8BitAnubis

I will not be buying a "pre done kit" as they cant pre-make one for my needs, and I would need to modify an American Auto Wire kit a lot anyway.

I have no information on my vette as it was sold to me "as is" other than the body is a 1984 T Top and the engine is a L98 383 Stroker and it has a Holly Dominator ECU.

I have never worked on cars much, though I am familiar with airplane avionics so it cant be (to) different.

1. After clearing blockage out of the TPiS Intake runner, will I need to re calibrate the EFI for the increased airflow?
2. I cannot find a reliable source for where the sensor locations are:
Oil Pressure
Oil temp
Coolent Temp
Speed sensor
Knock sensors
Tach (wired to neg on coil?)
(others I am forgetting)

Sources:
http://www.corvette-web-central.com/...tteSensor.html
http://www.commodoresplus.com.au/for...sor-locations/

With all the different info I have picked up, does this look correct?

I will be using the corvette Digital Dash as it is sexy as hell, the folks at BATEE are wonderful with providing me the schematic for the cluster revealing a lot of headache.

Tank you all in advance, I will post pictures as I can get them.

8BitAnubis

The Holly EFI is not the problem

My request was for any further info towards sensor locations on the L98 engine.

What to do about the evap can.

Hell, information on how to re-wire the lights/radio/check engine light/ anything.

​​​​​​The EFI is plug and play basically, but because I have allowed more air through the intake due to the plenum replacement, is there anything I need to do on the software side?

8BitAnubis

Thanks for showing off and providing no relevant information.

My ECU is hooked up and working fine on the TPiS setup I have, and should have been made clear by my post that I required no help with the Holly EFI because you would actually need to be brain dead to install it wrong.

My request was locations of engine sensors (and/or) if I would need to re-program the settings on the efi, but I guess you really needed to show off your unshielded work, good job.

Dt86

You didn’t request anything. You only stated that you couldn’t find a reliable source for where the sensor locations are.

8BitAnubis

Needing to re-wire them I would like to know where they are, or if what I have found is correct.

Or anything (or any one) who has done this before who I could talk to.

64Scout

1. I'm not sure what you are getting at here. Was a runner blocked with some debris, or is it some factory restriction?

2. Considering this should be an SBC, the oil pressure sensor would be behind the distributor.
I don't know about oil temperature sensor, I don't recall these engines having one.
Coolant should be next to the thermostat right up front.
I don't know about the speed sensor, but best guess is the transmission output.
Knock sensors are on the sides.
Yes tach gets wired to the coil.

All of this is going by memory of having worked on 70's and 80's V8s 20+ years ago in high school and just after. If any of the above is wrong, I apologise; I don't own a c4.

If it helps, I have an 85 tpi 305 from an f-body I can take pictures of the sensors.

Hot Rod Roy

You just shut down one of the many experts on this Forum. I'd say you're getting off to a rotten start!

You're going to have ten thousand questions if you can't even figure out how to wire the lights! Have you even heard of the term "FSM"? You need one!

(Factory Shop Manual. It's two books.)

8BitAnubis

I'm going to need to wire the lights from scratch as well as the windshield wipers, and more because the heater and cooling core are shot.

I apologise for being testy and rude, it is a big jump working from aviation manuals or the only other car I have ever owned. (91 F150)

I haven't been able to get ant other help from other forums other than people "showing off" and it becoming a circle jerk. I have been trying to get this girl running because she is currently not at my house and I would like to get her running asap.

While I am going into it I might as well explain the problem.

In short the factory wire looms are destroyed both inside and outside of the Corvette.

The engine is swapped from the stock 1994 L86 engine to the 199X L98 tpis

The only usable things I have are a (I believe) Dominator EFI and the digital dash cluster, and know how to wire both for the sensors.

Never re-wireing a car from scratch I picked a lavish one.

I have found most the information through different sources and books, as well as videos, and am working on getting a shop manual, I just really wish they made manuals for car engines like they do for aircraft.

Once again, sorry for being rude, I will try and do better.

Space387

I am going to make a few assumptions so please correct me if I'm wrong.
1. you have never seen or heard this car run.
2. there is no completed ( even if its mangled) harness to base off.

Oil Pressure - Is behind the engine visible from the driver side laying horizontal.
Oil temp - should be off the Oil filter mount
Coolent Temp - Front of Lower intake manifold just to the left of the thermostat/ coolant return line
Speed sensor - Usually on the driver side of your transmission ( what trans do you have BTW?)
Knock sensors - Both sides of a SBC have a knock sensor but only one is plugged in, usually the passenger side.



Pulled from google Should point you in some kind of direction.
Sensors you may have left out are
MAP - Passenger side of the upper intake
MAF - optional for aftermarket ECM but between the air filter and the TB
IAT- in the bottom of the upper manifold
EGO - also refered to as O2 sensors should be in the manifolds, some older years only have one newer years have one on each side. OBD2 ( not a L98) uses 2 plus a post catalytic converter sensor.

From someone who has rewired and build a new harness it is never suggested to try to build a new harness on a car you are not familiar with.

8BitAnubis

She runs, and well at that, there was a small electrical fire (the aftermarket efi was saved and it's cables) but the dash, and interior wireing to the bulkhead is gone, the engine side of the bulkhead is also damaged.

I have a 700r4 and from what I understand the only thing I need to do to make it drivable is the geometry for the tv cable, though there was something about a solenoid lockup that I don't know if I need.

Needing to rebuild the dash and wireing, fun fun.

Thank you for the post, it helped verify a lot of things and Information.

64Scout

Solenoid lockup is probably for the torque converter. Not something you absolutely have to have.

I took some pictures but you know Photobucket...

Marty_D

This post helped me to, thank you.

odxr

www.alldata.com $24 a year to access the Gm FSM and you can print what you need.If the previous owner put in a Holley efi system I am sure some of the dash does not work.This can be worked around but you will need to study and memorize how the car was wired and how to find the wires you will need to tap into.To do a clean job of sorting the mess (removing dead wires and getting the cluster to read correctly)would take more than a few hours.

belairbrian

Not sure what air frames you worked but the wiring on a corvette, even a C4 is pretty rudimentary stuff. I worked as an avionics tech for 17 years and there is nothing complicated about car wiring.
It's essentially 12v or signal wiring. The dash is low current small gauge wiring.
As suggested, get a FSM the schematics are very good.

Your biggest issue will be identifying connectors. My FSM has a section on that as well. But it's probably not all inclusive.

Palanon

I've had to rewire several cars, trucks and motorcycles over the years. Some completely from scratch. However, the one thing I can tell you as a huge help to maintaining sanity and from having to find or replace tools and such from being thrown in anger is;
Get a model and options complete wire harness to start with!
Yes, you may need to add other wire runs for this or that but, why reinvent the wheel for 90% of the wiring you need to do? Just wre length and placement is worth the price. Plus, a good harness will have the proper wire colors and bundles/connectors that match up with the car and most importantly the FSM. Truly, sanity in a box.