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Your block learn is maxed out at 160. The ECM is seeing a lean condition and adding fuel. You have unmetered air getting sucked into your engine from somewhere. Check your exhaust manifold bolts to see if they are tight.
if it is exhaust tick, it will be on driver side. if it is related to unmetered air. o2 is on driver side.
might want to also check for holes.
if it is exhaust tick, it will be on driver side. if it is related to unmetered air. o2 is on driver side.
might want to also check for holes.
Originally Posted by Dt86
Your block learn is maxed out at 160. The ECM is seeing a lean condition and adding fuel. You have unmetered air getting sucked into your engine from somewhere. Check your exhaust manifold bolts to see if they are tight.
To both of you, thank you so much for the tip. The suggestion matches up well with the way all of this started and the numbers i posted. I will give that a shot later tonight or tomorrow.
It also look like I'll be replacing the oil pressure sender or switch because I have been getting bad readings this whole time. I'm not quite sure the information cluster in the middle is giving me the correct information like a SES light or anything like that. The only light i see working is hatch open and I think the brake light.
To both of you, thank you so much for the tip. The suggestion matches up well with the way all of this started and the numbers i posted. I will give that a shot later tonight or tomorrow.
It also look like I'll be replacing the oil pressure sender or switch because I have been getting bad readings this whole time. I'm not quite sure the information cluster in the middle is giving me the correct information like a SES light or anything like that. The only light i see working is hatch open and I think the brake light.
stay on target with runability. prob just bulbs out.
if u have a hole/crack/gasket failure between exhaust port on heads and o2 you would both hear the exhaust tick/click AND be sucking in fresh air that would mix with your exhaust and then the o2 sensor sees a massive lean condition and i structs evm to add fuel to fix the air:fuel ratio which causes the car to run massively rich but still not rich enough to change the air fuel ratio because of the fresh air.
in the case of a 1985 this can only happen on the driver side because that is the only side with an O2 sensor.
Upon looking at the oil pressure sender, it appears as if it was not connected all along. Between today and tomorrow I'll be checking the bolts as suggested above. Are there any other signs or signals for where air might be getting in unmetered?
This will be a long post separate from my project thread because its an off string of issues.
To start, it has a miss when you give it gas upon start up. After a 5 minute or so warm up period, it runs right. Or it ran right until the next set of issues. That problem still exists.
The problem originated about 2 weeks ago when I took the car on a trip from Cincinnati to Indianapolis and back for the speedway cars and coffee. On the way there, it averaged about 85 MPH at 25-2600RPM. It ran like a dream. On the way back from the track, I hit traffic for about 20 minutes starting and stopping, then began driving at similar speeds on the way back. At around Rushville, IN the car got loud like an exhaust leak. I stopped for gas at the next exit at Love's Truck Stop. It still seemed to drive fine until I got off the highway in Cincinnati, where it was still incredibly loud and began running like garbage for the 4 or so miles home off the exit. It had a miss, backfire, and did not want to move. Upon arriving home, I thought it had bad gas because the injectors were screaming loud. It then proceeded to get quiet as I let it idle to burn what I thought was bad gas. Fallowing this, the car would not start because the starter went out. After replacing this it started.
Later that week, I drove it 25 minutes on the highway to work, where it began to get loud sounding like an exhaust leak and loud injectors. I once again let it keep idling, where it got quiet and ran smooth. On the way home, it got loud once again and made the same struggle as above off the exit. i stopped at the Meijer off the exit, where my dad met me to see what the issues were. He then drove it home where it ran loud, but had no miss in it.
We thought it was catalytic converter related, so we gutted what was remaining in the catalytic converter and adjusted the TPS.
My dad drove it earlier this week on a 20ish mile drive with no issues. Today, I drove it 5 miles, then came back in an hour, drove it home another 5 miles where it began having the same poor running and exhaust leak sounding issues.
Short Summary: Upon first driving it, it runs great. It is smooth and as quiet as a Corvette could be. After some driving, it gets loud then follows by running rough with a miss and exhaust leak type sounds.Oil pressure stays consistent at 80, water temps and oil temps are all normal.
Your oil pressure should not be at 80. If it shows 80 and doesn't move, that means you have a bad sending unit. FYI
I've been reading more on the Block Learn numbers and some have found it to be fuel injector related. Would faulty injectors be consistent with the issues and way the car is acting?
Patrick, don't worry we will get this thing figured out! I am hoping that this is not a terminal issue like bad bearings. It definitely has ticking in the bottom end and seems to be floating in and out of time. The ticking was intermittent but now occurs every time the car is running. The oil pressure sensor has since been reattached and reads 20-21 lbs at idle. The idle seems to hunt up and down and smells like it is running lean. The engine does not run hot or smoke. We are at a loss to get this thing fixed and if anyone has any ideas or suggestions we are all ears! If it is terminal, what is the best method to handle the issue. Looking for the best route to take money wise as well as performance and reliability (ie: engine rebuild or replacement crate engine). The money tree has stopped growing in our back yard and we are just looking for a reliable solution. We appreciate any help/advice! Thanks!
Patrick, don't worry we will get this thing figured out! I am hoping that this is not a terminal issue like bad bearings. It definitely has ticking in the bottom end and seems to be floating in and out of time. The ticking was intermittent but now occurs every time the car is running. The oil pressure sensor has since been reattached and reads 20-21 lbs at idle. The idle seems to hunt up and down and smells like it is running lean. The engine does not run hot or smoke. We are at a loss to get this thing fixed and if anyone has any ideas or suggestions we are all ears! If it is terminal, what is the best method to handle the issue. Looking for the best route to take money wise as well as performance and reliability (ie: engine rebuild or replacement crate engine). The money tree has stopped growing in our back yard and we are just looking for a reliable solution. We appreciate any help/advice! Thanks!
Update: A mechanic stopped over and listened to the car run from a cold start and gave us a couple ideas. Naturally he recommended a compression test and vacuum test to start and then checking each individual cylinder to determine where the noise is coming from. He stated that the noise sounded like it was valvetrain related or, based on the way it all started and the randomness of the issues, that it may be a cracked flex plate. Hopefully I'll have another update soon with good news.
So a month later, I finally got the compression test done and all cylinders still had good compression. Next steps are to isolate each cylinder to figure out if the noise is coming from one in particular but it sounding like a cracked flex plate as of now