I have a 1995 corvette and having problems shifting gears. My theory is either I need a clutch replacement or it needs an adjustment. Im going for the adjustment theory because it doesn't grab high it grabs about an eight of a inch from the floor. Its been a while since I had clutch trouble but I remember if the clutch is worn it will grab on the high side, am I right?

 

There's no adjusting a hydraulic clutch.

 

Check the fluid in the clutch master cylinder. Refill if low, then work the pedal up and down repeatedly to coax the air back out of the upper end of the line. If that doesn't solve the problem, bleed the system at the slave cylinder. If the problem persists after that, it's time to look at the master and/or slave cylinder, or worst case at a fault in the clutch mechanicals.

Live well,

SJW

 

I thought it was a hydro clutch, I had it out the other day I looked for the clutch master cylinder didn't see it where is it located thanks for the info.

 

Look under the engine computer right at the firewall. To access it lift the computer (I think there are a couple easy to get bolts for the computer).

 

I'm guessing, by your not aware of where the clutch master is, that it prolly hasn't been serviced recently...or the car is new to you. Yes?

In my experience with the C4s' hydraulic clutch, most of the time when what you're experiencing happens is one of three things:

1. The fluid has not been changed recently, and is contaminated with water (black in color)
   
2. The clutch fork is bent
   
3. The seals, e.g., master or slave or both cylinders are 'kaput'!.

It is critically important to keep the clutch fluid (and brake fluid too) fresh and clear. When it turns black, corrosion due to water contamination is occurring, and flakes of contamination build up and the deterioration of the moving parts accelerates exponentally; both the seals and the cylinders are being adversely affected. Keep the fluids (both brake and clutch) fresh (and clear).

 

Driver's side firewall. The square silver thing with fins on top, that's your ECM (engine control module). Remove the one bolt from the rear bracket, it has a nut underneath, and carefully slide the ECM forward off the mount. You may need to tilt it to the left (driver's side) to clear the brake master cylinder cap while sliding it off the mount. Once removed, carefully place the ECM on top of the engine or somewhere sturdy. Do not disconnect the wiring harness connections.

Now, the clutch master cylinder is the small round reservoir bolted to the firewall underneath where the ECM used to be. The black cap says "clutch." Clean the area before removing the cap, to avoid debris falling into the reservoir. Various cables and hoses are routed through this area but you should be able to get the cap off without too much trouble. Check the condition of the rubber "hat" seal while you are in the master.

The full mark on the side of the clutch master reservoir is a bit hard to see. But I think it is important to get the fluid level exactly at the full mark -- this is helpful when observing a suspected system leak or other problem, because then you know exactly where the level was the last time you checked it. I managed to tuck the rubber hat seal up into itself without creating any creases, so it doesn't extend down into the fluid and make it so frustrating to get the level exactly full.

Hope this helps you.

 

I first wanna thank everyone that give me this important advise. Yes your so right, the car is real important to me Ive had it ten yrs I put about 6k miles on it. I drive it once or twice a year its really clean and I like to keep that way. But now you guys gave me the knowledge to correct it and I thank you corvette brothers.

 

Everyone here on CF is happy to help. It's a labor of love.

May I suggest you drive the car more often, maybe once or twice a month. Yes you will put more miles on it but it's not good for these cars to sit so long without being driven. Long periods of inactivity will invite problems of their own kind, typically related to fuel, electrical, weather stripping, dry rotted or flat spotted tires, rodent invasion and funny smells. By what I have seen on here, the cars that run the best are the ones being driven regularly, if not daily.

 

I did a new Wagner master cyl(60$), Wagner slave cylinder(80$) and braided clutch line(110$) plus new fluid on my 95 doing the install myself . So far so good, the Wagner's are quality parts. If the parts are original you may want to look into it, you should replace them both If one goes bad or is going bad. Its kind of like recharging your a.c., you should never have to add anything to a system working properly, if you do it means you have a problem and most likely you will loose your clutch pedal entirely.

 

[QUOTE=DGXR;1590742409]Everyone here on CF is happy to help. It's a labor of love.

May I suggest you drive the car more often, maybe once or twice a month. Yes you will put more miles on it but it's not good for these cars to sit so long without being driven. Long periods of inactivity will invite problems of their own kind, typically related to fuel, electrical, weather stripping, dry rotted or flat spotted tires, rodent invasion and funny smells. By what I have seen on here, the cars that run the best are the ones being driven regularly, if not daily.[/Q


That makes perfect cents, I will drive it a bit more after I fix it thanks for your advice

 

Thanks for the band of the parts, that will come in handy when I fix this.