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PKE programming help needed

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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 08:40 PM
  #21  
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New remote with screws.

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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 08:40 PM
  #22  
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Toms03Z
The car is a 96 C4 and I can't seem to get the fobs programmed. I have 2 new fobs and batteries that I bought from the Chevy dealer.

The method I tried is with the key on, push the odometer button twice and then within 5 seconds, press and hold the fuel info button until the PKE light is illuminated constantly. Then turned the key off until the PKE light begins to flash.

Now when I go to get the fob and bring it into range, the PKE light won't come on solid. It just keeps flashing. I tried this method with both fobs and can't get either to program. Can anyone give me any tips if I'm doing something wrong? Thanks
If you are still not having any success I would suggest an email to this person.... c4fob@yahoo.com

Her name is Bree(I think)....she is very well informed and was some kind of tech for gm back when these types of fobs were developed I think. Anyway, she repairs and rebuilds them. I just sent her both of mine to fix for me as they are in need of repair. I think she is quite reasonable especially for you americans!!! I live in Canada and it is 30% exchange right now approx. but still I am getting both repaired 100% basically for the cost of 1 replacement.

Russell

Last edited by BigMac2395; Apr 15, 2015 at 12:45 AM.
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 08:54 PM
  #24  
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And with a little finger nail polish touch up.

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Old Apr 15, 2015 | 01:57 PM
  #25  
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Any update? Did you get it to work???
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Old Apr 15, 2015 | 02:08 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Gunho
Never saw that backing on a C-4 Key Fob

Originally Posted by Gunho
And with a little finger nail polish touch up.

Maybe the nail polish is causing the issue. My suggestion would be to borrow a working C-4 Key Fob from someone and see if it responds to programming. If so, you know that the issue is not the DERM and your remote. If you lived in the Baltimore area, I would lend you my spare.
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Old Apr 15, 2015 | 02:30 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by MARKRUBYRED
Never saw that backing on a C-4 Key Fob



Maybe the nail polish is causing the issue. My suggestion would be to borrow a working C-4 Key Fob from someone and see if it responds to programming. If so, you know that the issue is not the DERM and your remote. If you lived in the Baltimore area, I would lend you my spare.
Mine with the nail polish works fine. Curious as to wether he got his system programmed though...
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Old Apr 15, 2015 | 04:37 PM
  #28  
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Default Your right Mark

Originally Posted by markKlein
The design with screws is a little newer. That fob did not come with your car originally.
I looked up in the origonal owners records and he did replace the fob. At some point they changed to the 2 screws holding it together.
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Old Apr 15, 2015 | 06:50 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Richard Raichert
I looked up in the origonal owners records and he did replace the fob. At some point they changed to the 2 screws holding it together.
My '96 still has the original FOB's, and neither of them have screws.
They just snap together.
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Old Apr 15, 2015 | 07:40 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Gunho
Mine with the nail polish works fine. Curious as to wether he got his system programmed though...
Sorry about that......Thought your great pic's were from the OP.
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Old Apr 15, 2015 | 08:18 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by RollaMo-LT4
My '96 still has the original FOB's, and neither of them have screws.
They just snap together.
Mine still have the snaps as well. although they are broken now. I have sent them away to get repaired and they will be returned to me with screws machined into them now.

Russell
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Old Apr 18, 2015 | 07:17 AM
  #32  
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This is so frustrating. I replaced the batteries again and checked them with a volt meter to make sure they are good. I installed them both with the + facing up (when I take out the screws and cover, the + is facing me)

The PKE light still will not go steady no matter what sequence I try, door open or closed. And I'm shaking the fob as I approach the car.

What are the chances that the 2 brand new fobs I bought from the Chevy dealer are defective? I know the odds would be very slim. They were both sealed up and you could see they were in fact new and not repackaged.
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Old Apr 18, 2015 | 08:07 AM
  #33  
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EDIT * I reread your entire post and you seem to be using the procedure.

Please verify this is the procedure you are using.

The security light should not stay on solid unless you have not completed all required steps.

To match transmitters to your vehicle:
1. Move all transmitters out of range.
2. Turn the ignition key on.
3. Push TRIP ODO on the Driver Information Center
twice.
4. Within five seconds, press and hold FUEL INFO
until the PASSIVE KEYLESS ENTRY light
comes on.
5. Turn the ignition off, but leave the key in the
ignition. The PASSIVE KEYLESS ENTRY light
should begin to flash to show the system is in
programming mode.
6. Bring one transmitter into range. The light will stop
flashing and stay on to show that the code is stored.
7. Move the transmitter out of range. The light should
start flashing again.
8. Repeat Steps 6 and 7 with each additional

Note: The programming mode will shut off if
transmitter.
- You don’t program any transmitters for two minutes.
- You take the key out of the ignition or turn the
ignition on.
- You have programmed three transmitters.

Battery Replacement
Under normal use, the battery in your key chain
transmitter should last about 18 months.
You can tell the battery is weak if the transmitter won’t
work at the normal range in any location. If you have to
get close to your vehicle before the transmitter works,
it’s probably time to change the battery.

1. Insert a screwdriver into the slot on the back of the
transmitter and gently pry apart the front and back.
2. Gently pry the battery out of the transmitter using the
screwdriver.
3. Put the new battery in the transmitter, positive (+) side up.
Use a Duracell@ battery, type DL2450, or equivalent.
4. Put the two halves back together. Make sure the
halves are together tightly so water won’t get in.
5. Test the transmitter.

Last edited by kg4fku; Apr 18, 2015 at 08:12 AM.
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Old Apr 18, 2015 | 09:35 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Toms03Z
This is so frustrating. I replaced the batteries again and checked them with a volt meter to make sure they are good. I installed them both with the + facing up (when I take out the screws and cover, the + is facing me)

The PKE light still will not go steady no matter what sequence I try, door open or closed. And I'm shaking the fob as I approach the car.

What are the chances that the 2 brand new fobs I bought from the Chevy dealer are defective? I know the odds would be very slim. They were both sealed up and you could see they were in fact new and not repackaged.
Hi Toms, sorry we don't have better advice for you, sounds like you might need to get a FSM and start step by step diagnostics.

I do have one question though, have you followed Gunho's example and tried going through all of the steps and pretending like the light goes steady? Sounds like when he did it the programming worked.

Good luck
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Old Apr 18, 2015 | 05:40 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Toms03Z
The car is a 96 C4 and I can't seem to get the fobs programmed. I have 2 new fobs and batteries that I bought from the Chevy dealer.

The method I tried is with the key on, push the odometer button twice and then within 5 seconds, press and hold the fuel info button until the PKE light is illuminated constantly. Then turned the key off until the PKE light begins to flash.

Now when I go to get the fob and bring it into range, the PKE light won't come on solid. It just keeps flashing. I tried this method with both fobs and can't get either to program. Can anyone give me any tips if I'm doing something wrong? Thanks
I am going to try again to figure this out.

First, please fully cycle the door lock with the key and ensure when you remove the key that the lock cylinder is vertical and the car is unlocked.

Second, complete the FOB pairing procedure. Please ensure the key remains in the steering column ignition switch when you turn it to the off position.

Third, wait for at least one minute or until the PKE light flashes. If the PKE light goes out or does not flash after three minutes, the pairing process failed and has reset.

The ignition key has to be left in the ignition switch.

Sometimes the PKE light takes a while to start blinking. It is not instant.

If this fails this time let me know.
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Old Apr 18, 2015 | 06:09 PM
  #36  
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OK. I dug out the FSM on this one.

Section 9K-3.

While the system is waiting for a transmitter to program, the PKE lamp will flash the number of the transmitter to be programed (flash once for the first transmitter, twice for the second and so on). When a transmitter is within range a code is stored, the lamp will be illuminated continuously as long as that transmitter remains within reception range. When a transmitter which has already been programmed is brought back into range, the lamp will remain flashing until a new transmitter is brought into range. Once the programming of three codes has been completed, and the third transmitter is outside reception range, the lamp will not be illuminated again.
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Old Apr 18, 2015 | 06:59 PM
  #37  
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So after reading the entire section on PKE in the FSM I found one item that is an easy fix and hasn't been mentioned here.

Is you radio on when you are attempting to pair the FOBs?

FSM says to make sure the radio is OFF as it can interfere with the programing procedure.

I would make sure anything else in the car is off as well just to make sure.
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Old May 3, 2015 | 09:13 AM
  #38  
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*Update*

So I finally end up taking the car to dealer. They couldn't get the remotes to program either and concluded that the new remotes I purchased are defective.

They replaced them both under warranty and programmed them free of charge. Thanks to a good dealer and they will get all my future business.
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Old May 3, 2015 | 09:15 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Toms03Z
*Update*

So I finally end up taking the car to dealer. They couldn't get the remotes to program either and concluded that the new remotes I purchased are defective.

They replaced them both under warranty and programmed them free of charge. Thanks to a good dealer and they will get all my future business.
That is quality service from a dealership.
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Old May 3, 2015 | 03:32 PM
  #40  
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Default Glad you posted an update!

Originally Posted by Toms03Z
*Update*

So I finally end up taking the car to dealer. They couldn't get the remotes to program either and concluded that the new remotes I purchased are defective.

They replaced them both under warranty and programmed them free of charge. Thanks to a good dealer and they will get all my future business.
I think you had a lot of us scratching our head trying to help you figure this one out. Now that you have the fobs working you can turn them off auto so they don't drive you nuts!
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