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Battary/Volt Indicator Question

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Old May 9, 2015 | 03:26 PM
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Default Battary/Volt Indicator Question

My first question is about the volt indicator on my 85. I always thought this gage told you the voltage in the battery. However, after a week of sitting, before starting, my meter will show 11 volts. After starting it jumps to 14 volts. What is the principle about this?
Second question: after driving the car for, say about, 10 miles the volt gage is still showing about 13.2 volts. Why is this. The battery is an AC Delco and about 3 years old and this condition has remained the same since new. I use a battery tender if I know I'm not going to drive the car for a week as the after market alarm draws a lot of Amps.
Thanks,
JW

Last edited by J W Drew; May 9, 2015 at 04:17 PM. Reason: Additional wording
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Old May 9, 2015 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by J W Drew
My first question is about the volt indicator. I always thought this gage told you the voltage in the battery. However, after a week of sitting, before starting, my meter will show 11 volts. After starting it jumps to 14 volts. What is the principle about this?
Second question: after driving the car for, say about, 10 miles the volt gage is still showing about 13.2 volts. Why is this. The battery is an AC Delco and about 3 years old and this condition has remained the same since new. I use a battery tender if I know I'm not going to drive the car for a week as the after market alarm draws a lot of Amps.
Thanks,
JW
11volts from a 12 volt battery sounds like batterys going or your meter
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Old May 9, 2015 | 06:16 PM
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With the ignition ON and the engine not running, it's typical to see something like 11+ volts. The ignition switch powers up a number of systems like the radio, ECM, fuel pump, and other electronic equipment. That puts a drain on the battery.

A fully charged battery with no load on it would show something like 12.6 to 12.8 volts using a voltmeter. Once the engine starts, the alternator is charging the battery and a display of 14.1 to 14.3 volts is fine. As the battery gets back to a full charge, the regulator drops the alternator output so the battery doesn't get overcharged. 13.2 to 13.7 volts is a good range.

It's possible that the battery may have a dead cell or not holding a charge for some reason. You may want to take the car to a reputable shop to have the battery and charging system checked out. They will do a "load test" on the battery to see if it's actually holding a charge.

How do you know that the alarm system draws a lot of amps?? Do you know what that draw is?
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Old May 9, 2015 | 06:45 PM
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Thanks cruiser. You answered all of my questions. As far as the alarm draw, I only say that because of some of the posts I have seen, mentioning that after market alarm systems, draw a lot of amps. Based on your comments of the voltage I am seeing, it appears I am operating within parameters. I did have my mechanic check for a draw without any systems functioning and there was none. However did not check with the alarm activated. Also we have not done a load test. How is a load test done?
JW
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Old May 9, 2015 | 07:13 PM
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Shops will have a load test device that connects to the battery and places a fairly heavy amperage load on the battery. The tester will check the volts before and after to determine how fast the battery recovers.

There are new electronic testers that functionally do the same thing but without a heavy load placed on the battery. Some will even provide a printed report or have a digital display that shows the condition of the battery.

Most of the chain parts stores (AutoZone, O' Reilley's, Pep Boys, NAPA, etc.) have the ability to load test a battery and usually at no charge.
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Old May 9, 2015 | 09:42 PM
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The symptoms provided don't indicate a healthy electrical system.

When using a charger, the voltage should never read
11V...... it should read 13.8V+. It is recommended that the charger is 'automatic' vs. 'manual' to prevent overcharging.

At start-up, the voltage can read 14.5V for at least 10 minutes+, then gradually drop to 13.9V+. 13.2V is too low as this may indicate a failing alternator. In theory, a fully charged battery will read 13.2V (2.2V per cell) so 13.2V indicates little, or no charge from the alternator. Most parts houses will load test the alternator for free.

Because the battery is only 3 years old, doesn't mean the battery is working properly. Have the battery load tested, also.
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Old May 9, 2015 | 10:39 PM
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Does the Battery and Alternator have to be removed to load test?
JW
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Old May 9, 2015 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by J W Drew
Does the Battery and Alternator have to be removed to load test?
JW
Most places you bring your battery in
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Old May 10, 2015 | 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by J W Drew
Does the Battery and Alternator have to be removed to load test?
JW
If you plan on taking the batt and alt to a parts house, yes, you usually will need to remove them from the vette,
but check with the parts house to confirm that the units need to be removed.

If you take your vette to an auto-electric shop, the test can be done without removing the units, but there may be a charge for the tests. Call ahead to see if there will be a charge for testing.

Last edited by don hall; May 10, 2015 at 01:58 AM.
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Old May 10, 2015 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by J W Drew
My first question is about the volt indicator on my 85. I always thought this gage told you the voltage in the battery. However, after a week of sitting, before starting, my meter will show 11 volts. After starting it jumps to 14 volts. What is the principle about this?
Second question: after driving the car for, say about, 10 miles the volt gage is still showing about 13.2 volts. Why is this. The battery is an AC Delco and about 3 years old and this condition has remained the same since new. I use a battery tender if I know I'm not going to drive the car for a week as the after market alarm draws a lot of Amps.
Thanks,
JW
JW, assuming you have checked the acid levels in your battery and they're full, I'm a little confused about your post. Your third sentence mentions "after a week of sitting." Your last sentence says you use a Battery Tender if you're not going to drive the car for a week. So, did you have the Battery Tender attached prior to the numbers you posted or was the car sitting for that week without the Battery Tender?

If it was sitting with the Battery Tender connected, you're original voltage before start up should be at least 12 volts. If it was sitting without the Battery Tender connected, your gauge is showing numbers consistent with a healthy electrical system and a 3-year old battery.

A suggestion to extend the life of your current battery (and any future batteries) would be to use your Battery Tender on a regular basis.
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Old May 10, 2015 | 06:48 PM
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DrDyno, to answer your question "after sitting a week" refers to without the tender. However, even using the tender I only have about 11.5 volts. before start up. I use the tender plugged into my cig lighter. I believe the battery is sealed so no way the check the acid level.
Thanks,
JW
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Old May 10, 2015 | 10:24 PM
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Default Battery

Originally Posted by J W Drew
My first question is about the volt indicator on my 85. I always thought this gage told you the voltage in the battery. However, after a week of sitting, before starting, my meter will show 11 volts. After starting it jumps to 14 volts. What is the principle about this?
Second question: after driving the car for, say about, 10 miles the volt gage is still showing about 13.2 volts. Why is this. The battery is an AC Delco and about 3 years old and this condition has remained the same since new. I use a battery tender if I know I'm not going to drive the car for a week as the after market alarm draws a lot of Amps.
Thanks,
JW
Sounds normal to me. Put a VOM meter on the battery before you turn the key (not the meter in the car. ) It should read 12v or over, 12.6v is perfect. Your probably dropping to 11v when you turn the key to the on position without starting because the fuel pump and other stuff is drawing current.
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Old May 11, 2015 | 12:48 AM
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If you have 2 caps (3 each side) and you can use a screwdriver and pry it open then it is not sealed. Take it out, remove the caps, clean carefully and look in with a flashlight and make sure the level is at the bottom of the plastic sleeves. It will look like a marble. Use only distilled water. I refilled all 3 of my batteries and they are rejuvenated like new. 85 Corvette(Duralast Gold) , 97 Range Rover(Sears Durasomething) , 97 Celica GT(Bosch).
The AAA guy told me my battery was sealed but it is not. Have to throw this in DO not smoke!!! or anything when you do this.
Good Luck

Last edited by xrav22; May 11, 2015 at 12:51 AM.
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Old May 11, 2015 | 07:19 PM
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Sounds normal to me; as others have stated once you turn the key on you are putting a load on battery and the voltage will drop. Seeing 14ish while running is nothing to be concerned with either as the alternator is doing it's job. As above, if you really want to be sure put a volt meter on the battery as it sits in the car with no load on it and see what it reads. If you see 12.0 to 12.5 you are good to go. Just my .02
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