Care to post some pics? $150 a pair but if it works correctly and is as bright as the website says might be worth it... Still a lot for DRL.


I have the webelectric DRL module and have nothing bad to say about it.

 

One of the threads on here covers how to mod the grounds to solve the led blinker on the late 90's models.

I didn't bother bookmarking it when I was looking the stuff up since mines an 87 but I found it thru google.

 

X2 and it is a great mod. However I am not running LEDs for the DRLs just the plain old yellow bulbs.

 

Same, just regular filament bulbs in mine as well

Philips 2357 to be exact.

 

Well I made no real progress today on the blinkers. I did find out my cig lighter bit the dust so ordered a new socket and lighter to go in it.

It was one of those days where the little voice is saying you work on stuff its not going to end well. Everything I started went wrong so I stopped and will try another day.

 

Sorry, don't have one and the car is already in storage for winter.

 

Well I just finished simulating the wiring on my car in the house. Fun fun. The diode trick works but again no ones going to want to dig into their dash for this so its resistors for the front turn signals and no resistors for the rear led's when I do them since the front will be enough to solve it.

Since the plug and play ones have the wrong socket on them and I'm not willing to cut up my blinker assemblies for this and I doubt others would either I'm going to cut the resistors out of the harnesses I bought.

This will simulate someone buying just the resistors. I'll splice them into the wires right before the bulb socket and mount the resistors to the frame for cooling. Remember these get around the same temperature as a bulb so you don't want other wires touching them and bolting them to the frame will help dissipate heat better.

I'll do the splicing and mounting tomorrow and shoot pics and post in here. Only real solution that can be done easily by anyone so that's the way I'll go.

 

Good thread crowz Those vleds are pretty badazz. These from retrofit source look pretty cool tohttp://www.theretrofitsource.com/led-lighting.html

 

Ok I have one blinker done. Though I still have to mount the resistor the frame for safe heat dissipation. Taking a break and will post pics when I'm all done.

I tested both blinker wires to know exactly for sure which wires have to have the resistor added and if both power wires were needed or not.

The resistor has to go from the black ground wire to the blueish wires which is weird logic wise.

The blueish (different tint depending on which side of the car) work the blinkers. The brown wire works the parking lights. The parking lights are what makes the dash glow. So logically the parking light wire (brown) seems to be what needed the resistor. But its actually the blinker (blueish) wire on each socket that needs the resistor.

So one wire of the resistor goes to black and one goes to the blueish wire. Then the resistor needs to be bolted to metal to make it last forever and to be safe. Its not like a fire hazard heat wise but it does get as hot as the bulb your replacing with the led.

So for conversion of stock bulbs to led's you need led's of course, 2 resistors (one for each front of the car blinker) and an electronic flasher module.

As I replace more bulbs with led's if I run into changes or problems I will post them here.

Also I'll post pics tonight when I get completely done.

 

I put LED's in the rear of my wife's car without any load resisters and although it blinks a little faster than stock, I get no error message on the dash. They are a LOT brighter than the old bulbs and the bright faster flash really get attention.
Vette still has the stock bulbs but I plan a future change to the LED's for it too.
Curious... Do those resistors show an OHM value printed on them or is it concealed with paint or sleeving?

 

They show the values. Its 50watts 6 ohms.

This pics I'm uploading right now show the values stamped on them.

You only need the electronic flasher module for making the led's blink at the right speed.

The resistors are only needed if you change out the front bulbs to keep the dash turn signals from glowing.

 

Ok lets get this part started with a pic of the kit as far as I could install it. This shows how it plugs into the factory socket and then the other end has its own socket. Which would of worked wonderful if the socket it provided fit the blinker housing. Which it didn't.

 

As I was finishing up the soldering on the wires the negative wire's clip came out of the bulb socket. This has happened a few times since Ive owned the car but this time when it came out I found out why it had been falling out. The tab had worn into that holds it into the socket.

It was supposed to have a tab that sprung outward. If you look close you can see the tip looks bent but that's actually where the other part of the metal broke off.

 

So not having anything to use as a spare for that clip I made one

Here is where I cut a piece off some wire I had and shaped it into a U.

I figured someone else will have this happen one day and it worked at least.

 

The I put the U shaped wire over the broken clip and soldered it to it.

Not the most elegant fix but again it at least worked

Then I pressed the clip back into the socket.

 

The two wires as I mentioned earlier are "blueish" that you will solder the wires from the resistor to. You of course can use those press on clips but I have horrible luck with those and prefer to solder the wires since that last forever and the clips don't.

The blueish reference is light blue on the drivers side and dark blue on the passenger side.

So you solder one wire from the resistor to the light blue wire on the drivers side blinker sockets wires and the other end of the resistor is soldered to the black wire.

On the passenger side you solder one end to the dark blue wire and the other to the black wire.

Then drill a small hole in the frame to mount the resistor to it. Here is the drivers side finished.

 

And here is the passenger side finished.

 

Sorry I don't have any pics of me actually soldering the wires and such but I haven't been able to teach molly to work the camera while I'm working on stuff

 

This completely fixes the turn signal lights glowing on the dash when the parking lights are turned on.

So this is what you have to do to have led's in the front of your car. I know someone will recommend loaded led bulbs. I personally think that's a very bad idea. This risk melting the housing. The method I used here has the heat against the frame thus 100% safe.

 

Hi...
Same problem here with fron amber.
Is it possible to get all the rest of the car led, and leave only front turn/park as incadescent?

are these the only bulbs that make trouble?