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1985 Auto won't start. Ideas?

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Old 03-03-2017, 10:00 PM
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rick I M
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Ha ha usually pretty good with the acronyms but what's IIRC? Guessing the DVOM is for digital volt ohm meter?
Old 03-03-2017, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by rick I M
Ha ha usually pretty good with the acronyms but what's IIRC? Guessing the DVOM is for digital volt ohm meter?
If I recall correctly. Yes, that is what DVOM is
Old 03-03-2017, 10:16 PM
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rick I M
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So the frequency of the meter is too slow to catch the injector pulses accurately? Could have sworn I saw something about using a meter too. Maybe it was for the ECM harness connectors to check for an ECM signal. Guess I'll have to wait until tomorrow to check everything on the list.
Old 03-03-2017, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by rick I M
So the frequency of the meter is too slow to catch the injector pulses accurately? Could have sworn I saw something about using a meter too. Maybe it was for the ECM harness connectors to check for an ECM signal. Guess I'll have to wait until tomorrow to check everything on the list.
I'm guessing so
Old 03-04-2017, 04:00 AM
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Old 03-04-2017, 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by J W Drew
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not sure where you're at with the troubleshooting, but do you have a factory service manual? IF NOT, GET ONE! start with the basics. have you check both fuses for the injectors - i'm thinking on your 85, they would be labelled "INJ1 and INJ2." also check the fuse for the ECM. code 54 is "fuel pump low voltage" - not sure why you have this code, but check for faults and clear the code.



from your original post, the problem seems to be focused around your ignition coil. are you sure you've got everything wired correctly? reference chart C-4A, ignition system check (integral ignition coil), in your FSM (engine electrical - 6D-27). good luck....



Last edited by Joe C; 03-04-2017 at 05:49 AM.
Old 03-04-2017, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by aklim
I'm guessing so

yes, it is too slow. I went through the exact same path as you with my 85. It led me to purchase a cheap kit for I think about $25 from my local autovalue. I've actually used it once since then so hey I guess I got my value.

I look forward to conclusive information that your injectors are actually firing
Old 03-04-2017, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe C
not sure where you're at with the troubleshooting, but do you have a factory service manual? IF NOT, GET ONE! start with the basics. have you check both fuses for the injectors - i'm thinking on your 85, they would be labelled "INJ1 and INJ2." also check the fuse for the ECM. code 54 is "fuel pump low voltage" - not sure why you have this code, but check for faults and clear the code.



from your original post, the problem seems to be focused around your ignition coil. are you sure you've got everything wired correctly? reference chart C-4A, ignition system check (integral ignition coil), in your FSM (engine electrical - 6D-27). good luck....


even if I have a strong spark to #1? Going to head out to grab the noid kit soon.
Old 03-04-2017, 03:02 PM
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Picked up the noid kit and getting light so the injectors are getting power. Going to check the spark and wiring to make sure I didn't mess that up. I'll swap the ECM later too. Is it possible for the calpak to go bad too? I have an aftermarket in there but could dig out the stock chip, too.
Old 03-04-2017, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rick I M
even if I have a strong spark to #1? Going to head out to grab the noid kit soon.
IIRC, you have 8 cylinders and therefore 8 plugs. So, just because #1 is good doesn't mean #2-8 are good. Also the wires should not be leaking.
Old 03-04-2017, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by rick I M
Picked up the noid kit and getting light so the injectors are getting power. Going to check the spark and wiring to make sure I didn't mess that up. I'll swap the ECM later too. Is it possible for the calpak to go bad too? I have an aftermarket in there but could dig out the stock chip, too.
I'd check every injector plug since you already have the noid light.

I'd put the stock back just to be sure. Change one thing at a time. If the chip doesn't make it work, change the ECM. One thing at a time. Assuming the ECM is the right one, that is.
Old 03-04-2017, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
I'd check every injector plug since you already have the noid light.

I'd put the stock back just to be sure. Change one thing at a time. If the chip doesn't make it work, change the ECM. One thing at a time. Assuming the ECM is the right one, that is.

i concur with checking every injector and every sparkug
Old 03-04-2017, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
i concur with checking every injector and every sparkug
You know this, how again? One time I didn't check 1 plug in a 6 cylinder because it was harder to get to, I spent time chasing other things till we found out that it was #6
Old 03-04-2017, 03:56 PM
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hey Ak, yes im agreeing with you. on my 85 i ran into a situation where i had ine injector that had a wire pulled out at the plug. i bought a noid set and confirmed i had one dead injector. peeled the rubber booth back and discovered it was missing a wire. most likely from me pulling the injector plug off by the boot when i did the head gaskets.

OP, great job making progress on your troubleshooting. you will find the answer!
Old 03-04-2017, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
hey Ak, yes im agreeing with you. on my 85 i ran into a situation where i had ine injector that had a wire pulled out at the plug. i bought a noid set and confirmed i had one dead injector. peeled the rubber booth back and discovered it was missing a wire. most likely from me pulling the injector plug off by the boot when i did the head gaskets.

OP, great job making progress on your troubleshooting. you will find the answer!
Injector fuses. 1 works, the other must, right? Weeks before, I had that spark plug lesson and you would think that it would have sunk in but it didn't. How many more times before we learn similar lessons.
Old 03-04-2017, 04:56 PM
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I disconnected the battery and reconnected it before starting and tried to start every time I changed something. Pin under the coil was broken so I replaced it with a spare from all the coils I have around. Everything in the distributor looks fine. Swapped the Calpak for the stock. Swapped the ECM with stock Calpak. TPS looks fine. Went to check plug #1 again and seemed weaker than before/ not there but I might have had a bad ground. Started raining right when I went to check #1 so I'll have to check the rest of the plugs and injectors tomorrow. I can't exactly move the car into the barn. Give an update tomorrow!
Old 03-04-2017, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
I'd use starting fluid to see if it will even catch
totally forgot to do this. Wish I had. Caught pretty quickly but I stopped spraying as soon as I heard it. I'll try it again tomorrow to be sure. So it must be a fuel problem right? Tank is almost full (never run down to less than 1/4) of 91 from chevron. Can't be more than a few weeks old. I'll check the injectors tomorrow.

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To 1985 Auto won't start. Ideas?

Old 03-04-2017, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by rick I M
totally forgot to do this. Wish I had. Caught pretty quickly but I stopped spraying as soon as I heard it. I'll try it again tomorrow to be sure. So it must be a fuel problem right?

Tank is almost full (never run down to less than 1/4) of 91 from chevron. Can't be more than a few weeks old.

I'll check the injectors tomorrow.
Well, you are supplying "fuel" so if it runs with the "fuel" and when you stop supplying it the engine dies, it probably is the fuel. It's got air and spark then so that kinda narrows it down. Either you are having no injector pulse or there is insufficient fuel pressure or the injectors are FUBAR.

All of that doesn't matter. I run my tank down to empty. The myth about burning up the pump is about as real as the Unicorn. See THIS.

I have run the car with fuel from 4 months ago. Since I run the tank empty, it isn't an issue because the new tank will have fresh fuel. IF you are uncomfortable with that, by all means, dump some fuel stabilizer in it like Stabil.

Might be better off checking for injector pulse than to ohm test. Ohm test only tells you if the coil is, at that point, shorted out. Some of them seem to be shorted out when hot, others are shorted out all times. I'd see of they are Multecs. If they are, throw.
Old 03-05-2017, 02:13 PM
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They're the stock injectors from 1985. Seems weird to have a few go out at the same time. Then again, they are 32 years old and have about 120k on them. Fuel pump is coming on (getting 37psi when cranking) but does sound weird. Makes a knocking sound after the initial pressurization when turning the key to on and when turning the key to off.
Old 03-05-2017, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by rick I M
They're the stock injectors from 1985. Seems weird to have a few go out at the same time. Then again, they are 32 years old and have about 120k on them. Fuel pump is coming on (getting 37psi when cranking) but does sound weird. Makes a knocking sound after the initial pressurization when turning the key to on and when turning the key to off.
Actually, not if they are Multec injectors. Ethanol kills the coil and the coil is cooled by fuel surrounding the coil.

http://chevythunder.com/fuel%20_inj%20_types.jpg


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