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Engine flush question

Old Jan 14, 2017 | 12:56 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Silver96ce
One thing to beware of - make sure you correctly torque the knock sensor when reinstalling. If you over torque it, it can cause false readings and power loss. IIRC, it should be 14 ft. lbs.


My PO clearly did way beyond 14 ft-lbs, I had to take a 1/2" breaker bar to mine to get it loose!

I need some clarity on the plug, driver's side. Is that about 1 1/2 - 2" depressed circle thingy? Pop with a screw driver?

I made the mistake of thinking the dohickey with a hose was the right thing, fortunately I realized that's my OIL hose before yanking it free!
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Old Jan 14, 2017 | 07:45 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by kael

My PO clearly did way beyond 14 ft-lbs, I had to take a 1/2" breaker bar to mine to get it loose!

I need some clarity on the plug, driver's side. Is that about 1 1/2 - 2" depressed circle thingy? Pop with a screw driver?

I made the mistake of thinking the dohickey with a hose was the right thing, fortunately I realized that's my OIL hose before yanking it free!
The depressed circle thingy is a freeze plug.....you don't want to pop that out....
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Old Jan 14, 2017 | 08:38 AM
  #43  
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Power T you put in your heater hose for easier flush. I do the final rinse with the knocks out and on the ground to drain all the tap water. With the thermostate out you can run the car while doing this. I made hoses to go to the knock holes to devert the water over kill but clean as a whistle.

Last edited by antfarmer2; Jan 14, 2017 at 08:42 AM.
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