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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 09:30 AM
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Been hearing nightmares about heat cores just thinking out load.

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Originally Posted by Maxo View Post
Hey AF,
I let the genie in a can repair it for me. Bars radiator and heatorcore sealant (liquid aluminum). It sealed the deal.



I might try that after I bypassed it a couple hoses a drill pump a shrader valve for air pressure maybe evan a inline heating element run it in a closed system Just useing the heater core. What do you have to lose if it seals flush out the excess. Just pulled this out of my back side any thoughts?
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 03:22 PM
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Any yah's or nay's
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 09:47 PM
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Default Not hard

Originally Posted by antfarmer2
Any yah's or nay's
I did mine a little while ago and it's not hard but tedious. Forget about going upside down and practicing yoga positions to do it, just go straight through the dash with some socket extenders. There's a video posted here about doing an 89 without removing dash pad. Watch it so you can see where the screws are located. You will have to remove dash pad and lower knee pad on passenger side. Pull the passenger seat as well to give yourself some working room take pics and bag screws when you disassemble. Remove passenger airbag. First disconnect battery and turn headlights on to drain any reserve power. Loosen the ac duct work by unscrewing from back of vents. With the duct work loose you can move things around to get at the screws holding the core in. Pay attention to how you remove core. Install is the exact reverse of removal. Mine was leaking from the hose stems that pass through the fire wall. Not sure liquid weld will fix that.
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 1994DelawareCoup
First disconnect battery and turn headlights on to drain any reserve power.
Wouldn't it be easier to honk the horn and prove to yourself that there isn't any reserve power to drain?
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
Wouldn't it be easier to honk the horn and prove to yourself that there isn't any reserve power to drain?
At the factory we would pull the air bag fuse then had to wait ten min before messing with the air bag door sensors when doing a door repair built in cigg break.
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2
Been hearing nightmares about heat cores just thinking out load.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxo View Post
Hey AF,
I let the genie in a can repair it for me. Bars radiator and heatorcore sealant (liquid aluminum). It sealed the deal.



I might try that after I bypassed it a couple hoses a drill pump a shrader valve for air pressure maybe evan a inline heating element run it in a closed system Just useing the heater core. What do you have to lose if it seals flush out the excess. Just pulled this out of my back side any thoughts?
Yeah. That's where that idea belongs, that leak seal is crap and causes other issues sooner or later.
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by DinoBob
Yeah. That's where that idea belongs, that leak seal is crap and causes other issues sooner or later.
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Old Jun 4, 2015 | 01:00 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2
At the factory we would pull the air bag fuse then had to wait ten min before messing with the air bag door sensors when doing a door repair built in cigg break.
The air bag system stores energy so that it can be deployed even if the wires are cut in an accident.

The power in the rest of the car goes to zero in a second after the battery is disconnected. There is no need to turn on the headlights to drain the energy.
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