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I already have a prom installed with the egr deleted, however i do need to check with them to see if they changed any of the tables for fuel and spark or if the just eliminated the SES light. I was having some slight pinging before the new prom and after, but i suspect vacuum leaks or even timing issues. This car had a couple problems when i bought it and with 175k on the clock its bound to be a bit tired.
New injectors are just one item on the list as i a, sure these are OE
I have a TPIS block off plate for the rear of the manifold you can have for $12.00 shipped.. TPIS sells them for $15.00 plus shipping..Below is their link...WW
I have a '86 with the EGR. What is the advantage of eliminating it?
No horsepower gain. The headers i installed had no provisions for exhaust gas. I wouldn't delete it on an otherwise stock car. Your car will fail a visual & likely fail a sniffer test if you delete it.
I don't think it will fail a sniffer test because EGR only activates with a warm engine at highway speed's is my understanding. But my understanding is that EGR is actually good for the car at that speed and good for performance and good for the environment.
Last edited by VikingTrad3r; Feb 21, 2017 at 10:48 PM.
I have been reconsidering deleting bothe the EGR and the AIR. Everything on the car seems to work. I was planning on doing it to reduce clutter and make it easier to work on but now i am thinking of leaving it in there. However i did buy a chip burnt with it all deleted and hate to waste that money
The air I can understand. It does absolutely nothing. And it provides belt resistance and weight and lots of engine clutter. You can delete the air and leave the EGR. That's my plan.
I have yet to find someone who just went to a shorter belt though. I found one forum thread have a guy who said he had to go through many different belt lengths before he finally got the right belt, but he did not provide a part number for the belt.
I would love to get rid of air my catalytic converter is gutted anyways.By the way gutting the air will definitely fail you on a inspection if you live in a part of our continent that has that.
Last edited by VikingTrad3r; Feb 22, 2017 at 08:49 AM.
I think the EGR is actually a pretty smart little piece of equipment IMO. It increases fuel mileage at low loads and has no effect on Full throttle performance.
I choose to leave my EGR but delete the rest of emissions stuff.
The air I can understand. It does absolutely nothing. And it provides belt resistance and weight and lots of engine clutter. You can delete the air and leave the EGR. That's my plan.
I have yet to find someone who just went to a shorter belt though. I found one forum thread have a guy who said he had to go through many different belt lengths before he finally got the right belt, but he did not provide a part number for the belt.
I would love to get rid of air my catalytic converter is get it anyways.By the way gutting the air will definitely feel you on a inspection if you live in a part of our continent that has that.
a few years ago someone did post a belt number and how many inches shorter it needed to be. Dang if I can find that post tho.
I don't think it will fail a sniffer test because EGR only activates with a warm engine at highway speed's is my understanding. But my understanding is that EGR is actually good for the car at that speed and good for performance and good for the environment.
A bad or removed EGR valve will cause high NOx and that will fail a sniffer test. As I said, its better to leave it on unless you have a good reason to delete it.
A bad or removed EGR valve will cause high NOx and that will fail a sniffer test. As I said, its better to leave it on unless you have a good reason to delete it.
interesting. i was under the impression that egr only activated at highway conditions (high tps and rpm and temp).
interesting. i was under the impression that egr only activated at highway conditions (high tps and rpm and temp).
It should, but if failed open it would allow exhaust gass through all the time. Same with fauled check and diverter valves, which can cause the O2 sensor to read funny and probably cause the ECU to compensate with more fuel. At least that makes sense to me
interesting. i was under the impression that egr only activated at highway conditions (high tps and rpm and temp).
It does.
Cruising conditions need not necessarily be highway usage however, and the sniffer test will approximate conditions that should trigger the EGR to function so that it will cut NOx.
Friend of mine has an '88 with headers, with no hookup point for the EGR. There is a pipe coming off the rear pass side intake that I think probably used to connect to the stock manifold that has a cap-off plate on the end. I was thinking the cap-off plate would look cleaner if it was mounted directly on the manifold, and eliminate that pipe just sticking out in mid air, BUT there is some sort of single wire sensor screwed into that pipe. Can that one wire sensor be eliminated? What does it monitor?
Sorry I didn't get a picture of it.
That wire is a temperature sensor that tells the ECM that the EGR is actually flowing exhaust gas as commanded. I followed the wire back in the loom behind the distributor and unplugged it. Don't cut it, they are getting scarce and bring good money, even used.