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C4 Corvette removal

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Old Jun 18, 2016 | 06:52 AM
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Default C4 Corvette removal

Hello Everybody,

I am replacing my rear bumper on my 1989 Corvette is there a video on how to remove it.

Thank you
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Old Jun 18, 2016 | 09:05 AM
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It isn't difficult at all.

There are bolts along the entire periphery of the bumper (cover), which extends from the rear wheel well, then up and over and ending at the opposite wheel well.

Access to the fender portion and toward the top is from below. To get to the top bolts I removed the license plate, reached behind each tail light and removed them, then used the combination of openings to get to each of the periphery bolts. Once the cover is off, then you can remove the rear bumper, if need be.

Getting the cover off is easy. If I recall, I did it in about 20 minutes. Getting it reinstalled with a clean transition from the body to the bumper was a 2-person job. The cover flexes a little, and one person needs to push/hold it in place while the other tightens the nuts.

Depending on how well the bumper cover conforms to the body (and your degree of ACD!) it might take a couple hours to get it right - or at least it did me!

Good luck on finding a video.
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Old Jun 19, 2016 | 04:44 PM
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I just did the early C4 to late C4 bumper cover swap on my 84'. I found it quite easy to get the new rear cover lined up and I did it myself. (The front cover is another terrible story) Along the top of the cover they use screws with small bolt heads and the sides and corners use bolts. It was a lot easier than I expected it to be.

I took my plate off and the reverse light housings out and pulled the bumper cover out to get the inside tailights out first. Then used the inside tailight holes to get the outside lights out. Then the screws and bolts holding the cover are pretty easy to get with a 1/4 ratchet and socket.

I also put the back end of my car on ramps and that made it much easier than bending over. Good luck!
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Old Jun 19, 2016 | 07:46 PM
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I have done more than I care to remember.

1.) Slightly raise the car with a jack. (This depends on your suspension)
2.) Remove the three 10mm headed bolts that hold your black plastic inner wheel well liners and they are behind the wheel at the frame area.
3.) Using a T-15 Torx socket...remove the screws that hold the black plastic wheel well liner to your rear bumper and the front of the quarter panels area.
4.) There should be one 10mm headed screw in the rear portion of the black plastic liner that goes to a support bracket that needs to be removed ON EACH SIDE.
5.) Remove license plate.
6.) Remove BOTH reverse light housings ( each has two 7mm screws).
7.) Behind each reverse light is a 10mm nut and carriage bolt that needs to be removed.
8.) Remove the two inner taillights using a 10mm socket and ratchet or wrench. In some cases...removing the light from the housing will make it easier to get to the 10mm bolts.
9.) Remove the outer taillights using the same tool.
10.) Remove the two 10mm bolts that are at the very bottom inside edge of the bumper cover being bolted to the absorbed.
11.) A 7mm wrench or socket will get the bolts across the top of the bumper cover. The two by the fuel door area are the worst of them
12.) Using a 10mm socket...remove the nuts that go down each side where the quarter panel curves downwards. The left side where the antenna is located can be a bit tricky.
13.) Then ..on each side above your side marker light ( which is why I take out the wheel liner) remove those two nuts on each side.
14.) Be careful so the wiring going to your license plate light is not damaged...and if you have a third brake light in the cover also.

Thats it.

DUB
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Old Jun 19, 2016 | 10:24 PM
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Forst of all thank you all.

I did this today. And i did not think it was easy. Straight forward yes but not easy. I did jack up the car. A big help and a head lamp also helped a lot.
One thing. I took off a 1989 rear bumper and installed a 1987 bumper. Are they supposed to be interchangeable. Because the 87 seems a little narrower, at the top.
The other thing that was a problem was the bolts that are press fit into the metal flange. Several of them broke. So if someone is planning to do this. You should use a lot of WD 40 on the nuts.
I am probably getting rid of the power antenna.

Oh and if you remove the wheel wells you have easy access to the bolts behind the lights.

Take care and thank you. And for those it applies to Happy Fathers DAy
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Old Jun 22, 2016 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jseremba
Forst of all thank you all.

I did this today. And i did not think it was easy. Straight forward yes but not easy.
You are quite welcome and I am glad you asked for help in this to make it hopefully not a painful as it could have been.

Well ...hopefully you understand that the replies are from people who have done it a lot...and it is simple versus some of the other panels that I have to service. It is nothing but nuts and screws...which is a JOY to do sometimes. SORRY for making it out like it would be like a 'walk in the park' if I did that. If you want a really FUN job...bond on new aprons on a 1997 and new Corvette...obviously it is do-able...but that is not easy. I am glad you got it....that is the main thing.

Originally Posted by jseremba
I took off a 1989 rear bumper and installed a 1987 bumper. Are they supposed to be interchangeable. Because the 87 seems a little narrower, at the top.
Foe the record..The rear covers are the same....the one you put on may have shrunk...but the cover used on a 1984 is the same as that of a 1990....unless it is a 1990 ZR-1

Originally Posted by jseremba
The other thing that was a problem was the bolts that are press fit into the metal flange. Several of them broke. So if someone is planning to do this. You should use a lot of WD 40 on the nuts.
**** PROFESSIONAL OPINION****
From a body man/ painters view point....IF you use a penetrating oil to help out these nuts. Do not spray it and soak them to death because you WILL get it on the backside of your SMC panel which is not good. When I do this and encounter these nuts being seized up..I use a Q-tip and apply my mixture to the stud and nut and keep it under control.

Originally Posted by jseremba
Oh and if you remove the wheel wells you have easy access to the bolts behind the lights.
Yes... I know as I wrote in steps 2,3 and 4 in my above description and I am glad you tried. It provides you an option to get to some of the nuts and fasteners.

DUB

Last edited by DUB; Jun 22, 2016 at 06:53 PM.
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 01:00 AM
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See?!? You didn't need a u-toob!
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Old Jun 26, 2016 | 12:30 AM
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When i was upgrading my fuel pump i noticed how easily i could get the tail lights out, so i replaced all 4 while i was there.

Lots of room to work with the fuel pump removed...
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Old Jun 26, 2016 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Gibbles
When i was upgrading my fuel pump i noticed how easily i could get the tail lights out, so i replaced all 4 while i was there.

Lots of room to work with the fuel pump removed...
?????? Kinda confused...because your fuel pump is in the fuel tank and attached to the sending unit which is not in the way of servicing taillights....because servicing the fuel pump does not require taking out or dropping the fuel tank to do so.

Oh well...you got it done and that is all that matters.

DUB
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Old Jun 28, 2016 | 07:27 AM
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Try it next time your in there!

I tried the licence plate thing, the prior owner had changed a bulb and left a bolt out of one of the tails.

With the pump out i had plenty of room to get my arm in there!

And it's the filler neck being removed that opens up so much space.

Last edited by Gibbles; Jun 28, 2016 at 07:29 AM.
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Old Jun 28, 2016 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Gibbles
Try it next time your in there!

I tried the licence plate thing, the prior owner had changed a bulb and left a bolt out of one of the tails.

With the pump out i had plenty of room to get my arm in there!

And it's the filler neck being removed that opens up so much space.
I now understand.

I will have to pass....because IF I am having to replace a taillight bulb and the sending unit needs no service work....I will remove the license plate....back up light housings and be done before you know it.

But I will check it out the next time when I have a sending unit out of a 1984-1990 and see about your method.

DUB
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