When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Would be Side marker that c4 uses both for marker and for blinker? That's ok according to the fsm draw it has no ground. It has blu wire form blinker, and brown wire from to parking lights.
Why it works with incadescent and no with led?
Thought incadescent has two way filaments, instead led seems to be only one way...one channel...it can be more or less bright...
Ok I have one blinker done. Though I still have to mount the resistor the frame for safe heat dissipation. Taking a break and will post pics when I'm all done.
I tested both blinker wires to know exactly for sure which wires have to have the resistor added and if both power wires were needed or not.
The resistor has to go from the black ground wire to the blueish wires which is weird logic wise.
The blueish (different tint depending on which side of the car) work the blinkers. The brown wire works the parking lights. The parking lights are what makes the dash glow. So logically the parking light wire (brown) seems to be what needed the resistor. But its actually the blinker (blueish) wire on each socket that needs the resistor.
So one wire of the resistor goes to black and one goes to the blueish wire. Then the resistor needs to be bolted to metal to make it last forever and to be safe. Its not like a fire hazard heat wise but it does get as hot as the bulb your replacing with the led.
So for conversion of stock bulbs to led's you need led's of course, 2 resistors (one for each front of the car blinker) and an electronic flasher module.
As I replace more bulbs with led's if I run into changes or problems I will post them here.
Also I'll post pics tonight when I get completely done.
Did you solve this way? Is with resistor in your car ok? Font amber led bulbs and blinker works both with light turned on or off?
Did you solve this way? Is with resistor in your car ok? Font amber led bulbs and blinker works both with light turned on or off?
Adding the resistors to the front blinkers was what I went with. The other solution was modding the cluster and I didn't see many wanting to go that route so for the sake of the howto stuff I was doing I went with the resistors.
This link shows everything I did blinker wise with part #'s and such and pics.
I put the vleds Triton V3 into my 95. Yes, they are more expensive than other solutions but they work perfectly with the added resistors. DRL are white and when switching the turn signal white goes off and amber it flashes.
When having the headlights running DRLs are dimmed a lot as required in Germany.
I really like it.
For my 1996 I am looking for exactly this functionality: When turn signal is on, it should be Amber-Off-Amber-Off - NOT Amber-White-Amber-White.
I just installed some of the switchback LED's and they did require the resistors. I had installed the no-load flasher when I recently switched out the tail light bulbs with LED's (much brighter than the originals).
They behaved the same way as yours before I installed the resistors. I mounted the resistors to the metal part of the chassis right next to the bulb opening.
I am now looking to replace the fogs with LED's, as well.
I would install HID's if you actually want them to be bright. Bought these for the cornering lights, and they don't light up. I twist them into place and all, no worky.
I just installed some of the switchback LED's and they did require the resistors. I had installed the no-load flasher when I recently switched out the tail light bulbs with LED's (much brighter than the originals).
They behaved the same way as yours before I installed the resistors. I mounted the resistors to the metal part of the chassis right next to the bulb opening.
I am now looking to replace the fogs with LED's, as well.
Keith
Many thanks! Today I tried the bulbs with the resistor. To be honest I am the "solder everything" guy who really hates the wire-tap connectors but it was cold and late in the evening and I was tired... so I installed them as good as possible - and nothing worked. Same as before: Amber stays on. Some swearwords later I thought: Hey, there is a reason why I hate the wire-tap connectors so lets measure if there is really current on the resistor. Hmmm, some 12ish V on the metal part of the connector but I don't trust the connectors and I will have to rip them out anyway... so lets rip out the resistor cable and push it on the metal part of the connector - on - off - on - off YEAH! Unfortunately it is way too slow now, maybe half the frequency as it should. But the sidemarker lightbulb of the side where I tried the LED is broken, maybe this is the reason why it is so slow? So I will buy the sidemarker lightbulb and try it again.
If it continues to be so slow, do I need a higher or lower resistor?
I used these for my reverse lights and they are much brighter than the original halogens (and a much better color, IMHO). I had to Dremmel (with the small sandpaper tube) out a little bit of the lip for the bulb to go in far enough to be able to twist it in. It doesn't take much, so don't go overboard. It doesn't affect a regular bulb placement, so I could switch back, if I ever wanted to.
I am going to be replacing my cornering lights with them as well, and I will probably have to modify the connectors there, as well. When I replaced the tail lights with these(edit: don't get these, video), I didn't have to modify the connectors at all (except to get rid of some of the old, hard bulb grease that was caked in them).
Many thanks! Today I tried the bulbs with the resistor. To be honest I am the "solder everything" guy who really hates the wire-tap connectors but it was cold and late in the evening and I was tired... so I installed them as good as possible - and nothing worked. Same as before: Amber stays on. Some swearwords later I thought: Hey, there is a reason why I hate the wire-tap connectors so lets measure if there is really current on the resistor. Hmmm, some 12ish V on the metal part of the connector but I don't trust the connectors and I will have to rip them out anyway... so lets rip out the resistor cable and push it on the metal part of the connector - on - off - on - off YEAH! Unfortunately it is way too slow now, maybe half the frequency as it should. But the sidemarker lightbulb of the side where I tried the LED is broken, maybe this is the reason why it is so slow? So I will buy the sidemarker lightbulb and try it again.
If it continues to be so slow, do I need a higher or lower resistor?
The side marker bulb acts as a 2 way ground, so it might be the issue, but it would only be for that side. If the click rate is the same on both, than that isn't the issue.
What no-load flasher are you using? Here's mine, from AutoZone.
I don't think the resistor would be the issue, either. When I was testing my cornering light LED's yesterday, my switchbacks slowed to a crawl. So slow, that the white running lights started to briefly come on (it's on a timer, so that when the turn signal light turns off, the timer kicks in and when it expires, the running light kicks back on).
What was causing this, is that my engine was off and the voltage was dropping too low for the no-load flashers. As soon as I started my engine, it went back to a normal flash rate.
I do see a slightly different flash rate when the running/parking lights are on, versus when they are off, but it isn't significant. I would guess this is related to the no-load flasher, but that is just a guess.
amber is permanently on. 
