Rear Diff Question
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Pro
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Sabin MN
Rear Diff Question
Wanting to swap out the 2.59's and found a Dana 36 3.07 rear differential and batwing for cheap. Donor car is a 1995 with 116,000 miles. What say you CFGD? Does the mileage scare you?
Stay Frosty!
Stephen
Stay Frosty!
Stephen
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I don't know that there's a particular reason to be concerned about the miles but I'd seize the opportunity to check it very close. If it's severely grimed up maybe it's had leaking seals, a quick lance should confirm this if it's an issue.
CHEAP isn't always a "bargain"!
A simple calibration in the PCM corrects the speedometer/odometer issue.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Dec 12, 2014 at 07:22 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: San Antonio Texas
If it needs those little axle shafts replaced, the cost goes up!
Before you take it, check the end play on both sides. Grab the U-joint flange and give them a push/pull wiggle to see if there is any slack. I think the Max allowable is about .004" so you shouldn't be able to slide them in and out hardly at all. If either one or both slide 1/8th of an inch or more, the shafts are worn and could have shed iron dust into the rest of the moving parts as well.
I couldn't figure out why only one shaft was worn on mine till I put new tires on and the guy at the tire dealer showed me the Rt side wheel had a slight wobble. It was causing the axle to beat against the cross shaft and wore the end down past the wear limit.
Before you take it, check the end play on both sides. Grab the U-joint flange and give them a push/pull wiggle to see if there is any slack. I think the Max allowable is about .004" so you shouldn't be able to slide them in and out hardly at all. If either one or both slide 1/8th of an inch or more, the shafts are worn and could have shed iron dust into the rest of the moving parts as well.
I couldn't figure out why only one shaft was worn on mine till I put new tires on and the guy at the tire dealer showed me the Rt side wheel had a slight wobble. It was causing the axle to beat against the cross shaft and wore the end down past the wear limit.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
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If it needs those little axle shafts replaced, the cost goes up!
Before you take it, check the end play on both sides. Grab the U-joint flange and give them a push/pull wiggle to see if there is any slack. I think the Max allowable is about .004" so you shouldn't be able to slide them in and out hardly at all. If either one or both slide 1/8th of an inch or more, the shafts are worn and could have shed iron dust into the rest of the moving parts as well.
I couldn't figure out why only one shaft was worn on mine till I put new tires on and the guy at the tire dealer showed me the Rt side wheel had a slight wobble. It was causing the axle to beat against the cross shaft and wore the end down past the wear limit.
Before you take it, check the end play on both sides. Grab the U-joint flange and give them a push/pull wiggle to see if there is any slack. I think the Max allowable is about .004" so you shouldn't be able to slide them in and out hardly at all. If either one or both slide 1/8th of an inch or more, the shafts are worn and could have shed iron dust into the rest of the moving parts as well.
I couldn't figure out why only one shaft was worn on mine till I put new tires on and the guy at the tire dealer showed me the Rt side wheel had a slight wobble. It was causing the axle to beat against the cross shaft and wore the end down past the wear limit.
should not slip 70lbs or less. Dana 36 should be similar.
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Take it to a diffential shop and get it rebuilt. This will eliminate any surprises. It could be in the$400-$600 range, but it will be worth it. I did this to my 95 about a year ago. They reused only the gears, all other parts are new.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Sabin MN
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