Intake Plenum Removal
Last edited by Nathan Lord; Jun 18, 2017 at 08:35 PM.
I had to loosen the bottom bolts also to get mine out. There's a couple of bolts kind of hidden on the lower part. Use a good quality torx socket and a swivel on them and they're not too bad. You get the runners loose and it comes right out.
Don't forget to disconnect the throttle body from the plenum, the Throttle cable bracket, the power brake booster hard vacume line and the MAP sensor on the underside.
If all of that is disconnected you should be able to get the plenum out. Try grabbing it with both hands and rock it upwards it should move, I would think.
If you strip a bolt in the intake, it's really not a big deal heli-coil it and it will be fine.
I have a couple of mine like that now. Quick fix. They work perfect.
Don't overtighten. Torque the thing together as an assembly. Snugging all the bolts slowly to pull it back together.
I swear I think 90% of the board have his injectors in their cars. Everyone loves them.






Make sure you have ALL bolts removed between the intake plenum and the runners.
Make sure the vacuum tube is off (I think it goes to the power brake booster).
Tap on the plenum with a rubber hammer or a regular hammer and a block of wood. Don't try to be the circus strong man but give it a good solid whack.
If that does not move it then try loosening up the lower plenum runner bolts from the intake manifold.
If that does not work then get back to us.
For your own sake go ahead and buy a full set of Bosch III injectors from Fuel Injection Connection. You don't want to do this job more than you have to.
Buy a new gasket set for the runners and buy new O rings for the connections between the fuel lines and the fuel rails.
If you really want to be thorough then also replace the gaskets between the intake manifold and the block.
While you are in there you might want to replace the EGR valve, thermostat, fuel pressure regulator rubber and take the fuel rail apart and replace all of its O rings.
This starts to get crazy doesn't it?
This is also a great time to degrease and power wash the block, install a new water pump, flush your cooling system and clean the crud out between the radiator and AC condenser. If you have a factory oil cooling system then it is a great time to install new hoses in the system.
I did all this on my 91 a few years ago. The whole project started with a fuel injector change.
Oh yeah, EGR eliminator, repaint of the valve covers, intake system along with new plugs, wires and distributor along with some new sensors. Visa loves me.
Last edited by corvetteronw; Jun 18, 2017 at 10:16 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Don't forget to disconnect the throttle body from the plenum, the Throttle cable bracket, the power brake booster hard vacume line and the MAP sensor on the underside.
If all of that is disconnected you should be able to get the plenum out. Try grabbing it with both hands and rock it upwards it should move, I would think.
Make sure you have ALL bolts removed between the intake plenum and the runners.
Make sure the vacuum tube is off (I think it goes to the power brake booster).
Tap on the plenum with a rubber hammer or a regular hammer and a block of wood. Don't try to be the circus strong man but give it a good solid whack.
If that does not move it then try loosening up the lower plenum runner bolts from the intake manifold.
If that does not work then get back to us.
For your own sake go ahead and buy a full set of Bosch III injectors from Fuel Injection Connection. You don't want to do this job more than you have to.
Buy a new gasket set for the runners and buy new O rings for the connections between the fuel lines and the fuel rails.
If you really want to be thorough then also replace the gaskets between the intake manifold and the block.
While you are in there you might want to replace the EGR valve, thermostat, fuel pressure regulator rubber and take the fuel rail apart and replace all of its O rings.
This starts to get crazy doesn't it?
This is also a great time to degrease and power wash the block, install a new water pump, flush your cooling system and clean the crud out between the radiator and AC condenser. If you have a factory oil cooling system then it is a great time to install new hoses in the system.
I did all this on my 91 a few years ago. The whole project started with a fuel injector change.
Oh yeah, EGR eliminator, repaint of the valve covers, intake system along with new plugs, wires and distributor along with some new sensors. Visa loves me.
Don't sweet it though this should be like an afternoon job even if you have to loosen the lower runner bolts, but I don't think you will.
Last edited by DMITTZ; Jun 19, 2017 at 12:32 AM.
Last edited by Nathan Lord; Jun 19, 2017 at 03:39 PM.
https://youtu.be/TMCrylOxsOU
if I have to disconnect anything under the hood that's electrical, especially if it's related to fuel, I always disconnect the battery. just a habit on my part. it only takes an extra minute, so why take the chance?
Last edited by Joe C; Jun 21, 2017 at 02:21 AM.
The fuel rail has 4 bolts holding it down near each corner and two bolts at the fuel line connections towards the front of the motor. With the runners off that's all pretty obvious, so I'm not sure how easy it'll be to see that with them on.
Once the bolts are off, it might take a little prying to get it loose. I was replacing all of my injectors so I just pried on each injector just a little bit until it popped off. I'm extremely careful with fuel components because of the obvious risk should something not be right when it's installed, so be careful when prying! It might also be worth replacing the o-rings in the fuel rail, it's a pretty easy process.
As mentioned by Joe, I believe the FIC instructions say to put the Bosch III's in the manifold first, then carefully place the fuel rail on top. I have done it that way all three times I've had the top end apart and haven't had any problems. You definitely need to be careful though because the fuel rail edges are definitely sharp and can damage the o-rings.
I personally would just take the runners off though. This isn't a job you want to screw up and either burn up the motor or have to do a second time. I might be a bit too cautious, but I'm not a fan of making it more difficult than it has to be. :-)
The fuel rail has 4 bolts holding it down near each corner and two bolts at the fuel line connections towards the front of the motor. With the runners off that's all pretty obvious, so I'm not sure how easy it'll be to see that with them on.
Once the bolts are off, it might take a little prying to get it loose. I was replacing all of my injectors so I just pried on each injector just a little bit until it popped off. I'm extremely careful with fuel components because of the obvious risk should something not be right when it's installed, so be careful when prying! It might also be worth replacing the o-rings in the fuel rail, it's a pretty easy process.
As mentioned by Joe, I believe the FIC instructions say to put the Bosch III's in the manifold first, then carefully place the fuel rail on top. I have done it that way all three times I've had the top end apart and haven't had any problems. You definitely need to be careful though because the fuel rail edges are definitely sharp and can damage the o-rings.
I personally would just take the runners off though. This isn't a job you want to screw up and either burn up the motor or have to do a second time. I might be a bit too cautious, but I'm not a fan of making it more difficult than it has to be. :-)










