Lost keys
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 16,089
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From: Dallas Texas
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Lost keys
I had some made a few days ago. Got them this morning, door key works, but the ignition key doesn't. It won't even enter. May sound like a dumb question, but what should I do? I know my ohms from my lost key.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
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Your not making Texas look good. Go to a trusted dealer give them the vats code and the vin number and get the right key made. What did it ohm out to? They might need proof of ownership if they don't know you.
Last edited by antfarmer2; Jun 27, 2016 at 01:51 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2,692
Likes: 349
From: Sacramento California
If you lost the keys, what did you use as the basis for making the new keys? If you took the VIN to a dealer and ended up with useless keys, they have not delivered what you paid for... unless the lock cylinders were changed at some point. It's possible they got the VATS code wrong, but the key should still physically fit the ignition cylinder.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 6,192
Likes: 750
From: near the thumb in the mitten
There are no burrs or jagged edges from where key was cut?
There is only one series of signal sided VATS key blanks 15 different chips. Even if its the wrong blank number you still should be able to insert it all the way in cylinder. If it's coded correctly and the wrong blank it will turn to start, but wont crank. If you have bypassed VATS and are a plain steel key blank. You may have wrong blank they are letter coded and a locksmith should be able to come up with correct letter code cut to cylinder code. If you are still using VATS there is a chance its a deformed blank, it is also possible tumblers in cylinder are jammed. Dealer or locksmith have no way to know was cylinder was replaced, or if someone for some crazy reason changed VATS code. They can ,depending on year, pull original key coded and VATS key blank number. If you have no key, with dry lube (graphite) and a paper clip straightened out you could try to "strafe" tumblers free. You could get uncut proper blank if it will go in; the cut key blank is bad and get uncut key coded. If not cylinder tumblers are stuck and you will need cylinder and uncut key can be coded to new cylinder.
There is only one series of signal sided VATS key blanks 15 different chips. Even if its the wrong blank number you still should be able to insert it all the way in cylinder. If it's coded correctly and the wrong blank it will turn to start, but wont crank. If you have bypassed VATS and are a plain steel key blank. You may have wrong blank they are letter coded and a locksmith should be able to come up with correct letter code cut to cylinder code. If you are still using VATS there is a chance its a deformed blank, it is also possible tumblers in cylinder are jammed. Dealer or locksmith have no way to know was cylinder was replaced, or if someone for some crazy reason changed VATS code. They can ,depending on year, pull original key coded and VATS key blank number. If you have no key, with dry lube (graphite) and a paper clip straightened out you could try to "strafe" tumblers free. You could get uncut proper blank if it will go in; the cut key blank is bad and get uncut key coded. If not cylinder tumblers are stuck and you will need cylinder and uncut key can be coded to new cylinder.
Last edited by Kevova; Jun 27, 2016 at 04:37 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 16,089
Likes: 819
From: Dallas Texas
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Sorry to disappoint.
My VIN, and and my ohm.
The locksmith called me, and said he made two keys. With the first one being bad. He gave me that one by mistake. Called me to go pick up the good one. It works
Thanks for the help everyone. Dealer wanted $85, locksmith charged me $20.
If you lost the keys, what did you use as the basis for making the new keys? If you took the VIN to a dealer and ended up with useless keys, they have not delivered what you paid for... unless the lock cylinders were changed at some point. It's possible they got the VATS code wrong, but the key should still physically fit the ignition cylinder.
There are no burrs or jagged edges from where key was cut?
There is only one series of signal sided VATS key blanks 15 different chips. Even if its the wrong blank number you still should be able to insert it all the way in cylinder. If it's coded correctly and the wrong blank it will turn to start, but wont crank. If you have bypassed VATS and are a plain steel key blank. You may have wrong blank they are letter coded and a locksmith should be able to come up with correct letter code cut to cylinder code. If you are still using VATS there is a chance its a deformed blank, it is also possible tumblers in cylinder are jammed. Do you still have a working key? If so there is something wrong with blank. If you have no key, with dry lube (graphite) and a paper clip straightened out you could try to "strafe" tumblers free. You could get uncut proper blank if it will go in; the cut key blank is bad and get uncut key coded. If not cylinder tumblers are stuck and you will need cylinder and uncut key can be coded to new cylinder.
There is only one series of signal sided VATS key blanks 15 different chips. Even if its the wrong blank number you still should be able to insert it all the way in cylinder. If it's coded correctly and the wrong blank it will turn to start, but wont crank. If you have bypassed VATS and are a plain steel key blank. You may have wrong blank they are letter coded and a locksmith should be able to come up with correct letter code cut to cylinder code. If you are still using VATS there is a chance its a deformed blank, it is also possible tumblers in cylinder are jammed. Do you still have a working key? If so there is something wrong with blank. If you have no key, with dry lube (graphite) and a paper clip straightened out you could try to "strafe" tumblers free. You could get uncut proper blank if it will go in; the cut key blank is bad and get uncut key coded. If not cylinder tumblers are stuck and you will need cylinder and uncut key can be coded to new cylinder.
Thanks for the help everyone. Dealer wanted $85, locksmith charged me $20.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,714
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Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Unmodified
I had the same problem with a second keyset, using a hardware store.
Ignition key, they used the wrong key blank when cutting the key.
Keep in mind there are different blanks for these ohm keys and are expensive, some places keep few in stock.
Ignition key, they used the wrong key blank when cutting the key.
Keep in mind there are different blanks for these ohm keys and are expensive, some places keep few in stock.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,429
Likes: 605
From: Minneapolis Mn
I had something similar while helping out a friend. She needed an extra key cut for her car so went to the GM dealer. They read the key and cut a new one. Worked in the lock but car wouldn't turn over. I grabbed my ohm meter and checked the old vs new keys, different ohm values. Turned out they read the value right then used the wrong blank, so even the dealers can make a mistake.
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Team Owner
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I had something similar while helping out a friend. She needed an extra key cut for her car so went to the GM dealer. They read the key and cut a new one. Worked in the lock but car wouldn't turn over. I grabbed my ohm meter and checked the old vs new keys, different ohm values. Turned out they read the value right then used the wrong blank, so even the dealers can make a mistake.
I'm NOT right around the corner from a dealer so I check as much as possible before walking out the door!
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,429
Likes: 605
From: Minneapolis Mn
That's unusual - customarily a dealer will "drop" the replacement key to verify packaging before doing the mechanical cut. Actually I've always asked that they do and never assumed so .......
I'm NOT right around the corner from a dealer so I check as much as possible before walking out the door!
I'm NOT right around the corner from a dealer so I check as much as possible before walking out the door!
Anyway, the dealer said whoever stocked the keys put them in the 'wrong' bins, so they picked up a key from the right spot but it was the wrong blank. When I took it back to get corrected I took an Ohm meter along with me to insure they got it right the 2d time.
My preferred location was a local locksmith who I previously used for all my keys, but they closed their doors so that option is gone and I went to the Chevy-Buick dealer instead. I don't know if they checked the key or not other than maybe the cutting, they did it all in-back which isn't visible from the customer area of the parts department.
Last edited by hcbph; Jun 29, 2016 at 04:14 PM.