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I might be the "only one" that doesn't know the year of The Ghost but regardless the year I believe you need to look no further than the light switch. If total functionality returns when the light switch is placed in H/L position I'd think that's all of the diagnostics required. Switch more likely than connector I'd think.
Depending on the year either exercising the rod or rotating of the control might return functionality.
OP mentioned checking fuses and I would have assumed that the OP might have walked to the rear of the car to check the tails with H/L on.
I mentioned "switch IF full functionality returned" when switch in the H/L position. If OP turns H/L on and walks to rear of car and there are still no tails, s/m, park etc then replaces fuse with known good then the switch is still the likely failure.
Just throwing out some info. I had a chinese Xentec HID fog kit from ebay installed on my car for one summer because it was the current fad. After a couple months one of the ballasts started shorting out and was popping my "TAIL" fuse repeatedly which resulted in the exact same symptoms the Ghost is experiencing. Replaced the ballast and then the other ballast started shorting. Scrapped all that junk and went back to regular philips halogen bulbs for fogs and all problems were solved
The parking lights on The Ghost are dead. No front parking lights, no fog lights, no rear parking lights, and no dashboard/gauges lights.
Headlights, and hazard lights work.
Never had this problem before.
All fuses, and bulbs are OK
What would it be?
He said he made sure all fuses were ok so if all fuses are ok then according to the wiring diagrams it should be a headlight switch issues like I mentioned earlier.
That's the fun part of helping across the internet you just have to go with whats mentioned.
OP mentioned checking fuses and I would have assumed that the OP might have walked to the rear of the car to check the tails with H/L on.
I mentioned "switch IF full functionality returned" when switch in the H/L position. If OP turns H/L on and walks to rear of car and there are still no tails, s/m, park etc then replaces fuse with known good then the switch is still the likely failure.
He said "no rear parking lights", so I assume he's talking about tail lights, since they are the same. He needs to come back and tell us if the tail lights come on in the full on position as you mentioned. So many who have light issues say, "fuses good" and that's not always the case. I'm not sure if the fog lights go through the same fuse, do you know? Also still don't know year of car.
I might be the "only one" that doesn't know the year of The Ghost
96
Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
Check the TAIL fuse...
I checked all side fuses, under the hood fuses, and they are all good.
Originally Posted by WVZR-1
OP mentioned checking fuses and I would have assumed that the OP might have walked to the rear of the car to check the tails with H/L on.
I mentioned "switch IF full functionality returned" when switch in the H/L position. If OP turns H/L on and walks to rear of car and there are still no tails, s/m, park etc then replaces fuse with known good then the switch is still the likely failure.
The front & rear lights work with the hazard lights, and turn lights only.
The dash lights do not work either with parking or headlights.
Before you order switches and start taking things apart, you should measure the voltage starting at the fuse box, and then to the switch. If you have the voltage going into the switch, but not out, then the switch is likely. There are several other things that will cause the tail light and dash lamps, to be out. You have to have 12v at the fuse for tail lamps (on both sides of fuse) first. If you're up to it, you could jump 12v to the park light connector on the switch and see if they light up.
There should be no reason to buy the dimmer and as it's been mentioned there's checks that need done. The fact that the dash is gone also hints towards the H/L switch I'd think. I believe the fuses in '96 might still have been ATO so you could probe the fuses with out removing to check fuse continuity. If it's an ATC or been changed to ATC then that's not possible.
GOOGLE ATO 15 and you should see the dimples where the conductor can be probed without removing. ATC those dimples aren't available.
You could have rolled the headlights where you wanted them with the manual *****, but that doesn't help now. I'd be surprised if flipping the switch off/on a few times damaged it. I think you lost voltage somewhere else. Did you measure voltage on both sides of the fuse? (fuse #6, passenger side dash)
You could have rolled the headlights where you wanted them with the manual *****, but that doesn't help now. I'd be surprised if flipping the switch off/on a few times damaged it. I think you lost voltage somewhere else. Did you measure voltage on both sides of the fuse? (fuse #6, passenger side dash)
This tool is awesome, and found a short on the fog light's wire.
Now all lights work, but the gauges lights are still out. The speedometer/square LCD works.
Again, I checked ALL FUSES visually, and with a voltmeter, and all checked out.
Is there a relay that controls this?
Anything direction will be appreciated.
PS. while upside down underneath the driver's side dash I noticed "coolant" drops hanging behind the pedals. I started with the #1 question; WTF?? Found out the clutch master cylinder has gone bad. I already removed it, and ordered a new one. For a second T thought I had to remove the booster, but the ratchet fit perfectly down there, and was able to remove both bolts.