Okay, well the stereo is after market, but installed at a stereo shop. Started the car, radio came on windows went up and down. Shut it off, removed the key and the stereo stayed on and the windows still went up and down. Opened the door and stereo shut off and windows wouldn't move.

 

I'd think that indicates the ajar is operating correctly.

Opening the door I believe your courtesy seems to be acting correctly. There should be a delay and then the courtesy lights go out. You mention "buzzer"(key in ignition door opened event) but maybe you mean CHIME? Go to 8D section of the FSM and there's a procedure to do CCM diagnostics. Courtesy lamps are used as an example I believe. 8A-51 and 8A-76 might be interesting reads.

Your '93 has PKE - do you use it? I've never had a newer with PKE and thought I'd ask. PKE & CCM I believe are intertwined in wake-ups.

2 batteries in 6 months? That might suggest looking further into the electronics. Has the 2nd battery been drained to the point that there's a "no start", slow crank or other deficiency? You asked about ajar and everyone only commented regarding the ajar. I was going to ask but thought it could maybe construed as "interference".

Was the first battery a DUD? Checked and confirmed? Is the 2nd the same brand(warranty free replacement)? Was there a "parasitic draw" test done before the second battery?

Depending upon your answers maybe there's a "what's next" that's appropriate.

 

I just spoke with a service tech from a local GMdealership. He thinks that the buzzer should not come on just because I open the door, only the lights should come on. He thinks the buzzer (BZZZZZZZZZ) is a reminder that the key is in the ignition. Is there anyway you could open your door and see if you get a buzzing noise just by opening the door? I found a new ignition switch but don't want to just throw money at if I''m not sure.
I have a PKE but am not using it and need to reprogram it.
The first battery was killed because the alternator went out. The new battery has not been drained low enough to kill it.
I believe there is a parasitic drain and believe it to be the bzzzzing every time I open the door.

 

I can't - battery is removed from car. It would be "SPRINGTIME" I'm quite sure it should NOT!!

Many others can I'm sure.

KEY-IN CYLINDER is actuated by an actuating tab on the cylinder and NOT the ignition switch. I don't know which you actually meant. If the CCM is seeing the key in the cylinder there's a substantial draw. See 6D1-6

This post has a very good snapshot of key presence switch:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1593056839

 

I have been looking at those pages for the past two weeks and find nothing. Another local dealership says the headlights, seatbelts and ignition switch are the only reaseon the thing should chime or buzz. It might be time to take it to the shop.

 

I don't believe it's time for a trip to the shop yet BUT if you've a "relationship" with either you've spoken to then it's a "MAYBE". You can do so many checks using the DIC/CCM inquiry on your '93 so I'd really exhaust all of the DIY diagnostics available first. Do you have a DMM and are you familiar with the "parasitic draw" diagnostics?

 

No I do not and am not familiar.

 

Can anyone provide me with instructions on how to remove/replace the Ignition switch on my 93?????

 

Switch or "key & cylinder"?

 

key and cylinder

 

You need to disable the SIR, remove the air-bag, you'll need a steering wheel puller, a lock plate compressor(both are likely loaners from a local AP store). In your case the FSM has quite good instructions. Steering wheel bolts I believe are 5/16-18 UNC, try whats with the loaner, don't force. Buy new correct thread and length if you must.

Air bag is T30 I believe and the lock cylinder retainer is T20. Once the lock plate is removed the SIR coil I believe can be lifted and moved aside, directional switch a bit more complicated. Pay attention to how the SIR coil is oriented to the steering shaft.

You realize that when you replace the cylinder and keys your current keys will no longer be of any use? You'll need a new key to match the mechanical code of the work-key in the cylinder and with a correct resistance value of your current key. Get's expensive!

Perhaps you maybe first try the key-presence switch? GM# I believe is 26022717 and it's cheap.

USER ID whobub just did this last month so I'm sure it's all "fresh in the mind" - perhaps message him or post to his thread and if he's subscribed to his posts he'll receive an email and post back. I added a link to my post #24

Here's the link again:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1593056839

It's much easier for me to just do it rather than try to explain, I haven't been in a Saginaw column for maybe 8 or so years. I'd have to take one I have here apart to help further and I don't have time.

USER ID pcolt94 has done it a time or two also. He posted amendments/comments to a thread that's relevant years ago. The link I provided for Saginaw column isn't available any longer from "domestic misfits" but there's other relevant posts around.

He has an email tag with his USER ID - maybe message him. He's quite knowledgeable and helpful. He!! maybe he'll see this thread.

 

WVZR-1, where is the key presence switch located? I aquired a new ignition switch, hopefully I can get it installed this week. Since the column is going to be disassembled I might as well have them replace that switch also. Have to go searchng to find a new presence switch today and tomorrow.

 

The link I posted "twice" in this thread, in that thread in post #10 there's multiple images.

 

Thank you.

 

Key & cylinder I'm sure BUT have you had a key or keys cut to use with the new cylinder? I assumed that VATS isn't bypassed. If a dealer is doing this you could ask I guess that they use a VATS Interrogator to confirm crank, and run before cutting the new keys. They or anyone with an Interrogator could do that using the "work-key" provided with the new part.

 

Yes I had keys cut yesterday. They are VATS keys and the VATS has not been bypassed. I found a key presence switch online but cannot order until tomorrow.

 

Buy "LOCAL" - I'd think you'll have no issues locating

 

The switch is not availible locally. I checked every place around here and nobody has one. I found one in Michigan on-line. So I will have to order it tomorrow.

 

I just ordered the switch , it's coming from Billings Montana, should be here by weeks end. Thanks for all the help WVZR-1 so far so good.

 

Well I got the vet out of the shop Tuesday. They replaced the key indicator and that stopped the chime from going off when ever it wanted to. They also determined the the dash dimmer switch was going bad. I ordered one from Penn. and it should be here tomorrow or Saturday. Thanks for all the help.