.
I'll look it up but it has to do with the ABS.
Most have ignored this sequence without problems.
Or this board would be plagued with threads...
The 86 FSM has a prescribed bleeding sequence that defy's reason.
I'll look it up but it has to do with the ABS.
Most have ignored this sequence without problems. Or this board would be plagued with threads...
I replaced all four bleeder screws with the Earl's Solo Bleeds!...
Just open the bleeder screw and pump the brake pedal about 5 times, making sure the master cylinder is topped off with clean fluid. No need to open and close the bleeder screw. Bleed one caliper at a time.
EASIEST, way I've ever used!!!...
Best $20 I've ever spent. Part #280022ERL available anywhere.
I have these on my car as well. Work great and make it a one-person job.
Like i said in my post "everybody has there own preference", this works for me. When i had a lifted jeep, i used the gravity bleeding procedure and would open all the bleeder screws until the fluid ran clear. Worked great also.
That is exactly how i have done it on my cars (back in the day) Its called gravity.
One clarification; you do not pump the brakes with the bleeder open. Doing this would suck air right back into the system. You pump and hold, THEN open the bleeder. Then when the pedal drops to the floor, the pedal operator signals you to close the screw.
I have not done brakes like this in years, I use a vacuum bleeder. Cheap and oh so easy.
And, I use a kit I got from MidAmerica which amounts to a quart bottle with a shut-off valve that clamps to the open master cylinder. This way the reservoir remains full of fresh fluid as I pump the bleeder valve with a Mitivac. It's a one-person job, and quick too!
The 86 FSM has a prescribed bleeding sequence that defy's reason.
I'll look it up but it has to do with the ABS.
Most have ignored this sequence without problems.
Or this board would be plagued with threads...
I just bench bled a new master cylinder for my '86 and ready to bleed the lines. I have read elsewhere that the sequence for '86 and later with ABS should be right front, left front, right rear, left rear. This would make sense since the location of the ABS unit is behind the drivers seat making the right front the furthest distance. My FSM specifically states doing the rears first. I guess it doesn't really matter?