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Trying to drop the exhaust in one piece. There is a clamp across the rear of the front Y-pipe, several inches in front of the catalytic converter. I used Pb Blaster but the bolts just spin. There is a square nut on top of the clamp that I imagine was originally welded, but is now loose. I cannot come up with a tool that fits in the limited space to hold the rusted nut so that I can remove the clamp. Any suggestions? Is this clamp really necessary for support, or can I just cut it off?
that clamp (also part of the heat shield) also bolts to the rear of the transmission housing. see if you can get access to those bolts. there's two, and i'm thinking you need 10mm tooling. BTW, I've dropped an 85's exhaust in one piece.
that clamp (also part of the heat shield) also bolts to the rear of the transmission housing. see if you can get access to those bolts. there's two, and i'm thinking you need 10mm tooling. BTW, I've dropped an 85's exhaust in one piece.
Thanks for the reply, Joe. I looked again and the clamp does feel like it's bolted to the transmission, but I can't see or access anything above it because the heat shield is in the way. I think I'm going to have to grind off the heads of the bolts, which will release the clamp's hold on the y-pipe. I should easily be able to replace the bolts when I reassemble.
Thanks for the reply, Joe. I looked again and the clamp does feel like it's bolted to the transmission, but I can't see or access anything above it because the heat shield is in the way. I think I'm going to have to grind off the heads of the bolts, which will release the clamp's hold on the y-pipe. I should easily be able to replace the bolts when I reassemble.
that may be your only option. good luck. as a side note, replace any and all hardware, at least as much as you can, with SS, and "goop" everything with hi-temp anti-seize. at least you'll make it easier for the next guy. try permatex #77134 - nickel based and good for 2400 degrees. BTW, don't replace the exhaust manifold nuts with any type of GM OE stuff. they're plain steel, and the rust like crazy. I used copper (alloy) flanged, locknuts (M10-1.5), BMW p/n 18301737774. you can buy them all day long on fleabay for less than a couple bucks a piece. I have used stainless, and brass alloy, plain nuts in the past, but these are flanged and a (prevailing torque) locking design - thought i'd give them a try.
that may be your only option. good luck. as a side note, replace any and all hardware, at least as much as you can, with SS, and "goop" everything with hi-temp anti-seize. at least you'll make it easier for the next guy. try permatex #77134 - nickel based and good for 2400 degrees. BTW, don't replace the exhaust manifold nuts with any type of GM OE stuff. they're plain steel, and the rust like crazy. I used copper (alloy) flanged, locknuts (M10-1.5), BMW p/n 18301737774. you can buy them all day long on fleabay for around a couple bucks a piece. I have used stainless, and brass alloy, plain nuts in the past, but these are flanged and a (prevailing torque) locking design - thought i'd give them a try.
The exhaust is out and in the yard. I did have to grind off the bolt heads but that did the trick. And I can see the small bolts holding on the heat shield, but I don't need to remove them now. My original intent was to replace the main u-joints, so now I have to get the driveshaft out. Do you have any tips or can you suggest a good thread on moving or removing the C-beam? Thanks again.
The exhaust is out and in the yard. I did have to grind off the bolt heads but that did the trick. And I can see the small bolts holding on the heat shield, but I don't need to remove them now. My original intent was to replace the main u-joints, so now I have to get the driveshaft out. Do you have any tips or can you suggest a good thread on moving or removing the C-beam? Thanks again.
NO NEED TO REMOVE THE "C" SUPPORT BEAM! first thing is to mark the orientation of the drive shaft in relationship to the differential yoke. unbolt the u-joint straps at the rear end, slide it forward slightly and drop it down until you have interference. you will note this interference is with a sheet metal flange near the rear end of the driveshaft. take a small grinder, and remove about 1/8 X 1.5 inches from the flange. the grinding area is very small, and outside the spot welds. it will have no impact on the cars structural integrity. the drive shaft should drop out without issues.
85 exhaust
