NO! head thread strip:(
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 421
Likes: 34
From: Troy Michigan
NO! head thread strip:(
Hey guys on one bolt hole for my header install i stripped the head:/ the bolt wont torque down... but im not really up **** creak yet. the header bolts i am using are shorter than the original exhaust manifold bolts, and i used a wire and measured that the hole is about a cent-meter deeper than the header bolt could have stripped, do you think it is possible to use a spacer and my original bolt if i am very careful to follow the thread down too the still useful thread? any suggestions? i am very nervous for this. it is the bolt closest too the alternator. Thanks guys
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
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From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
with less threads you couldnt torque them down as much gotten away with it once or twice though
Look into a heli coil or thread sert then use a stud instead if you can if you use bolts a bit of antiseize can help keep the threads from galling
Look into a heli coil or thread sert then use a stud instead if you can if you use bolts a bit of antiseize can help keep the threads from galling
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 134
Likes: 6
From: Osceola WI
Some say three threads is all you need. I would run the longer bolt in and see how far till it bottoms out but dont torque, just tight enough to stop. Measure the distance from the bol head to the manifold and put washers in to take up the slack plus one extra to pull tight. Dont over torque and you may have to re-tighten periodically. If you chase that hole with a tap it might be a good idea, and clean out any chips.
I have also seen JB weld applied to the part of the bolt that rests in the hole with the threads gone. It may help stabilize the bolt and keep it tight but im not sure about the heat. I dont believe it would sieze the bolt in but you never know. However if it did, and you dont need to pull the headers you could be OK
I have also seen JB weld applied to the part of the bolt that rests in the hole with the threads gone. It may help stabilize the bolt and keep it tight but im not sure about the heat. I dont believe it would sieze the bolt in but you never know. However if it did, and you dont need to pull the headers you could be OK
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Mission Viejo CA
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 81
From: Hamilton Virginia
The epoxy trick will work better if you are installing a stud, rather than a bolt. You can let the epoxy cure on the stud before you apply any torque to the nut. If you use a bolt with epoxy, and apply torque to the bolt before the epoxy cures, you may strip the remaining good thread in the head. You do want enough torque on the fastener to prevent an exhaust gasket leak, and it won't do much good to torque a bolt after the epoxy has cured!
Or if that doesn't work, Grab the metric size bolt just a hair larger along with the proper tap and make some new threads.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 421
Likes: 34
From: Troy Michigan
hmmm I think I'll start with the stud trick, with a dab of JB weld, although I would think the JB weld would just melt off due to the high heat, it's worth a try! If not hopefully I can add thread without removing the head, but we will see!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,383
Likes: 2,736
Is this for a cast iron head L98 or a later aluminum head L98/LT1
Get a length of all thread rod or a hex bolt with no shoulder and confirm the depth of all of the others on the head before attempting anything. Your depth check using the wire doesn't confirm anything. Count the thread number in the others. Are they all equal? A person might think so but check more than one.
Get a length of all thread rod or a hex bolt with no shoulder and confirm the depth of all of the others on the head before attempting anything. Your depth check using the wire doesn't confirm anything. Count the thread number in the others. Are they all equal? A person might think so but check more than one.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Mar 14, 2017 at 07:35 AM.
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Team Owner
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Instructor
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 134
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From: Osceola WI
If it was cross threaded, you might have trouble getting a bolt or stud to start, so if you can chase that hole, even with a regular tap, it would be best. I would think you would want to avoid damaging what threads you have left.
I agree that JB welding a stud in first, let that set up and run a nut down to tighten it up enough to stop any leaks might be your best bet.
Is this in the middle of the manfold or at one of the ends? Hoping in the middle
I agree that JB welding a stud in first, let that set up and run a nut down to tighten it up enough to stop any leaks might be your best bet.
Is this in the middle of the manfold or at one of the ends? Hoping in the middle
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 421
Likes: 34
From: Troy Michigan
Sadly it's the side under the alternator, but fortunately that isn't the worst position this could have happened, it's difficult too see but I have a lot of room which is nice. I'll attempt to chase with a tap, but I'd probably have to do that by hand, Bc a drill will likely not fit.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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Sadly it's the side under the alternator, but fortunately that isn't the worst position this could have happened, it's difficult too see but I have a lot of room which is nice. I'll attempt to chase with a tap, but I'd probably have to do that by hand, Bc a drill will likely not fit.
Most actual "chasers" by quality vendors are actually "bottoming" - a chaser might certainly be harder to start than a tap but I believe it's worth the effort.