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Which brand opti?

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Old Sep 15, 2017 | 09:37 PM
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Default Which brand opti?

OK, my water pump **** the bed and puked up a bit on the opti. My 95 is stock and has 53k miles on it. I guess it makes sense to replace the opti since I'm doing the water pump. What brand is recommended? Thanks
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Old Sep 15, 2017 | 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranger72
OK, my water pump **** the bed and puked up a bit on the opti. My 95 is stock and has 53k miles on it. I guess it makes sense to replace the opti since I'm doing the water pump. What brand is recommended? Thanks
My water pump died recently too. My car is a 96 and I have close to 100K on it. My pump put coolant on my opti as well. From what I gathered from reading other people's suggestions I left my opti in place. It was running fine so there had been no leaking into the internals of the opti. Replacement Opti's aren't as good as factory originals. Later model LT1's like ours have vented opti's and are less prone to seal failure. I put a little sealant on top of the opti and I put the new pump on. I think many would have resealed the opti while they were in there but I decided not to. However, I think the general consensus is if it's stock keep it until it breaks because it is the best opti you will ever get.

Have you picked out a pump yet? I found several options out there. There were two GM pumps one quite high the other more affordable. I bought the ACDELCO PRO 252-699 which is probably better than what you will get at Oreilly's but not as good as the AC DELCO 251-554. The second pump I mentioned is more than double the price of the first. It is supposed to be a better pump but it wasn't worth it to me. You're probably better served spending the extra cash on new hoses, a belt and thermostat.

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Old Sep 16, 2017 | 12:04 AM
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On your recommendation and after a little research I purchased the 251-554 on Amazon for an amazing deal. $120. Open box deal. Bamf!
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Old Sep 16, 2017 | 12:12 AM
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I have the factory service manual for my car and it suggested putting some type of sealant in the system each time maintenance is performed. I guess at some point that guidance changed and it was only done if there was a leak that warranted a sealant being added. Once I did my swap my cooling system was unable to pull coolant from the overflow and back into the upper reservoir. I had a small leak somewhere that I was unable to find. The manual said something about using the sealant to seal casting flaws. The tablets were to be put in the upper radiator hose. I had to go back and buy some Bar's Leaks tablets which are supposed to be the same as the GM offering. I crushed two of them as per the manual and put them in my upper radiator hose. They fixed my problem and didn't cause any new ones.
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Old Sep 16, 2017 | 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Ranger72
On your recommendation and after a little research I purchased the 251-554 on Amazon for an amazing deal. $120. Open box deal. Bamf!

I would have gone that route if I had run across that deal. I paid 107. for the cheaper pump so you did alright for yourself. Being open box you may need to order a gasket set. I ordered the Fel-Pro Timing Cover Gasket Set TCS45956 for 10 or 12 bucks. I didn't need it but when I start on a project I hate stopping to make a parts run. Plus this kit has all the timing cover seals you might find yourself in need of.

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Old Sep 16, 2017 | 12:54 AM
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Says it has gaskets, but we'll see. Luckily it's not my daily.
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Old Sep 16, 2017 | 08:16 AM
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When the water pump died in my '96 (95k mi) it was running fine. But when I took the Optispark out to inspect, it had a loose screw from the rotor, and the bearing didn't feel quite right.

So the coolant didn't affect it and it might have gone another 5-15K miles, but it was not well.

Since mine is a DD, she got a new Petris Optispark.

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Old Sep 16, 2017 | 08:58 AM
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Just did my water pump and Opti in my 94. I went with Sac City for my Opti. Kept my original Opti and put it on the shelf.
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Old Sep 16, 2017 | 09:34 AM
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There is a guy on eBay, that lives here in Ohio and sells reconditioned OEM units that he tests. He has been mentioned before. I just bought one of his.

I just did my radiator a couple weeks ago. The return line into the plastic overflow bottle was plugged in the part that sticks down into the bottle. I had to clean it out. It was so plugged, air wouldn't blow it out, I had to poke it out. This is on a 16,000 mile car.
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Old Sep 16, 2017 | 10:32 AM
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So much for the waterpump wisdom.
Now, what about the stupid Opti??
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Old Sep 16, 2017 | 01:02 PM
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check this out

http://stores.ebay.com/OptiDoctor?_t...p2047675.l2563
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Old Sep 16, 2017 | 01:06 PM
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At 53k it may go along time with out failing. I would take a look at the cap and rotor and see what kind of condition the internals are in. Brand IMO is controlled by your wallet. One with a Mitsubishi sensor is preferred. If so change it, definitely keep old one as a spare. Cap and rotor are available use blue loc-tite to secure rotor screws.
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Old Sep 16, 2017 | 01:20 PM
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the link above I posted is for OEM with oem sensors, the guy also does reconditioning
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Old Sep 16, 2017 | 02:21 PM
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At 53k, keep it.
Maybe do a cap and rotor change (But find a GM cap and rotor). Clean it and keep it in service.

There are NO aftermarket OPTI's that will ever run as long as the factory one will.
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Old Sep 16, 2017 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ColaBear

There are NO aftermarket OPTI's that will ever run as long as the factory one will.
While this really shows what a quality part the OEM Opti was it seems like the after market completely dropped the ball on these. Usually there are a host of better-than-original parts available for just about everything on a performance car so why not the Opti-spark ignition?!?!
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Old Sep 16, 2017 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by SR71!
While this really shows what a quality part the OEM Opti was it seems like the after market completely dropped the ball on these. Usually there are a host of better-than-original parts available for just about everything on a performance car so why not the Opti-spark ignition?!?!
Legend has it, the factory units rose in price until they were not realistic. Beyond $1,100 IIRC. Aftermarket probably kicked in. At some point Mitsu got out of the business. Capitalism at its finest.

The OPTI part is what tends to fail on the aftermarket units. Great news is, you can take the original Mitsu Opti-sensor out and repurpose it in the new unit. That gets you a new bearing, case, wire harness and rotor.

Blue locktite the hell out of it. Those rotor screws want to exit. And waterproof the new wiring connector where it faces up under the water pump.

Another option is to buy a new one and check the solder joints in the sensor. A forum member here took his apart and found lousy solder work.

By all means, do not toss the original. It has value.
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Old Sep 16, 2017 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by drcook
the link above I posted is for OEM with oem sensors, the guy also does reconditioning
The $410. Opti has a new sensor in it. That is a lot of cheese for preventative maintenance. If I come up with some extra cash I might store one because he won't have them forever. The OP has a stock low mileage opti and while the cap and rotor change are sound advice replacing it sounds like throwing away cash. Your link also sells rebuilt opti's with used sensors. It doesn't make sense for him to trade a low mileage used sensor for an unknown used sensor.

I appreciate the link. I might have to get me one of those new opti's for future use. I also think this thread will be useful to people in the future. When I was using "search" to find out about the process I got bits and pieces here and there. This thread sums up the arguments nicely.

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To Which brand opti?

Old Sep 17, 2017 | 08:59 AM
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If you go through and read each one, only a brand new sensor pushes up the price. All the other options use reconditioned units with OEM Mitsubishi sensors.

Go out to Summit and price a cap and rotor. $158.95 or $161.95 depending on OptiSpark 1 or 2. Take that away from the price and it doesn't actually look so bad. From what I have been reading, the MSD cap and rotor are pretty good.

As far as the reconditioning, $280.00, take away the price of the rotor and cap, consider that
The bearing will be replaced.
and that doesn't seem too bad either when you look at the rest that he does.

All in all, not bad prices when/if you can't get a good one that lasts for more than it takes to put the engine back together, start it, and find the unit is bad or it lasts a day after the 1 yr warranty and you have to buy another one.

Seeing as the Opti is the heart -vs- the cpu being the brain, compared to the price of the car and the ability to keep it running it is not bad.

Have you priced the cost of a 24x conversion lately ?
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Old Sep 17, 2017 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by drcook
If you go through and read each one, only a brand new sensor pushes up the price. All the other options use reconditioned units with OEM Mitsubishi sensors.

Go out to Summit and price a cap and rotor. $158.95 or $161.95 depending on OptiSpark 1 or 2. Take that away from the price and it doesn't actually look so bad. From what I have been reading, the MSD cap and rotor are pretty good.

As far as the reconditioning, $280.00, take away the price of the rotor and cap, consider that and that doesn't seem too bad either when you look at the rest that he does.

All in all, not bad prices when/if you can't get a good one that lasts for more than it takes to put the engine back together, start it, and find the unit is bad or it lasts a day after the 1 yr warranty and you have to buy another one.

Seeing as the Opti is the heart -vs- the cpu being the brain, compared to the price of the car and the ability to keep it running it is not bad.

Have you priced the cost of a 24x conversion lately ?
I would love to have the 24x conversion. I get what you are saying. However, in this particular case, the opti is low mileage and most likely not suffering any bearing damage. He might want to open it up and take a look throw some lock tight on it and press...or not even open it. For me, with my higher mileage opti, I didn't even open it up. I didn't find the swap to be difficult so I wasn't worried about having to go back in and do the opti in due time. My car will only see 1K miles or so a year so I figured I had a while.

I will probably pick up one with a new sensor while they are available. Having a new Mitsubishi opti that someone has spent time fixing the weak links on is worth a lot. I may throw it on this winter. Working in my shop is one of the few things that gets me out of the house when the cold hits.
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Old Sep 17, 2017 | 12:00 PM
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My car just turned over 16,000 miles. I purchased one of the reconditioned Opti-2's so I can stick my original on the shelf. I plan on keeping the car for a long time.

Right now there is/was a shortage of all kinds of parts for these cars. Getting while the getting is good is a prudent move. The LT1/4 engine platform is just not like the dime a dozen first gen SBC with its mega-part availability.

In my mind, it is just like buying car insurance. You hope you never need it, but it is better than the alternative.
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