Bad Opti?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 823
Likes: 106
From: Somewhere near Fort Wayne, Indiana
Thanks. If the FPR was bad, would it still hold pressure? Mine gets up to 42/43 psi and holds fairly well when you turn it off, but the pump runs for maybe 15 seconds and I know it should only run for two or three. Also I have no ignition codes, just one for egr and two for O2.
Just pulled a plug and held it against the air tube emissions thing on the passenger side and had my wife crank it. No spark. So now I'm wondering if maybe I can pull the Opti from underneath and leave the water pump on? I'm looking at this one. I think it's the same guy that everyone recommends. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F323274773868
Just pulled a plug and held it against the air tube emissions thing on the passenger side and had my wife crank it. No spark. So now I'm wondering if maybe I can pull the Opti from underneath and leave the water pump on? I'm looking at this one. I think it's the same guy that everyone recommends. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F323274773868
Last edited by 64Scout; Jun 5, 2018 at 07:52 PM.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 95
Likes: 17
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
Thanks. If the FPR was bad, would it still hold pressure? Mine gets up to 42/43 psi and holds fairly well when you turn it off, but the pump runs for maybe 15 seconds and I know it should only run for two or three. Also I have no ignition codes, just one for egr and two for O2.
Just pulled a plug and held it against the air tube emissions thing on the passenger side and had my wife crank it. No spark. So now I'm wondering if maybe I can pull the Opti from underneath and leave the water pump on? I'm looking at this one. I think it's the same guy that everyone recommends. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F323274773868
Just pulled a plug and held it against the air tube emissions thing on the passenger side and had my wife crank it. No spark. So now I'm wondering if maybe I can pull the Opti from underneath and leave the water pump on? I'm looking at this one. I think it's the same guy that everyone recommends. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F323274773868
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 823
Likes: 106
From: Somewhere near Fort Wayne, Indiana
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 95
Likes: 17
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
It’s really not that bad or messy if you follow the forum recommendations. For instance, pull the knock sensor to drain the block, that almost eliminates any mess. The most frustrating part for me was the electric water pump I have installed, it needs to be taken apart in the car to come out because the AC stuff is in the way, then when going back together, the pump motor needs to go in before the pump is bolted up and re-assembled in position...very annoying. It did take me a couple days but that’s mostly because I am old and slow and the most difficult part was torquing the balancer. I ended up running a cargo strap to the frame rail. Quite a pain for something that may or may not be causing the problem.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 823
Likes: 106
From: Somewhere near Fort Wayne, Indiana
I hear you on the water pump. That was the first thing I had to do, mine was bad when I bought my car.
I pulled my Opti out the other day. Pretty oily and grimy outside. After reading dozens of ignition threads and looking at lots of failed distributors, I had to know what was in mine. First thing I see is the missing o-rings on the shaft. The bearing was loose. Inside, the rotor contact was crusty and a small amount of oil inside where the sensor is. I ran a rag through the sensor and there may have been a small amount of oil on it. Otherwise it looked clean. I am going to box it up and send it off to be rebuilt by a guy in Ohio that I assume is Optidoctor? Just trying to not fall victim to project creep.
I pulled my Opti out the other day. Pretty oily and grimy outside. After reading dozens of ignition threads and looking at lots of failed distributors, I had to know what was in mine. First thing I see is the missing o-rings on the shaft. The bearing was loose. Inside, the rotor contact was crusty and a small amount of oil inside where the sensor is. I ran a rag through the sensor and there may have been a small amount of oil on it. Otherwise it looked clean. I am going to box it up and send it off to be rebuilt by a guy in Ohio that I assume is Optidoctor? Just trying to not fall victim to project creep.
