I have been dealing with all sorts of crazy issues, mostly minor inconveniences, with my '93 Ruby Automatic 'Vert, 28K miles, and have determined that they are coming from a faulty ignition switch. Although I have a FSM and GM Tech 1 Scanner a simple wiggle of the key while the engine is idling causes the VATs system to kick in among other issues, horn beeps, PKE & ASR light come on and if I turn off the engine have to wait at least 5 minutes for system to reset. I can walk away from the Ruby, key and PKE transmitter in hand and return 10 minutes later and everything functions fine including the PKE. Since I don't want to get stranded I have determined that the switch either has worn or loose components inside. So my question is what am I looking at in terms of cost for parts and labor to replace the faulty switch from my local Corvette Shop. I have read the FSM and watched online videos of the procedure I am capable of certain repairs and maintenance on my 'Vette this is beyond my technical abilities. BTW, the Ruby is bone stock original and almost ready for Bloomington Judging so want to use OE parts. Thanks for reading and look forward to your replies.
Regards,
Mark

 

you sure you key is any good. have you tried your spare key and see if it does the same thing?

 

cheaper to get a new key or do some cleaning.

 

First, so I am clear, are we talking about the ignition switch or the ignition lock cylinder ??

Make that determination and just call around. You should be able to get a quote over the phone without too much hassle.

Neither the ignition switch or the lock cylinder are expensive parts. Neither are particularly difficult to replace for a competent tech. I would think any more than 2 hours labor plus parts is the most you would have to pay for replacement of either component.

 

The switch isn't that bad to replace, just in a bad location. Its the same switch GM had used for years, and is readily available. I'm guessing less than two hours labor. Its on the column about 12" down, held by two screws. I don't think the cylinder is the problem, once the car is started, its out of the circuit.

 

I have a fairly new extra set of keys w/PKE and same symptons.

Yup, cleaned both sets with alcohol with same issues. Many thanks for the reply.

I guess it's the ignition lock cylinder since that contains the wires to the VATS.

Thanks. That's what I have seen viewing the diagram of the switch. I am pretty sure that the switch is not GM model specific to the Corvette.

 

You could do the vats bypass cheap kits on ebay.

 

Thanks, but want to keep the 'Vett original for Bloomington, plus I feel that VATS gets a bad rap, when working properly. Further, would defeating the VATS also mess up my functioning PKE?

 

The vats has nothing to do with the PKE. And I understand keeping it original as mine is. But it would be a cheap fast easy fix to keep you from getting stranded.

 

Thanks for the advice. I had checked into defeating the dreaded VATS but from the what I have seen online it's just as complex as just fixing the problem. I would hate to pay my mechanic to undo something that I could have possibly screwed up. I really thought that the VATS and PKE have something in common after reading some info by Gordon Killebrew on Corvette Trouble Shooting. I wish I only knew what Gordon K. has forgotten when it comes to our beloved C-4.

 

Don't have to program it out just unhook the wire and plug the right resistor in.

 

Question for ya. I know what my resistor code is, so if I did the VATS bypass and no more problems that would pretty much determine that my ignition is the culprit. I thought the resistor has to be soldered not plugged in.

 

I know what you are talking about, I had 1989 that gave me trouble for years, but always manager to get it started, and never got it towed.
I have finally had enough, and dropped it off at local dealership.
I was told way back when there was TSB to replace the ignitions cylinder with new set of keys, BUT TSB are only done under warranty, it wasn't safety recall.
So I was fed up, and just told them FIX IT!

It wasn't cheap, but I never had another issue for 15 years after the fix again. Yes when this was happening installed the by-pass, it still didn't fix the problem, don't waste your money.

Good luck!

 

You pretty much sealed the deal with the ignition lock cylinder replacement. I knew there was a TSB regarding the VATS and the fix but unfortunately our Corvettes are now over 25 years old and so are the parts. The key wiggle, which I had seen in an older post, pretty much confirmed that my problems are in the ignition lock cylinder and feel that the VATS bypass is just a bandaid. Would rather be able to drive my Ruby to my Corvette mechanic rather then have it put on a flatbed after it leaves me stranded in the middle of nowhere. Thanks to all the replies and I will post when the ignition is replaced. Hard to believe that I have been on the CF for over 15 years and still remember the first fix was to my Sport Seat lumbar motor with the cheap fix of a rubber latex glove to repair the cheap diaphram. Amazing that the lumbar support motors are still working fine on a $.50 fix. I have given advice over the years and now appreciate the responses.
Thanks to all
Mark

 

Trust me have confidents that when you leave home, you can get back.
I use take that Corvette on lot of road trips, and always worried about getting back. After I had that done, never worried again or had problem, which made going on road trips lot more enjoyable.

 

Once the car is started, the cylinder/VATS is out of the circuit. Its only used in starting. I think what you are experiencing is the rod from the tumbler hitting (jiggling) the ignition switch down on the column, causing the contacts in the switch to open/short (remember its battery voltage...a lot of current). A very common problem. Now there are a few mechanical pieces between the cylinder and the rod, but for purposes of this discussion, not important. Its possible you have contact problems in the cylinder, but that would show up as unable to start the car, not having it die. The shorting ignition switch will cause a lot of strange problems.

 

Fred:
Many thanks for your post. As I stated in my original post, the engine does not "die" but runs great even after I "giggle" the key in the ignition and that is when the PKE, ASR lights come on in the DIC. Also, if the door is open the interior lights might flicker as well and the center LCD will go blank, periodically. Once this occurs, and I turn off the engine and try to restart it will go into VATS security mode. All lights and accessories (radio, headlights etc.) will function but VATS prevents me from starting and no chime from key in ignition. The engine will not crank until I wait 3-5 minutes. At that point, my PKE will unlock the drivers door, chime will work when key is placed in ignition and will start fine. Key removed and horn will sound when door is closed and walk away from the car so no issue with the PKE fob. My TECH 1A w/updated MSC does not show any codes to use for diagnostic work so I am at the mercy of my C-4 mechanic who is familiar with the quirks and idiosyncrasies of this generation. Obviously I am open to all suggestions from the C4 forum on trouble shooting. FWIW, the battery is new, showing 12.6 on my VM(Battery Tender connected when not in use) and I have cleaned all the ground points including the one directly to the starter and underneath the battery which was a couple hours of quality time with my Ruby.
Regards,
Mark

 

The only function of the cylinder electrically is to be a conduit of the risistance of the key to the BCM and then to the ECM. Once the car is running, you should be able to connect and disconnect the VATS wire, and the car should run just fine. It sounds as if when you jiggle the key, it is either spiking the voltage or momentarily shutting the car off. The only thing that could do that is the ignition switch.

 

Fred:
Funny you mentioned the spiking of the voltage. With the car idling and the LCD digital volt on, it will show 14.3 and then begins to rise to 15-16 and then to 17 which will immediately cause the numerous issues (PKE/ASR light, loss of digital display etc.) so it sounds like the spike in voltage you are referring to. although the engine does not shut off and I have not fried the battery (the alternator has been cleared as ok). Hence, my diagnosis of the ignition switch as the culprit. When I explained these issues to my Corvette mechanic, although he still wants to perform a diagnostic on the car first, he feels that everything is pointing to the faulty ignition switch.
Mark