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Odd axle alignment

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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 02:12 PM
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Default Odd axle alignment

Having fitted a set of C5 5-spokes to my '93 vert, I was a little disappointed that they sit so far inside the wheelarches. Starting to investigate buying a pair of spacers, I measured up to see how wide to go. on doing this, I realised that one side had more gap than the other!! I've checked the wheels, and they are identical, so it's not caused by them. I had the alignment checked and adjusted for the whole car, and it wasn't far out. It looks like either the rear end is not central, or the body is not straight on the chassis.
Am I missing something, or being stupid??? Anyone any ideas?
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 04:20 PM
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You are OK, but the C4 bodies often sit off to one side by up to about 1/2". Poor fitment from the factory.
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by maddogwyatt
Having fitted a set of C5 5-spokes to my '93 vert, I was a little disappointed that they sit so far inside the wheelarches. Starting to investigate buying a pair of spacers, I measured up to see how wide to go. on doing this, I realised that one side had more gap than the other!! I've checked the wheels, and they are identical, so it's not caused by them. I had the alignment checked and adjusted for the whole car, and it wasn't far out. It looks like either the rear end is not central, or the body is not straight on the chassis.
Am I missing something, or being stupid??? Anyone any ideas?
Hi

On my car it was bad rubber bushes on the batwing where it bolts to the body, also check your spindle nut is tight on both sides.
The wheel position is directly related to diff via universal joints, the half shafts and the spindle to the hub bearing.
Worn universal joints or spindle nut not torqued correctly with wheels of the ground can cause some of these issues.

Just incase you do not know, the Batwing is what the diff centre is bolted to.
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by gerardvg
Hi

On my car it was bad rubber bushes on the batwing where it bolts to the body, also check your spindle nut is tight on both sides.
The wheel position is directly related to diff via universal joints, the half shafts and the spindle to the hub bearing.
Worn universal joints or spindle nut not torqued correctly with wheels of the ground can cause some of these issues.

Just incase you do not know, the Batwing is what the diff centre is bolted to.
Sorry to be so long getting back. Thanks for your ideas (both of you). I've just checked the difference in wheel-to-arch gaps, twice (I checked once with the car parked one way, they ran it up the road and back, and parked it in the same spot the other way round, in case the camber of the road had any effect, and checked again). The difference is 1/2 inch - less than it looked to the eye, so may have been like it from the factory. I will check all your ideas. I'd already thought of the batwing bushes ( i'll try checking by pushing the body sideways and checking for movement. I've polybushed the car, but not done that yet. Many thanks - I'd started to worry about past accidents etc!!

Last edited by maddogwyatt; Mar 18, 2015 at 09:57 AM.
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by maddogwyatt
Sorry to be so long getting back. Thanks for your ideas (both of you). I've just checked the difference in wheel-to-arch gaps, twice (I checked once with the car parked one way, they ran it up the road and back, and parked it in the same spot the other way round, in case the camber of the road had any effect, and checked again). The difference is 1/2 inch - less than it looked to the eye, so may have been like it from the factory. I will check all your ideas. I'd already thought of the batwing bushes ( i'll try checking by pushing the body sideways and checking for movement. I've polybushed the car, but not done that yet. Many thanks - I'd started to worry about past accidents etc!!
I've had to "show people" so what I will generally do is drop a plumb-bob/string from each body wheelhouse down the center axle line and measure from the string to the tire side wall. On the rear I will generally hang two so that you can walk side to side and actually "see" the difference.

Most cars aren't "matching side to side", if you have one that is you can feel blessed. It's certainly normally overlooked until a tire/wheel package is added that moves the tire/wheel fitment more outboard.
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 01:55 PM
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Most cars aren't "matching side to side", if you have one that is you can feel blessed. It's certainly normally overlooked until a tire/wheel package is added that moves the tire/wheel fitment more outboard.[/QUOTE]

Exactly. I noticed it when eyeing up for wheel spacers to counter the deeper offset of the C5 wheels. Maybe I need one 1 inch one, and one 1 1/2inch?!!
I'm wondering whether to just fit a pair of 295's. That would help fill the arches, and look better from behind.
By the way, I've replaced the missing body moulding (see photo). Very hard to find here in the UK!!

Last edited by maddogwyatt; Mar 18, 2015 at 02:07 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by maddogwyatt
By the way, I've replaced the missing body moulding (see photo). Very hard to find here in the UK!!
That molding is a difficult find anywhere. One for a ZR-1 is a very difficult find. I had never noticed the side front "turn lamps" on your car before. Your car would look real good with the '94 - '96 front lamps that were actually put on the cars for export. Your rears are favorites of mine.

Last edited by WVZR-1; Mar 18, 2015 at 03:20 PM.
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Old Mar 19, 2015 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
That molding is a difficult find anywhere. One for a ZR-1 is a very difficult find. I had never noticed the side front "turn lamps" on your car before. Your car would look real good with the '94 - '96 front lamps that were actually put on the cars for export. Your rears are favorites of mine.
I like the rear turn signals too. I originally thought the PO did them. I had to modify the front sidelights to pass m.o.t (Ministry of Transport annual check) here. They have to be white, not yellow. The car was originally exported to Japan, so had left-hand dipping lights (that were terrible sealed-beam things). I replaced them with UK spec H4 halogen lamps with a sidelight built in. I wired 2 little looms from the original feeds, carefully attached to the headlamps with just enough slack to allow for rotation. Bingo! Legal side-lights, and much better (brighter and better focused) headlights.
I'll have a look at the '94-'96 sidelights. I already have a pair of US style door mirrors, painted, and ready to fit. The export-spec ones are hideous!!






Export spec mirror<br/>

Nice bright lights

Last edited by maddogwyatt; Mar 19, 2015 at 02:37 PM.
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 11:01 PM
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Default Export Mirror Isolator/Gaskets

If and when you change out your export mirrors to the US spec streamlined ones, I'd sure like to make an offer on the mounting gaskets. It seems the "Rolls Royce" style mirrors are not supported any longer and I haven't been able to find a NOS gasket.
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 1984Z51auto
If and when you change out your export mirrors to the US spec streamlined ones, I'd sure like to make an offer on the mounting gaskets. It seems the "Rolls Royce" style mirrors are not supported any longer and I haven't been able to find a NOS gasket.
OK, I'll make a note in my "Corvette Parts etc" file. Someone told me they are for a Rolls Camargue, but I doubt this is true - the quality of construction doesn't seem high enough. Do you know more than me?
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