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Just snapped the rear shock mounting plate bolt on my 96 coupe.(New torque wrench,not sure it is defective, probably I'm defective). The bolt
is not sticking out. Suggestions (other than suicide) to fix this?
I can't visualize exactly where you are describing, but I have had great success with an ez out. Drill out the center of the broken bolt and use the ez out to remove the broken piece. A little heat from the blue wrench never hurts either.
The bolt went into the aluminum lower control arm I'm assuming? If the bolt is steel or iron, you can take a nut and weld in the center of the nut. Then use a ratchet to remove the bolt.
If this bolt is aluminum, it will not work, if this bolt goes into a steel or iron component, it will not work either.
Is it one of the two bolts that go into the frame?
YES and there is nothing to grab on and not room for my drill. I am more than willing to buy the tools necessary to do this, but I'm not sure what to get. I can't even make a center starter hole in the bolt.
I don't have the mechanic ability to mess with anything else back there.
I'm not sure what to tell you to do. If you try and drill it out be careful because it will be a PITA if you have to repair the frame.
After careful consideration and some consultations I'm bringing my baby
to a body shop who specializes in Corvettes.
This is not a job for the backyard mechanic(me) too risky if not done right there could be frame work needed.
Thanks to all for your help. One thing I did learn is to ignore the torque settings listed in the repair manuals.
After careful consideration and some consultations I'm bringing my baby to a body shop who specializes in Corvettes. This is not a job for the backyard mechanic(me) too risky if not done right there could be frame work needed. Thanks to all for your help. One thing I did learn is to ignore the torque settings listed in the repair manuals.
I think that you've made the right choice. Sucks but you won't be worrying about your repair every time you drive it.
The car will be done sometime this week. They are going to try and remove the busted bolts If that doesn't work I'm not sure. I prefer to see if they can cut the heads off two bolts and weld the bolts on to the frame so the bracket can be put back with locking nuts.This if possible should make future shock simpler.I hope they can fix it back to normal.
Thanks for the interest.
I'm sorry I didnt see this sooner. Same thing happened to me last fall. The Haynes manual has the wrong torque value for that bolt. They say about 60 ft lbs, and the FSM has 35. When I was torquing it, it felt wrong, but I persevered and broke off the bolt in the frame- flush with the frame surface.
Here's what i did to recover.
I took an angle grinder and ground a slot in the frame and the bolt. I used Kroil to lubricate the threads and a screwdriver to unscrew it out. I'm not proud of the technique, but i knew of no other way to get it out. From now on, I'm verifying all torque values with the FSM.
I hope you got your problem solved by the body shop. But to anybody else, my way worked.
I'm sorry I didnt see this sooner. Same thing happened to me last fall. The Haynes manual has the wrong torque value for that bolt. They say about 60 ft lbs, and the FSM has 35. When I was torquing it, it felt wrong, but I persevered and broke off the bolt in the frame- flush with the frame surface.
Here's what i did to recover.
I took an angle grinder and ground a slot in the frame and the bolt. I used Kroil to lubricate the threads and a screwdriver to unscrew it out. I'm not proud of the technique, but i knew of no other way to get it out. From now on, I'm verifying all torque values with the FSM.
I hope you got your problem solved by the body shop. But to anybody else, my way worked.
Good luck!
Thanks for the reply. Threw the Haynes in the garbage. The bolts are out and my baby is back to normal
Following Haynes I over torqued. Stopped before they broke but it started to strip a little and now wont hold 19 lbs. Any suggestions? Will new bolts work or is weld nut toasted?