1989 Shifter Reverse Lockout Ring
06-17-2018, 02:30 PM
#1
1989 Shifter Reverse Lockout Ring
Greetings, I'm thinking about changing the reverse lockout ring on my 89 6-speed (the ring below the shifter **** you lift up to go into reverse) and I'm nervous because 1.) I have never done it and 2.) Tthe tiny little allen screw in there was glued in to keep it from coming loose. Years ago a mechanic added some glue to keep it from loosening, but recently the screw came loose again. I was able to tighten it, but I can tell the glue in there will add serious resistance to taking the screw out. Exit questions: If I strip that screw can I cut the plastic ring off to remove it ? Also, shifting into gears isn't as smooth and I read there is a metal bar of some type in there that can wear out and cause shift problems. I bought the plastic shifter ring from a local GM dealer (see photo #1 below), but do not have a bar (see photo #2). Is there a bar and do I need it just in case ? Any diagrams, instructions, advice would be immensely appreciated. Thank you.
Photo #1
https://corvetteparts.com/pictures/3...faa80c11_3.jpg
Photo #2
https://www.corvettemods.com/thumbna...axx=350&maxy=0
Photo #1
https://corvetteparts.com/pictures/3...faa80c11_3.jpg
Photo #2
https://www.corvettemods.com/thumbna...axx=350&maxy=0
Last edited by ~ Anno Domini; 06-19-2018 at 10:44 AM.
06-18-2018, 02:01 AM
#2
Instructor
I think the bar is threaded and is for the overdrive button on the shifter for the 4+3 transmission. I replaced my shifter **** with one I bought as mine was cracked and the leather was gone. I remember a threaded rod that connected to the button on the shifter.
Last edited by RArline; 06-18-2018 at 02:08 AM.
06-18-2018, 12:04 PM
#3
Thank you for your input RArline, I'll be honest, I don't know how the 4+3 transmission works. I just have 1st to 5th and a reverse 6th gear in my 6-speed. I don't know if the threaded rod in yours will be in mine. That said, the first thing I should probably determine is, is that if that little allen screw strips while trying to take it out can I cut the reverse lift-ring off with a hack saw or something else to get at the little screw ? I don't want to take that screw out half-way, it strips, and then not be able to shift at all. Any thoughts from anybody would be greatly appreciated.
06-19-2018, 11:29 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
Yes you can cut it, break it or whatever it takes to get it off as long as you don't damage the metal rod. I had one that split in two and fell off by itself. I would saw into it and stop before I got to the rod then use a screwdriver in the cut to split it the rest of the way.
06-19-2018, 01:39 PM
#6
Thank you for your insight RWDsmoke because I have a feeling that I won't be able to get that little allen screw out all the way and will have to cut/saw the plastic reverse lift ring off of the shifter to remove it so that I can install the new plactic reverse lift ring. All I have is a hacksaw, so I guess if the screw doesn't come out I will slowly saw it in half and as you mentioned stop short of damaging the metal rod....oh boy....not looking forward to this. Thank you.
Last edited by ~ Anno Domini; 06-19-2018 at 07:26 PM.
06-19-2018, 05:53 PM
#7
Race Director
Doubt you'll run into major obstacle. The ENTIRE lift ring is nylon/plastic. That allen set-screw (IIRC) only creates "pressure" against the inner reverse-rod so it'll grab it and lift. I don't remember threads, intendation, etc.. In fact, if you can get the set screw to turn even half-a-turn, you should be able to pull run up and off.
Otherwise, you should be able to cut/break the ring off. Might even break/shatter with a hard squeeze with big channel locks?
Years ago, my lift ring split around the set-screw hole. I kept having trouble with the screw coming loose until I bought a new one. Then I sold the entire shifter to get short-throw and eliminate reverse lock-out. One of the best mods ever!
(The shifter has a slot cut out of one side. That's how the lift-ring cinches to the center rod. The center rod would be hard to damage...though you should take care to avoid getting shavings into the center of the shifter. Possible that might impede smooth up/down movement of the rod?)
Otherwise, you should be able to cut/break the ring off. Might even break/shatter with a hard squeeze with big channel locks?
Years ago, my lift ring split around the set-screw hole. I kept having trouble with the screw coming loose until I bought a new one. Then I sold the entire shifter to get short-throw and eliminate reverse lock-out. One of the best mods ever!
(The shifter has a slot cut out of one side. That's how the lift-ring cinches to the center rod. The center rod would be hard to damage...though you should take care to avoid getting shavings into the center of the shifter. Possible that might impede smooth up/down movement of the rod?)
06-19-2018, 07:26 PM
#8
...thank you Gregg, your words give me encouragement to give it a shot. I have kept an allen screw bit in the coffee cup holder for years in case the screw loosens and it always does and I'm always concerned I won't be able to screw it back in (especially since it was glued in at one time and there is glue in there). So I bought a NEW plastic lift ring (comes with new allen screw), but I have been hesitant to install it out of fear, but the way you guys explain it, if I have to saw off the lift ring or break it, it is just a matter of being careful and it can come off and I can put the new lift ring on. As I type this the glued in allen screw currently in the car is working (until it loosens again and it will), but now I know how to move forward on this if I get the courage to change it, lol. Thank you again for your help.