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I have a 96 lt1. The Bose speakers, all 4 of them are still being used and they sound great. The head unit is a Kenwood that has output for sub and all that. I dont need the typical, "you should ditch all the factory parts response"
I'm going to supplement the Bose speakers with a powered sub since the Kenwood head unit has sub outputs. Obviously the powered sub unit will be in the back cargo area. Considering that position, what is the best source for power and ground cables to serve the aux amp? Battery obviously but since it has the side terminals, I'm wondering how I tap in at the battery. Or is there a better place hopefully closer that will work? Also, what is the closest good grounding location from the rear cargo area?
Thanks for helping me do thing the less than usual way
Im curious as well. I am assuming that the line signals to the Bose amp can be tapped into at the speaker - is this correct? No need to run a line from the head unit?
For power, are the power leads to the Bose amps at the speakers too small?
It's an 800 watt amp feeding the sub so the power line is hefty and needs to come straight from the battery. I'm going to get new side terminal bolts for the battery. Specialty ones that have an additional fastener to connect other stuff. I'll come off the battery and install an inline fuse holder, drill small hole in firewall just behind the battery and run the line along the frame rail under the sill cover. I found a good spot for the ground on the frame rail near the E-brake. Drilled and tapped a machine thread hole, scuffed the paint for good contact and done.
The head unit is a Kenwood DDX492. The low signal outputs go directly to the factory Bose speakers and the factory built in amps drive them. The stock receiver behind the passenger seat gets bypassed. The Kenwood head unit also has dedicated low signal sub out connections. Those go directly to the powered sub enclosure.
I rough wired it to check the sound. It's pretty good. Imagine a properly functioning factory Bose system with some added thump. The dedicated subwoofer handles the low stuff which lets me relieve the Bose of the hard work. Then I can trim the equalizer to get higher volume but remain pretty clear from the Bose components and still have good bass delivered by the sub.
The ABS unit is powered by a 60-amp maxi fuse on a dedicated circuit. The ABS is in the compartment on the LH side of the cargo area. I wouldn't have any problem tapping this power source for a conservative powered sub unit. To my way of thinking, running wires through the interior and out to the battery will cause more molestation to the car than any possible consequence of using an adequate circuit that's just a few inches away from where you need it.
Dont take the hack way out. Run a real power wire from the battery to the back for it, and a real ground. You're just setting yourself up for other issues by taking the hack way out.
I would not run a 800 watt amplifier off of that ABS circuit. If that is rated at 800 watts RMS then if you ever go near maximum output you would be drawing 70+ amps by the time you figure in efficiency of the amp.
For a '96 I don't believe there's 60A MAXI for anything other than the 2 ignition circuits, lighting and power accesory. EBTCM is a 40A and ASR/ABS is a 30A. I understand 'alternate and maybe unconventional' approaches regarding installs but I believe the OP needs to mention AMP by 'make/model'
How does drilling holes in firewalls, cobbling additional wires onto battery terminals, tucking wires under trim panels, and creating unintended ground loops through frame members NOT constitute a "hack"?
Out of the box thinking, and coming up with suggestions that solve the issue with MINIMUM molestation or unintended consequences are not common on here. Name calling and dissing others contributions are, however.
You can get as upset as you want, it doesnt change the fact there there is a right way to do it and a wrong way to do it. What you call "out of the box thinking" is actually just the wrong way.
The right way is to run a new, correctly sized wired through a grommet, with a correctly sized fuse. This way you don't have any catastrophic failure situations, you're not piggy backing on wiring for your brakes.
I was half way through the task of running a dedicated line from the battery so that's the way I went. The power line is not even all that long. Since the sub box sits right behind the driver, the length is only 7'. Ground is about 2'. All done and working good! 6 gauge cables and a 40amp fuse 12" off the battery,
Here's what I used to connect to battery. It looks clean and presents no problems. It gives a better clamping point for chargers and jumper cables too. I removed the battery to run the wire into the kick panel area. With the battery back in, you can't even see where the wire passes through.
Here's what I used to connect to battery. It looks clean and presents no problems. It gives a better clamping point for chargers and jumper cables too. I removed the battery to run the wire into the kick panel area. With the battery back in, you can't even see where the wire passes through.
subwoofer amp hookup
