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smoke inside - help

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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 12:52 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 383vett
And that's why GM uses their version of Alumaseal in every LS motor they release.
I had a head gasket leak in my Tahoe 350 so I tried the aluminum powder treatment. It sealed the problem with no side issues for the several years after that I owned it.
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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 01:54 PM
  #22  
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fair enough, sorry if it sounded like I was pooh-poohing the suggestion. I did try your suggestion in my 1985 to fix a head gasket leak. Unfortunately in my case for the head gasket it did not work, I ended up pulling the heads in doing the job. It was at that time that I realized how occlusive that material can be , It had started to plug two of the coolant passages above cylinder number seven. My understanding of how the chemistry works, it is at a depressurization site i.e., a leak, the chemical turns to a gel and eventually seals over the whole if it is not so big that it can't seal it entirely. In my case and a head gasket it didn't work. When I saw all the buildup in the cylinder head of this material it was rather scary and I decided I would never use that type of material again. In my case I used something called Irontite.


it is not true that the stuff will come out of solution and plug up your system like so many people believe. There needs to be a depressurization experience for the particles to precipitate.
My understanding of why GM puts this type of material in the new LS engine, is to deal with any issues before they get so big that this type of solution will not work, as in my 1985. The whole was too big, and the gel would not hold against the pressure of the cylinder. If it had been in the cooling system since day one, it is very possible that as a small leak forms it is covered over by this material.

Originally Posted by 383vett
I did my heater core years ago and I know what is involved. Just providing an alternative.


And that's why GM uses their version of Alumaseal in every LS motor they release.
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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 02:36 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by scuba717
If it's the heater core, your windows will be covered with a film of antifreeze. If it was actual smoke......no film. but sounds like mist from the heater core.
yes! there was a definite film on the windows that is still evident on many of those this morning - a few looked like they were lighter that others

Sean
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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 02:46 PM
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Fall time - heater cores
Winter time - mice problems
Spring time - alternators and batteries
Summer time - speeding tickets
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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 06:18 PM
  #25  
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fun fun fun

sorry one more question - there are 2 hard lines that lead to the 2 hoses that go to the heater core - can the bypass for the heater happen before the hard lines ?

Sean
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Old Nov 30, 2016 | 12:53 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by sb66
can the bypass for the heater happen before the hard lines ?
Sure.

My fix for the early systems is to pin the water control valve open.
This keeps coolant flowing year round and prevents the stagnant water from corroding the heater core.

Last edited by JrRifleCoach; Nov 30, 2016 at 12:57 AM.
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Old Nov 30, 2016 | 11:06 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
Sure.

My fix for the early systems is to pin the water control valve open.
This keeps coolant flowing year round and prevents the stagnant water from corroding the heater core.
after I replace this one - that sounds like a plan
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 11:49 AM
  #28  
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looking at replacement cores there seems to be quite a range - $30 - $100. does it matter that much? aluminum or brass and copper?

thanks
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 01:54 PM
  #29  
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oops double post

Last edited by sb66; Dec 1, 2016 at 01:55 PM.
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 03:01 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by sb66
looking at replacement cores there seems to be quite a range - $30 - $100. does it matter that much? aluminum or brass and copper?

thanks
I don't know of any aluminum ones out there. Brass/copper will work just fine. You might try Rock Auto.com
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 06:20 PM
  #31  
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rock auto and auto zone is where I found the aluminum ones - I thought I read somewhere that the brass/copper was original material - I did not know if it really mattered
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