Carpet replacement
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,451
Likes: 336
From: Greater Cincinnati Area.
1) I got a good price from Rock Auto. Mass back upgrade and the brand was ACC, I think. (Look for the RA discount code online, of course!)
2) Be careful trimming around the targa supports in the back. It's a fairly large piece and I made a mistake there because of how the carpet goes around them. It's tough to estimate exactly where it will all end up.
Good luck!
2) Be careful trimming around the targa supports in the back. It's a fairly large piece and I made a mistake there because of how the carpet goes around them. It's tough to estimate exactly where it will all end up.
Good luck!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 6,314
Likes: 508
From: South-central Missouri
I've done 3 Vettes so far: 2 C3, and a C4.
In all cases I used the Mass Back carpet kits from MidAmerica and their carpet cement.
Far as the capet goes, I was satisfied (very) with the two C3s. And the one C4's carpet was generally good, with some exceptions:
Also, I found it is always a good idea to have a quart of some 3M Adhesive Remover on hand to remove any old glue (especially from plastic panels. Plastic can be a BITCH to remove the factory glue from). Get off as much as you can. It takes some time and effort, but it will come off...eventually. (And, if there's some residue remaining, as long as it doesn't interfere with the new cement working, the surface does not have to be 100% clean of the old glue, I found. BUT! concentrate on removing old glue anwhere the carpet curves around contours - that's where it will have trouble sticking.)
If the adhesive sticks for 24 hours w/o the pieces lifting - you're golden...pretty much.
3M also makes a spray-on contact cement too. But, generally use the brush-on stuff from MA and leave the spray-on for the light material (e.g., headliners, speaker covers, etc)
I really like their (MA) liquid contact cement: sticks VERY well, especially in places where the Mass Backing is a bit stiff and wants to naturally resist being forced to bend to curved contours and stick.*
*If the contact cement gets too dry, it may not stick well; come loose. I found that applying an additional thin layer of cement to one of the sides to be pressed together is the key. Then then pressing the two sides together - before the additional fresh layer even gets to the "tacky" point, i.e., still mostly WET, you'll have a lot easier time getting the adhesion to work much better. (Also, holding pressure on the critical areas for a few minutes increases success, and too a little heat from a hair dryer or heat gun (used carefully!) will help.)
Don't be in a rush. pre-fit every section, and trim as needed before applying the glue (common sense, I suppose
).
Bottom line? Having the right tools and glues handy, it actually goes very well, I think. And, the best thing about it is, the improvement in the overall appearance of the interior. Like a fresh coat of paint, nothing like new carpet to brighten up the visual appeal of any car.
In all cases I used the Mass Back carpet kits from MidAmerica and their carpet cement.
Far as the capet goes, I was satisfied (very) with the two C3s. And the one C4's carpet was generally good, with some exceptions:
- Inspect all the pieces before installing them to be sure all the pieces are in the kit and that the edges are properly boarder stitched
- Make sure they included the pieces to cover the floor speaker panels - separate pieces (about one square foot apiece x 2. You trim)
- The driver's floor section may require some extra cutting and fitting to make it fit 100%.
Also, I found it is always a good idea to have a quart of some 3M Adhesive Remover on hand to remove any old glue (especially from plastic panels. Plastic can be a BITCH to remove the factory glue from). Get off as much as you can. It takes some time and effort, but it will come off...eventually. (And, if there's some residue remaining, as long as it doesn't interfere with the new cement working, the surface does not have to be 100% clean of the old glue, I found. BUT! concentrate on removing old glue anwhere the carpet curves around contours - that's where it will have trouble sticking.)
If the adhesive sticks for 24 hours w/o the pieces lifting - you're golden...pretty much.
3M also makes a spray-on contact cement too. But, generally use the brush-on stuff from MA and leave the spray-on for the light material (e.g., headliners, speaker covers, etc)
I really like their (MA) liquid contact cement: sticks VERY well, especially in places where the Mass Backing is a bit stiff and wants to naturally resist being forced to bend to curved contours and stick.*
*If the contact cement gets too dry, it may not stick well; come loose. I found that applying an additional thin layer of cement to one of the sides to be pressed together is the key. Then then pressing the two sides together - before the additional fresh layer even gets to the "tacky" point, i.e., still mostly WET, you'll have a lot easier time getting the adhesion to work much better. (Also, holding pressure on the critical areas for a few minutes increases success, and too a little heat from a hair dryer or heat gun (used carefully!) will help.)
Don't be in a rush. pre-fit every section, and trim as needed before applying the glue (common sense, I suppose
).Bottom line? Having the right tools and glues handy, it actually goes very well, I think. And, the best thing about it is, the improvement in the overall appearance of the interior. Like a fresh coat of paint, nothing like new carpet to brighten up the visual appeal of any car.
Last edited by Paul Workman; Jul 22, 2017 at 02:07 PM. Reason: typos
