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I have a Clutch problem and I am replacing it. Had a huge oil leak and it was slipping. Anyway, everything has been dissasembled to get to remove the clutch.
10 years ago I has a Clutch problem and we found that the problem was that the clutch fork pivot stud was almost loose and allowed the fork to contact the clutch.
The clutch fork pivot stud was put in place with maybe red loctite or blue.
Problem is that red loctite is permanent and requires a lot of heat to get the threaded pivot stud out. The back part has been already removed.
In order to get the clutch housing out I had to cut the throw out bearing with a dremel, but I still have this problem and do not know how to get it out.
The clutch housing is magnesium which is more fragile than aluminium and I have read that it has a low mwlting point, about 600 C degrees .
I need suggestions to remove it ? Any ideas? I do not want the part to ignite!! Or break the housing.
At least I can work the clutch housing outside of the car.
Thanks for the advise.
This are pictures from internet of the parts involved plus the clutch housing
It has been a few years since I've had to remove one, but if I recall correctly, it is reverse thread. Have you verified that you've been trying to turn it the right direction?
A heat gun should provide adequate heat to soften red loctite.
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Does the C4 even use a setup like this? Only one of the C4s I owned had a 6-speed and it was a hydraulic setup that I never had any reason to mess with.
Forgive my possible ignorance but are you talking about a C3?
Yes, it is a 1994 Corvette with a ZF6 black tag manual transmission.
I am not sure if they are inverse thread, but I have tried both directions without any movement at all.
threads are standard right hand threads, and it is a beeeotch to loosen up. because I found aluminum shavings in the bell area and saw rubbing on the pressure plate and the clutch fork, I elected to cut the fork ( I had a couple spare forks ) and get the ball out from inside the bell housing. used an open end wrench to remove the ball stud.
The threads are standard right hand threads, but it goes into the housing from the clutch side.
The internal hex in the stud is on the other side (the slave side) so from the slave side you need to turn it clockwise to loosen it. (that is the standard right hand thread that would be counterclockwise from on the clutch side that it was installed from.
It has been a few years since I've had to remove one, but if I recall correctly, it is reverse thread. Have you verified that you've been trying to turn it the right direction?
A heat gun should provide adequate heat to soften red loctite.
I think there is a lot of confusion on the stud threads.
To make is simple, use a 12 mm allen socket and turn clockwise to loosen it.
The definition of standard or reverse threads comes about because you are turning the allen head from the opposite side that the stud was installed from.
If you look at the picture below you can see the stud has a standard thread. Not a reverse thread. But from the opposite side, you turn it the opposite way to loosen it
I think there is a lot of confusion on the stud threads.
To make is simple, use a 12 mm allen socket and turn clockwise to loosen it.
The definition of standard or reverse threads comes about because you are turning the allen head from the opposite side that the stud was installed from.
If you look at the picture below you can see the stud has a standard thread. Not a reverse thread. But from the opposite side, you turn it the opposite way to loosen it
This is correct. Just removed mind. You turn it into the bell housing to remove. Must remove retainer first. In my case it fell out......!!!!! when I removed the transmission.
I could use a new pivot ball stud if anyone has one. Mine is pristine compared to the one pictured above. Yikes!
Loctite is funny stuff, cold, or below a certain temp it holds almost like a weld; when it hits a certain temp and liquifies it almost acts like a lubricant....so try heating it with a heat gun first; the red loctite should soften way before you have any issue with the magnesium softening.
Loctite is funny stuff, cold, or below a certain temp it holds almost like a weld; when it hits a certain temp and liquifies it almost acts like a lubricant....so try heating it with a heat gun first; the red loctite should soften way before you have any issue with the magnesium softening.
Loctite actually mentions disassembly required temperatures for all of their products. The MSDS TECH SHEET for the product you suspect is used should have all the information required.
OP - it seems your housing is "on the bench" so I'd think you should certainly be able to easily control heat and maybe your problem is going to be actually securing the housing to apply the appropriate amount of torque. Carry it to a shop? Maybe the easiest solution.
Thank you for the replies, I will try to apply some heat and try to remove it. If this is not possible I will just leave it like that. After all, it is already out and I think that the fork has to be in place when installing again.
Help removing Clutch Fork Pivot stud
