I don't know that I understand your post.

You have working door key that works in the right door maybe? YES or NO

Both codes came in the key request but no VATS information? YES or NO

Did they make you a "work key" to the mechanical code of the column and it just didn't work? YES or NO

THE DOOR KEY NEVER FITS THE IGNITION UNLESS IT'S A FLEET CAR

I don't quite understand what's happened but I'm trying to absorb it.

Do you have the information the dealer got from GM?

 

They made me two keys, a door key Key H, works fine. I messed the driver side door up trying to get in, but regardless the door key the gave me WORKS. They made me a WORK key which i requested, and it won't fit into the lock cylinder in the ignition, that was a separate key the square one.

 

You're in the same exact situation I was in about 6-7 years ago. I lost my only set of keys for my 91. As in your case, GM had my door cut on file but no ignition key info (cut or VATs resistance). I bought a new ignition lock cylinder, which as WVZR-1 mentioned, comes with a work key (no VATs pellet). I installed the new lock cylinder so now the key would turn, but obviously not start the car without the proper resistance. I then got a potentiometer and used it to duplicate each of the possible resistances (from the chart on the last page). It was tedious, but not too difficult. After an afternoon of playing around with the resistances I got the car to fire. I took the newly obtained VATs resistance, along with the work key, to the dealership and they cut me a new key.

Hope this helps.

 

Won't fit or won't turn? There is a difference. If this car is a '94 and had an original cylinder a "work key" will fit but may not turn it. Work key is 100% brass.

I would take the key information if they handed it to you and the work key to another dealer to confirm they actually cut the proper code on it if it fits and just doesn't turn.

TA has presented a possible option BUT the usual potentiometer used is a 10K and it won't do a #15 VATS, it will do all others and what are the chances of it being a 15? Well. If you understand the resistors etc you can use 1K resistor + the potentiometer to get the #15 (11800)

 

I'm sorry, i meant it won't fit into the cylinder, goes in half way, i just got it cut with what was on file at the dealership. I wouldn't mind changing the ignition cylinder lock with a new key because the one on the car is worn out, however I'm sure its not an east task to swap it out.

How would I obtain and hook up a potentiometer? and where?

 

Then there is a problem with the work key. Did they charge you for the key? Should be a part # on the invoice. What is the part #? Go back and have them recut on correct blank OR take the number to a lock shop and have them do you a work key.

Post a snapshot of the work key.

 

I would call around local locksmiths and see if any have the proper tools.

 

its not a work key, sorry for the wrong term, what they gave me was a ignition key with the key code that was in the computer. the key didnt have the pellet on it obviously. SO im assuming now that the lock cylinder was replaced OR they cut it wrong. They charged me 50-60 for the key code and said if it doesnt work then its on me...


I guess what im planning on now is this......Buy a new igintion lock cylinder with the key. Somehow find out my VATS Resistance, and then get a key made with the pellet. Now I do plan on swapping this car to a manual trans, and seen two options for lock cylinders, Auto and Manual. Whats the difference between the two.

 

You don't need a lock cylinder - they cut you a key on just a single side blank and it's the incorrect length. They either need to cut you a "work key" or another VATS blank and disregard the chip. Go to a lock shop and get a "work key" or an inexpensive VATS regardless of the chip the first time. Get that cut to the mechanical code from the key request. I'll bet it rotates.

FOR THE M6 conversion:

There's a few differences in the column that can be sorted but aren't really a straight forward exchange. I can explain but it will take some images - email would work better.

YOU DO NOT NEED A LOCK CYLINDER YET likely never unless you want to change the column to 100% 6MT configuration.

Got your email and post back after you revisit!!!!!

 

UPDATE: Got everything under control now, ignition and door keys good, working on the resistance and im set, thanks again everyone for the help.

 

if you can not find a meter yet you can buy a key with a chip. chances are 1 in 14 you get the right one, I don't believe they use the first one. then buy the resistor for a buck. then do the bypass if you guessed wrong. this will at least get your car running till you find a meter.

 

a potentiometer (aka variable resistor) was already suggested above

the 15 resistors are offered in a kit on amazon if that fails !

 

Its strange you got key codes but not vats, but no matter. New ignition cylinder DOES NOT come with VATS key. The VATS code is stored in VATS module and it can't be changed or erased. VATS code "burns into module first time it gets start signal. It comes with coded blank or work key, new code will be stamped on it. The potentiometer or variable resistor needs to be jumpered in to to fine or smaller white wires at turn signal switch. The little wires go to lock cylinder. If you had an "Integrator" you would connect to wire and try to start car with work key. If it started **** would point to VATS number blank you need. Variable resistor can likely be found at Radio Shack. Use chart provided earlier and a OHM meter set resistor value to #1 value connect wires try to start. If it starts you need #1 blank if not reset to next value and retry. You must wait a minimum of 3 minutes between tries module has countdown clock if you don't wait and try early clock resets back to 3 minutes so wait 4 minutes. So this can take a while and locksmith or repair shop will want to "pass on the savings" Key codes are not stamped into lock cylinders so if you don't have a key that will turn cylinder you will need to get one. You will still need to figure out what VATS key you need. When you finally figure out what you got write down codes somewhere business card in wallet is handy along somewhere at home hopefully where you can find it just not with spare keys.

 

I have the DEI 15 resistor pack, the car actually starts with the work key, saturday I'm going to see if its bypassed and ill go from there. I'm good from here learned lot how this system works, ill be changing the lock cylinder soon maybe this spring because it doesn't chime, the contacts inside I'm sure are worn out.

 

back in the saddle again!!!!!!!!!

 

Hahah yea feels good, just need to order my electric water pump and things will be good, looking to get a new paint job, thinking about a yellow, blue or candy apple red. But one thing at a time

 

I would hook up a red temp light that you will see if the ele pump goes out.

 

I doubt you'll need a cylinder to correct your chime issue. I highly doubt!! Does the "chime" work for headlamps? If it works for headlamps and seat belts you might need the "switch" in the column but NOT the cylinder. Nearly as aggravating to change but ...

GM# 26022717 for the switch. GOOGLE for image.

This post is very close to FSM procedure and should work well for you. It's easier than for me to copy/paste and post an insert from the FSM. This is a CHIME CHECK procedure

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1556105139


Good to see where I mentioned YOU DON'T NEED was valid!!

 

I went to the stealership to get an ignition key. They can get you the key cut code with the VIN with proof that you own the car. However, they no longer have the ability to retrieve the VAT key information for the specific key needed. Hence, the need to get a locksmith that has the means to read the vats from the ignition, and can interrogate the system to recover it.

 

I doubt that - there maybe an occasion when the VATS info isn't retrieved but certainly NOT always. The VATS information is a 2 letter code that the dealer/locksmith needs to convert. A newer employee might not understand what they retrieved. I'd revisit the 'dealership' and ask again that they retrieve key information.

What year was the car you requested codes for? I was told '90 and newer generally key and VATS retrieved, '89 and earlier key code is a maybe and of course the VATS wouldn't be if the keys weren't.