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Cost for an extensive exterior compound buff and wax...
Anyone have had this done and could share how much it ran you? My car has the usual light scratches and swirling with hard water spots on the hood. Thanks!
$130 for a porter cable DA buffer and maybe another $70-$80 in compound, polish, and buffing pads. I'm torn to recommend investment into equipment for diy vs. $200 worth of detail tlc. Just depends on the going rate for labor in your area. Two people can do a pretty good job in 4-5 hours on a C4. 8-10 man hours. Or 6 with one person doing an ok all-around detail.
I went ahead and bought a buffer with the different pads and the 3m kit with compound and such. Since I have another black SUV that needs it I'll do it myself. Think I'm into it for $160 for everything. Hope it turns out well.
If you are working on dark colors, you might have to polish twice to get out the compounding haze, but for the most part, it is easy to get good results. You will just have to figure out what pad hardness, speed, product, and pressure to run with. Everything is adjustable- just come up with a good combination.
Look on youtube for the junkman, this guy is a retired marine and has a beautiful C5, and knows his stuff. He starts with the basics, how to use the equipment, select pads, polishes, compounds, clay bars, etc. It really is an excellent step by step tutorial. I highly recommend it, especially if you're new. You can also look at Mike Phillips stuff on Auto Geek. He also shows the same stuff. But learn and find what works for you as well as your finish. I do detail my cars twice a year...Spring, and then again before winter. My wife has had several comments on her Jeep Wrangler, people asking if it's new...then their surprise when they find out it's 10 years old! Kinda makes a guy feel good. But I find it theraputic, and relaxing. Just turn the brain off, and get into it!
Try 3m perfect it liquid compound (sold at auto parts stores) with foam buffing pads and multi speed buffer. Thats what the pros use after wet sanding. I've restored a couple of cars and always did myfinish work with the aforementioned system. that will deliver the ultimate shine. When your done and you can count your teeth looking at your paint job, apply a nice coat of maguire carnauba wax. apply that with an orbital buffer
You'll achieve the ultimate shine. I realize you've already spent some dough on products so next time your up for restoring a paint finish, try it. You'll like it
Try 3m perfect it liquid compound (sold at auto parts stores) with foam buffing pads and multi speed buffer. Thats what the pros use after wet sanding. I've restored a couple of cars and always did myfinish work with the aforementioned system. that will deliver the ultimate shine. When your done and you can count your teeth looking at your paint job, apply a nice coat of maguire carnauba wax. apply that with an orbital buffer
You'll achieve the ultimate shine. I realize you've already spent some dough on products so next time your up for restoring a paint finish, try it. You'll like it
This is what I use and stems from when I was a paint helper several years ago. I'd wet sand, move to 3m perfect it liquid compound with buffer, then finally 3m swirl mark remover with foam pad. Their products work great and always gave a mirror finish.
I would like to do some work on my original paint 91 it too has the usual swerls and light scratches that you can not catch finger nail on. What concerns me is you see a lot of C4s that the clear is peeling off and I wonder how robust the finish is. What causes one to peel and another be ok?
I got the 3M 3 step kit, pads and rotary buffer. Been too hot to try yet. Think I will practice first on my 2005 Black Navigator since it's just a backup vehicle. Need to double check that I have all the correct pads. My C4 paint is 100% better so if I can get the Navigator looking good then I'll be comfortable with the C4.
Good luck just be careful buffing as not to burn through the paint. the yellow pads are good for the more severely faded paint but if I'm not mistaken they have finishing pads. as a matter of fact I bought a small buffer at harbor freight that uses self sticking buffing pads they have 3 different types with polishing pads for your final step. buffing at low speed with the three m is the way to start because you are compounding not polishing. i've used the stuff for years. back in the early 90's I restored a 69 big block roadster using acrylic enamel paint. we poured it on heavy with a bunch of coats then believe it or not we dry sanded the entire car with 600 grit and compunded with the 3m perfect it. you wouldn't believe the shine on that car when we were done, absolutely flawless! this is what I do when i'm all done I spray lemon pledge on the car then polish it in as best as i can it leaves an oily film on the paint but it cleans off the residue, then wash it with car wash soap and then I use my backpack leaf blower to dry the car completely the results are phenominal. i'm 68 but cars have been my passion forever having had 10 vettes a 928 Porsche and xjs v12 jaguar coupes and ALWAYS used that process to achieve the ultimate shine. give it a try you will not regret it "live free or die"
06-25-2017, 11:15 PM
Cost for an extensive exterior compound buff and wax...
