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My car sits 90% of the time. The battery was dead and I tried to push it out of the garage.
It seems the brakes are on.
The brake lines are hard as a rock.
I put a new battery in it and went for a drive.
I could barley get it to stop pushing with all my weight.
Are my caliper rusted?
The master cylinder is fairly new, the booster has vacume .
My rotors and pads look fine.
What calipers are good for the price?
What's the difference between 87 +88 brake calipers?
Thanks
Last edited by 7thvet; Oct 10, 2018 at 12:30 AM.
Reason: Added a question
If the drive didn't loosen the brakes I would jack up each corner and determine which wheel(s) is locked up. Or take a short drive and see which rim is hot. Then try opening the bleeder on the stuck caliper and see if that frees it up. If that doesn't work you can try removing the pads and compressing the brake piston manually. Sometimes that will do it but more than likely its time to replace the caliper.
Check the emergency brake too.
If the drive didn't loosen the brakes I would jack up each corner and determine which wheel(s) is locked up. Or take a short drive and see which rim is hot. Then try opening the bleeder on the stuck caliper and see if that frees it up. If that doesn't work you can try removing the pads and compressing the brake piston manually. Sometimes that will do it but more than likely its time to replace the caliper.
Check the emergency brake too.
Thank you sir for your reply.
I just bled all 4, no abnormalities.
What is blowing my mind is, if one caliper is bad, I should still have better braking from the other 3.
I mean to tell you, I barley could stop.
Your suggestion of manually compressing the cylinders is probably my best next move.
Thank you again.
PS automatic transmission, so e brake never has worked or been needed.
US car manufacturers, to sell it as lower maintenance, I suspect, decided to forget the brake flush. It is NOT a sealed system and absorbs water. I suspect the water rusted the caliper. I flush all my cars every couple of years. At this point, if the hoses are original, get some SS braided teflon hoses. Toss the calipers. Flush all the fluid and hopefully the ABS still works.
Just because the booster is GETTING vacuum doesnt mean it is working.
Your symptoms point to losing your "power brakes" aka the vacuum assist aka the brake booster being bad.
Really, I did not know that. Thank you.
I have one of the calipers off right now, I can't make the piston retract using a C clamp.
Does that help diagnosis?
Thanks again .
Really, I did not know that. Thank you.
I have one of the calipers off right now, I can't make the piston retract using a C clamp.
Does that help diagnosis?
Thanks again .
Front yes. Caliper is bad. Rear, you need the tool for the job.
Rjacobs, I think you're right.
I pumped the pedal and the caliper piston moved.
Then I tried the c clamp and couldn't move it till I loosened the bleeder screw and it moved freely.
Rjacobs, I think you're right.
I pumped the pedal and the caliper piston moved.
Then I tried the c clamp and couldn't move it till I loosened the bleeder screw and it moved freely.
Darn it, I took off the booster. What a **** that was.
I still can't push the caliper piston back.
I loosened the line and I can.
I'm thinking Napa crappa master cylinder didn't even last one year.
Thanks guys I'll get one tomorrow and try that.
Last edited by 7thvet; Oct 10, 2018 at 06:28 PM.
Reason: Add thank you
I tried blowing through the line, including the caliper bolt, but I need more hands to hold everything and the air hose.
I will have help, tomorrow.
Thanks everyone.
I will post when I get that done.
The brake lines are clear, using air.
The master cylinder bench bleeds normal.
I kind of give up on diagnosis and am to the point of just throwing money at it.
New lines and master cylinder are not to expensive .
The booster is well over a hundred for new. I can't risk putting that old one back on, because of the labor.
Tonight I will search web prices and compare to O'reilly and Advance tomorrow.
Input still appreciated.
Thank you
purchased new Napa booster 2 weeks back @249. has lifetime war. GOOD thing as it will be the 3rd booster on my 96 in 10 months . the car has had Every brake part replaced ,mechanic tells me there is only one source for these POS boosters as they all have identical markings no matter the box. one shop bill was $ 720.82 part,fluids and labor last NOV. last bill was about $800 after being stuck in bum frick CO.(Durango) for 4 days for part and repairs
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