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My first post..I bought a 1993 base coupe a few days ago. Discovered the PKE remote in the car, and liked it so much, we bought another remote..then the trouble began. I can get the car to begin the programming process, which shuts down when the key is turned off. Researching the forum, I found several threads, but realized that the likely culprit is the key inserted switch in the lock cylinder. I hadn’t noticed until tonight that the chime isn’t working when the key is in the ignition, or even when the key isn’t in the ignition, but the lights are on.
Not seeing anything promising concerning repair/replacement..is there any way to bypass the switch long enough to program the PKE module, or does anyone know if it’s possible to repair it? Is the switch still available?
Im waiting for my factory service manuals to arrive, but it’s going to be a while before I receive them.
Last edited by Galaxie500XL; Jan 23, 2018 at 09:30 AM.
My first post..I bought a 1993 base coupe a few days ago. Discovered the PKE remote in the car, and liked it so much, we bought another remote..then the trouble began. I can get the car to begin the programming process, which shuts down when the key is turned off. Researching the forum, I found several threads, but realized that the likely culprit is the key inserted switch in the lock cylinder. I hadn’t noticed until tonight that the chime isn’t working when the key is in the ignition, or even when the key isn’t in the ignition, but the lights are on.
Not seeing anything promising concerning repair/replacement..is there any way to bypass the switch long enough to program the PKE module, or does anyone know if it’s possible to repair it? Is the switch still available?
Im waiting for my factory service manuals to arrive, but it’s going to be a while before I receive them.
Many people have been able to overcome "loose" ignition cylinders by turning the key off but continuing to firmly hold it as far in as it will go. Remember that you will need to program both fobs.
Many people have been able to overcome "loose" ignition cylinders by turning the key off but continuing to firmly hold it as far in as it will go. Remember that you will need to program both fobs.
Thanks for the reply!
I may have come up with a more elegant solution, now that I have the wiring diagram. The key insert switch goes to C204 on the passenger side of the steering column just beyond the knee bolster under the instrument panel.
Tap into the tan wire at C204 at the terminal block, and use an alligator clip to take the wire to ground. This would simulate a working key inserted switch, and allow PKE programming.
Once programming is complete, remove the jumper between the tan wire at C204, and go about your business. It won't fix the bad key insert switch, but it will allow someone with a bad switch to go ahead and program their remotes.
Will this work? I'm fairly confident it would.
Last edited by Galaxie500XL; Jan 23, 2018 at 04:16 PM.
I may have come up with a more elegant solution, now that I have the wiring diagram. The key insert switch goes to C204 on the passenger side of the steering column just beyond the knee bolster under the instrument panel.
Tap into the tan wire at C204 at the terminal block, and use an alligator clip to take the wire to ground. This would simulate a working key inserted switch, and allow PKE programming.
Once programming is complete, remove the jumper between the tan wire at C204, and go about your business. It won't fix the bad key insert switch, but it will allow someone with a bad switch to go ahead and program their remotes.
Will this work? I'm fairly confident it would.
Sounds like it should work, but I'm pretty sure it would be quicker and easier to try holding the key in.
Sounds like it should work, but I'm pretty sure it would be quicker and easier to try holding the key in.
I agree...unfortunately, I couldn't find any amount of force in any direction that would make the switch do anything--either it's totally toast, or more likely the plastic is fractured. I'll pull the steering wheel later, and see to repair of the switch--but it appears every place I've checked so far has discontinued it.
I agree...unfortunately, I couldn't find any amount of force in any direction that would make the switch do anything--either it's totally toast, or more likely the plastic is fractured. I'll pull the steering wheel later, and see to repair of the switch--but it appears every place I've checked so far has discontinued it.
I've bought a replacement switch from Eckler's....may as well fix it properly.
The chime module is toast, too. Oddly, I'm less worried about taking the steering column apart, as I am peeling back the entire top of the dash to get to the chime module.