LT1 Engine Removal
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LT1 Engine Removal
So I've been looking around to see what various people have said about pulling the motor on LT1 vette. I have a 1992 C4 Corvette with a 6 speed in it. I have an oil leak that I think is coming from the hub. The car just clocked 150K miles so its probably time to get around to replacing seals anyways. Im planning on replacing the clutch/flywheel at the time. What is the best way to pull the motor? Separated from the bell housing, or with the bell housing and leaving the trans behind.
Also anything I else should look at replacing while the motor is out of the car?
Thanks,
Connor Coughlin
Also anything I else should look at replacing while the motor is out of the car?
Thanks,
Connor Coughlin
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You will need to remove the bellhousing, otherwise it will be a struggle. I also highly advise removing the clutch assembly as well before you yank the motor. Just removes a lot of weight and jagged edges that will shred anything they touch.
As far as doing the seals, way easier on an engine stand and allows you to clean everything. Engine and engine bay.
As far as doing the seals, way easier on an engine stand and allows you to clean everything. Engine and engine bay.
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To replace the rear hub seal, you do not have to pull the engine. You'll have to remove the bell housing, transmission, drive-shaft, and c-beam.
You are changing the clutch anyways
You are changing the clutch anyways
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As far as removing the transmission goes, I have the driveshaft removed and the C-beam is ready to go as well. Can I separate the transmission from the bell housing by unbolting the bolts holding the two together and sliding out of the bell housing? I have a feeling its not that simple haha. nothing ever seems to be. Also is there anything to pay close attention to? I have been keeping up with the bolts that go where.
Thanks,
Connor Coughlin
Thanks,
Connor Coughlin
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As far as removing the transmission goes, I have the driveshaft removed and the C-beam is ready to go as well. Can I separate the transmission from the bell housing by unbolting the bolts holding the two together and sliding out of the bell housing? I have a feeling its not that simple haha. nothing ever seems to be. Also is there anything to pay close attention to? I have been keeping up with the bolts that go where.
Thanks,
Connor Coughlin
Thanks,
Connor Coughlin
Forgot to add, make sure you drain the trans oil to keep from making a mess.
Last edited by ChumpVette; Dec 18, 2017 at 05:16 AM.
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From: North Augusta, South Carolina
Merry Christmas to everyone by the way!
Connor Coughlin
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From: North Augusta, South Carolina
UPDATE: Got the motor out of the car finally. Been busy with work and the holidays. Will post pictures when I get the chance. Motor has a ton of oil and dirt caked on that will be pressure washed off. All of the exhaust manifold bolts loosened up with minimal effort which surprised me. Currently struggling with the passenger side EGR pipe fitting that couples to the passenger manifold. Thanks for all of the help so far guys!!
Connor Coughlin
Connor Coughlin
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OP: Might as well freshen everything up, including the clutch disc, TO and pilot bearings.
This from Bill Boudreau, at his suggestion, once the C-beam is removed:
I used a floor jack and placed the cup under the balance point with another (bottle jack) under a 2x4 placed across the pan to support the motor while pulling the trans.
It comes out easily enough, but getting it back in you may have trouble if the new disc is not properly centered, and that is critical.
I found those plastic alignment tools pretty much worthless. However, a clutch disc alignment tool from Harbor Freight works 99% perfect. But, even that 1% of error can make stabbing that trans into the clutch a real pain.
So, he suggested I have my wife push in the clutch and hold it in while I stabbed the trans. With the trans sliding on those headless bolts as suggested that trans will slip in like butter. Works like a charm - 4 times now!!
Thread Starter
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OP: Might as well freshen everything up, including the clutch disc, TO and pilot bearings.
This from Bill Boudreau, at his suggestion, once the C-beam is removed:
I used a floor jack and placed the cup under the balance point with another (bottle jack) under a 2x4 placed across the pan to support the motor while pulling the trans.
It comes out easily enough, but getting it back in you may have trouble if the new disc is not properly centered, and that is critical.
I found those plastic alignment tools pretty much worthless. However, a clutch disc alignment tool from Harbor Freight works 99% perfect. But, even that 1% of error can make stabbing that trans into the clutch a real pain.
So, he suggested I have my wife push in the clutch and hold it in while I stabbed the trans. With the trans sliding on those headless bolts as suggested that trans will slip in like butter. Works like a charm - 4 times now!!
Connor Coughlin
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From: North Augusta, South Carolina
Pops giving me a helping hand!
After a decent cleaning. Tomorrow morning starts the front hub seal, timing cover seal, intake manifold gasket, valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets, and new headers!
Last edited by twichy2011; Jan 3, 2018 at 12:04 AM.
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I’ve got this job coming up hopefully next winter for a cam swap so this has been a good thread to see, thanks for adding pics. I’m hoping to be able to pull it with the belljousong still attached but we’ll see. I have the happy hooker as well.
Noticed you have LS1 coils mounted to the valve covers with the EFI connection brackets. Their website last I looked said something about not working with LT1 valve covers due to a unique grommet. Did you have any issues?
Noticed you have LS1 coils mounted to the valve covers with the EFI connection brackets. Their website last I looked said something about not working with LT1 valve covers due to a unique grommet. Did you have any issues?