Agruments Settled
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Safety Car
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From: Indiana PA
Agruments Settled
Straight off the Forums main page.
Make these Myths can die now.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/articl...orvette-myths/
Make these Myths can die now.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/articl...orvette-myths/
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
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Well, a high flow water pump cured my problem that I was having. During full throttle runs the engine get to 238 really quickly. Also, cruising at 3500 RPMs on the highway would cause the engine temp to climb up higher until I installed the high flow pump.
And as for the thermostat, I drilled holes in mine to allow the system to bleed off air to the radiator cap quicker.
And as for the thermostat, I drilled holes in mine to allow the system to bleed off air to the radiator cap quicker.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2007
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Well, a high flow water pump cured my problem that I was having. During full throttle runs the engine get to 238 really quickly. Also, cruising at 3500 RPMs on the highway would cause the engine temp to climb up higher until I installed the high flow pump.
And as for the thermostat, I drilled holes in mine to allow the system to bleed off air to the radiator cap quicker.
And as for the thermostat, I drilled holes in mine to allow the system to bleed off air to the radiator cap quicker.
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That's intended for C3s, but regarding the 1/8" hole in the thermostat, most the stats come with it now.
The hole helps to burp the system it got NOTHING to do with cooling. On the LT1 (92-96) there is a blleding screw at the 'stat's neck. I guess the GM engineers thought a "hole" was a good idea. ...and it is
The 160°F 'stat does make the engine cooler. I know this by personal experience, and last September it cooled The Ghost so low, that I bought and installed a 180°F 'stat while I was driving thru Tennessee.
I've read few L98 threads in here with positive comments regarding high volume water pumps.
Regarding the timing, and EGR
The hole helps to burp the system it got NOTHING to do with cooling. On the LT1 (92-96) there is a blleding screw at the 'stat's neck. I guess the GM engineers thought a "hole" was a good idea. ...and it is
The 160°F 'stat does make the engine cooler. I know this by personal experience, and last September it cooled The Ghost so low, that I bought and installed a 180°F 'stat while I was driving thru Tennessee.
I've read few L98 threads in here with positive comments regarding high volume water pumps.
Regarding the timing, and EGR
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
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From: Park City Utah
Who wrote the article? #3 is dead asssed wrong.
#2 is "marginally" correct. In reality, the answer to that question is; It depends on the capacity of your cooling system, ambient air temp and air volume through the radiator.
EDIT: OMG!!! "Toobroketoretire" wrote that crap!? No wonder it was bogus! That guy is one of the biggest
on the forums! 
.
#2 is "marginally" correct. In reality, the answer to that question is; It depends on the capacity of your cooling system, ambient air temp and air volume through the radiator.
EDIT: OMG!!! "Toobroketoretire" wrote that crap!? No wonder it was bogus! That guy is one of the biggest
on the forums! .
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Dec 2, 2015 at 01:11 PM.
Melting Slicks
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From: Saskatoon Sask.
Team Owner
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From: Park City Utah
And from another source:
Stewart Components
More information available on the subject if you search for hydronic HVAC systems, too.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
Probably a new standard pump would have done the same thing.
Stabilized engine temps are dependent upon several things: size of the radiator, the temperature of the air flowing through it, and the amount of heat being produced by the engine.
Now, maintenance things like bad impellers, blocked/plugged radiators, low coolant, etc. of course will contribute to high temps, but the speed of coolant flow (unless it is near zero) in a sound system is not one of them. High flow pumps just pump coolant faster, since the internal volume of the system is fixed.
Stabilized engine temps are dependent upon several things: size of the radiator, the temperature of the air flowing through it, and the amount of heat being produced by the engine.
Now, maintenance things like bad impellers, blocked/plugged radiators, low coolant, etc. of course will contribute to high temps, but the speed of coolant flow (unless it is near zero) in a sound system is not one of them. High flow pumps just pump coolant faster, since the internal volume of the system is fixed.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
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Likes: 39
Probably a new standard pump would have done the same thing.
Stabilized engine temps are dependent upon several things: size of the radiator, the temperature of the air flowing through it, and the amount of heat being produced by the engine.
Now, maintenance things like bad impellers, blocked/plugged radiators, low coolant, etc. of course will contribute to high temps, but the speed of coolant flow (unless it is near zero) in a sound system is not one of them. High flow pumps just pump coolant faster, since the internal volume of the system is fixed.
Stabilized engine temps are dependent upon several things: size of the radiator, the temperature of the air flowing through it, and the amount of heat being produced by the engine.
Now, maintenance things like bad impellers, blocked/plugged radiators, low coolant, etc. of course will contribute to high temps, but the speed of coolant flow (unless it is near zero) in a sound system is not one of them. High flow pumps just pump coolant faster, since the internal volume of the system is fixed.
It would get to near overheating temp just by driving around normally. I changed to a performance radiator good to 600 hp and thermostat to attempt to cure that particular issue to no avail. The cure for that was extensive air bleeding.
Then it would run hot while cruising at 3500 RPMs or higher on the highway and if I made a full throttle run. The cure for that problem was the high flow water pump. Stock pump had no problem keeping up until the new heads.
Last edited by DanielRicany; Dec 2, 2015 at 11:19 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
The stat they show in the picture has three holes. I only drill a single 1/16" hole and then position the stat so when the front of the car is jacked up the hole is in front at the highest point. I have a fail-safe stat in my 95 now that should it fail...it will fail OPEN. It already as the hole drilled.
As far as the waterpump is concerned, I put the Flow-Kooler pump on my 85 and it ran 10 degrees cooler.
As far as the waterpump is concerned, I put the Flow-Kooler pump on my 85 and it ran 10 degrees cooler.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,227
Likes: 697
From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
That's intended for C3s, but regarding the 1/8" hole in the thermostat, most the stats come with it now.
The hole helps to burp the system it got NOTHING to do with cooling. On the LT1 (92-96) there is a blleding screw at the 'stat's neck. I guess the GM engineers thought a "hole" was a good idea. ...and it is
The 160°F 'stat does make the engine cooler. I know this by personal experience, and last September it cooled The Ghost so low, that I bought and installed a 180°F 'stat while I was driving thru Tennessee.
I've read few L98 threads in here with positive comments regarding high volume water pumps.
Regarding the timing, and EGR
The hole helps to burp the system it got NOTHING to do with cooling. On the LT1 (92-96) there is a blleding screw at the 'stat's neck. I guess the GM engineers thought a "hole" was a good idea. ...and it is
The 160°F 'stat does make the engine cooler. I know this by personal experience, and last September it cooled The Ghost so low, that I bought and installed a 180°F 'stat while I was driving thru Tennessee.
I've read few L98 threads in here with positive comments regarding high volume water pumps.
Regarding the timing, and EGR
Team Owner
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From: Park City Utah
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,409
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From: NC
All a T stat does is set the MINIMUM coolant temperature. Yes, on a cold day a colder tstat car will run colder than one that's identical otherwise, just with a hotter thermostat.
The Radiator's number of passes, surface area, and airflow are the largest factors in determining how well a HEALTHY cooling system functions.
The Radiator's number of passes, surface area, and airflow are the largest factors in determining how well a HEALTHY cooling system functions.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
Absolutely impossible. You could have no thermostat and the engine is still going to settle at the cars operating temp. And for a C4, sometimes that's pretty warm
Last edited by Cruisinfanatic; Dec 2, 2015 at 12:54 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Park City Utah
That is right.
HOWEVER, if your radiator has enough capacity, and it should, in most driving conditions, it should be able to drive the coolant temp down "against" the T-stat's opening temp range. Why should it? Cars are designed to be able to maintain acceptable coolant/engine temps in extreme conditions; 100*+F, heavy loads, High RPM, etc. OEM's can't be producing cars that are ok most of the time...but over heat in extreme conditions....well, the current Z06 is facing that very issues and it's "not O.K.".
So with that in mind, most driving conditions are pretty far from extreme; light loads, low RPM, even in high ambient temps, the properly functioning cooling system should have a large margin, with which to "over cool" the engine.
In most driving conditions, your cooling system should be trying to drive your coolant temps right down below T-stat opening point, and in those circumstances, the T-stat would, indeed be "controlling your operating temp".
HOWEVER, if your radiator has enough capacity, and it should, in most driving conditions, it should be able to drive the coolant temp down "against" the T-stat's opening temp range. Why should it? Cars are designed to be able to maintain acceptable coolant/engine temps in extreme conditions; 100*+F, heavy loads, High RPM, etc. OEM's can't be producing cars that are ok most of the time...but over heat in extreme conditions....well, the current Z06 is facing that very issues and it's "not O.K.".
So with that in mind, most driving conditions are pretty far from extreme; light loads, low RPM, even in high ambient temps, the properly functioning cooling system should have a large margin, with which to "over cool" the engine.
In most driving conditions, your cooling system should be trying to drive your coolant temps right down below T-stat opening point, and in those circumstances, the T-stat would, indeed be "controlling your operating temp".
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
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From: Park City Utah
So why the comment about fan settings then??
That is dead assed wrong. Read my post above.
I HAVE removed the stat from previous cars, and the car DID run very low temps. In some cases, it would barely get over 100*F.
The car doesn't run ~200*F, "because it wants to". It doesn't "want" anything. It runs at any temp above T-stat fully open, b/c the cooling system's capacity is = to the engine's heat output in those conditions. If "those conditions" for your car are 200* operating temp in "most normal driving", then your cooling system needs attention. MY C4 will run right down against the T-stat in nearly all driving conditions that I encounter; even 95*+F days. In fact, even with it's 180* stat, some times temps will go down as low as ~174*F. How can that be? It can be, b/c the cooling system has way more capacity than the heat the engine is producing...as it should under most driving conditions.
.
I HAVE removed the stat from previous cars, and the car DID run very low temps. In some cases, it would barely get over 100*F.
The car doesn't run ~200*F, "because it wants to". It doesn't "want" anything. It runs at any temp above T-stat fully open, b/c the cooling system's capacity is = to the engine's heat output in those conditions. If "those conditions" for your car are 200* operating temp in "most normal driving", then your cooling system needs attention. MY C4 will run right down against the T-stat in nearly all driving conditions that I encounter; even 95*+F days. In fact, even with it's 180* stat, some times temps will go down as low as ~174*F. How can that be? It can be, b/c the cooling system has way more capacity than the heat the engine is producing...as it should under most driving conditions.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Dec 2, 2015 at 01:03 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,227
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From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
So why the comment about fan settings then??
That is dead assed wrong. Read my post above.
I HAVE removed the stat from previous cars, and the car DID run very low temps. In some cases, it would barely get over 100*F.
The car doesn't run ~200*F, "because it wants to". It doesn't "want" anything. It runs at any temp above T-stat fully open, b/c the cooling system's capacity is = to the engine's heat output in those conditions. If "those conditions" for your car are 200* operating temp in "most normal driving", then your cooling system needs attention. MY C4 will run right down against the T-stat in nearly all driving conditions that I encounter; even 95*+F days. In fact, even with it's 180* stat, some times temps will go down as low as ~174*F. How can that be? It can be, b/c the cooling system has way more capacity than the heat the engine is producing...as it should under most driving conditions.
.
That is dead assed wrong. Read my post above.
I HAVE removed the stat from previous cars, and the car DID run very low temps. In some cases, it would barely get over 100*F.
The car doesn't run ~200*F, "because it wants to". It doesn't "want" anything. It runs at any temp above T-stat fully open, b/c the cooling system's capacity is = to the engine's heat output in those conditions. If "those conditions" for your car are 200* operating temp in "most normal driving", then your cooling system needs attention. MY C4 will run right down against the T-stat in nearly all driving conditions that I encounter; even 95*+F days. In fact, even with it's 180* stat, some times temps will go down as low as ~174*F. How can that be? It can be, b/c the cooling system has way more capacity than the heat the engine is producing...as it should under most driving conditions.
.
If a cars normal high temp is 185-190 or so, having a 160 or 180 will not make a difference
Last edited by Cruisinfanatic; Dec 2, 2015 at 01:16 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
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From: Park City Utah
Would you like me to prove you wrong? I'll go pull my stat in my truck right now, video a trip to Salt lake and back, post it. You seem quite certain, for being totally wrong.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Dec 2, 2015 at 01:36 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,227
Likes: 697
From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
Please use science to explain why it "cannot". Please keep in mind that what I REALLY said was: In some cases, it would barely get over 100*F. That means it DID get over 100*F, and it was "in some cases", meaning the conditions were right for that situation. But I'd like to hear why that "cannot" happen, technically speaking.
Would you like me to prove you wrong? I'll go pull my stat in my truck right now, video a trip to Salt lake and back, post it. You seem quite certain, for being totally wrong.
.
Would you like me to prove you wrong? I'll go pull my stat in my truck right now, video a trip to Salt lake and back, post it. You seem quite certain, for being totally wrong.
.