Ahh so it never ends, i lost my keys at work and can't find them, vette is a 94 double sided Vats key. how can i obtain a replacement for my ignition and also my door key? i don't know the resistance of the pellet.

 

Check out "vatkey.com". They explain how you can retrieve the code using a simple ohm meter. The actual cutting of the key will probably have to be done by a locksmith. You'll probably have to have the locksmith come to your place and get the key pattern. Not a big deal but sure to cost more than the duplicate key you wish you had made. File it under "lessons learned". Good luck.

 

That's odd, my 94 and 95's had single side cut VATS keys. In your case, I think I'd see if I could find a friend in the parts dept at a Chevy dealer. It won't help you now, but the first thing I do when I get a car with one key is get a backup and hang it in a safe location. I bought a set for $11 off ebay and Lowe's cut them free for me. I did know the VATS # to order because I had the one key.

 

I lost mine at ( work ) once I lifted the seat bottom out and there it was. I had my hands full and did not notice I droped them. my 94 has a single cut too.

 

I'm sorry its single cut i was confused, I know a friend at a gm dealership so maybe i can bring my title down and see what they can do?

 

no spare key? don't believe they can help without the key or the car.

 

I tried to get GM touchup paint from the dealer. I even had the GM part #. My dealer told me they don't even keep track of part numbers from cars 20 years old. The good news is that there is a strong support network for just about everything related to our C4, starting right here.

 

No spare key, lost the door and ignition keys. So what should my plan of action be now?

Should I buy 15 different keys and see if GM knows the correct cut for the Key? Or should I Send out the PCM and get the Vats Removed, and get a new ignition switch? but then if i do that will my Key Fob work bc that i have at home but was never programed

 

My first two steps would be:

Look harder for the key and then make a spare.

Take the Vin # to the dealer and see if they can give you the VATS # and buy one off ebay. The hardest step will be to have a key cut without the original. If you have a friend at GM dealer as you said, you might be surprised what they can do if they want to.

The key won't affect the fob compatibility.

 

Thats what I'm going to do I'm going to go with my title just in case, and see what they can do. maybe they'll have the records lying around for the cylinder lock, what about the door key?

Could i just buy 15 blanks 1-15 and see which one reads, i know theres a 4 minute time out i think between, and then buy the correct VATS cylinder lock?

i don't think there going to reappear bc I'm thinking i dropped them in the street and went back next day and they were nowhere to be find, but nonetheless I'm going to take one final look tomorrow

 

the door key will be the same as the lock box in the back a locksmith might have the tool to read the vats from the ign I would call your freind first. maybe someone turned them in try the lost and found.

 

95 and double cut whatever the hell difference that might make.

 

Im going to call him, and if all else fails i'll see if i can get a mobile locksmith to look at it

 

I bet you get a extra key made.they have set of bypass resistors on ebay if all else fails.

 

Here's a chart for future reference. It's a good idea to take a reading and tuck it in you wallet or the like, just in case you want a duplicate made someday...

 

For a '94 the VATS code may or may not come with the key request the dealer will do. I'd like to think it will but regardless the mechanical codes for the original door and ignition will. The dealer will ask you for title, ID, registration or insurance card usually substitutes for title. If you've a history with the dealer the information could be NO CHARGE or maybe a fee.

When they get the codes don't have them cut them on the VATS key first. Have them cut the mechanical on a "WORK KEY" and take it home and make sure it will rotate the ignition. If it does your all set if the key request included the VATS resistance information.

I did a '95 Buick a few weeks ago and the VATS information came back with the key request. There is absolutely no guarantee and there's also no assurance they will work BUT most likely.

If they get a silly look on their face when you mention "WORK KEY" the GM # is 26007687. If they don't have a lock smith will. The work key is just a brass key that the mechanical code can be cut on to confirm it works.

If the VATS doesn't come with the key request if you could get your hands on a VATS INTERAGATOR you could do the procedure yourself to get the resistance sorted but I wouldn't worry about that now. The "key call" first.

OP - where are you located? I've got an Interagator

 

Thanks, I'm in Long Island New York. Im going to do this sometime during the week. Im going to take a long hard look tomorrow again. If nothing shows I'm going to go to the dealer and do what you said.

So your saying if they have the VATS info and key cut code should i have them make the key OR should i take the info down and ask for a work key with the key code cut on it and if it works get the VATS key made?...im not worried about the door key even though i need it to get into the car I'm sure they'll have it. its all original, the original key was worn down pretty good

 

I'd have just the work key done first for the ignition but let hem do the door, that's cheap. If the VATS resistance doesn't come back with the "key call" for sure a work key before anything else. Age and condition of car have nothing to do with what's actually been serviced. The Buick I just did had a cylinder done but the owner knew it, I used one of his old keys to check the resistance compared to the newer key before I ever got the key codes which I didn't need but was just interested in the VATS resistance.

 

I just got this thing called "tile" for Christmas and it works wonders. Pick one up for 20-30 bucks it's totally worth it. You can put it on your keys, your wallet, your dog, anything lol. It hooks up to your phone through bluetooth and if you lose whatever it is you have attached to it your phone sends a signal to the device and gives you a map of where it is, also you can make the tile ring if you think it's close by.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/281885369857?ul_noapp=true&ul_ref=http%2 53A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%25 2F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526kwid%253D1 %2526crlp%253D69982082769_324272%2526ite mid%253D281885369857%2526targetid%253D12 4340427849%2526rpc%253D0.20%2526rpc_upld _id%253D61685%2526device%253Dm%2526mpre% 253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.co m%25252Fulk%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F2 81885369857%25253Flpid%25253D82%252526ch n%25253Dps%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526google loc%253D9003692%2526poi%253D9003664%2526 campaignid%253D313895649%2526adgroupid%2 53D20919789969%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-124340427849%2526gclid%253DCj0KEQiAzai0B RCs2Yydo8yptuIBEiQAN3_lFjVBv5ghLMpmuyiSw GhF1b9f2DYPjFjjpty-53Qo2CwaApcr8P8HAQ%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D961618478679&chn=ps&lpi d=82

 

UPDATE

So i went to a gm dealership and gave my title, good news is that they had the correct door code, and got a key made for me, bad news is this. No VATS on file and the key they cut for the door, no good won't fit in the ignition. I also messed up my driver side door lock last week trying to get into the car. So at least i got into the car, but didn't see my keys in there so that negates that. SO now here is my question. First where can i get a good quality replacement ignition lock/switch cylinder with the key. Second being that one door lock cylinder is messed up I'm going to use the door key for now but will replace both door locks and use the new key for the back compartment. Any idea where to get good door cylinder locks? and lastly how hard is it to replace the ignition cylinder lock? I know its worn out because it doesn't chime anymore. For the VATS I'm assuming an interrogator or sending the PCM out to remove that but if i do that will my Key FOB still work?