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Inside the optispark

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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 04:04 PM
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Default Inside the optispark


Doe this mean the optispark is trashed ?

All post inside are partially fried

Last edited by 95’er; Nov 6, 2018 at 04:05 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 04:27 PM
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You may just need a new cap and rotor. If you replace the rotor be sure to use blue Locktite on it the screws.
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by JimLentz
You may just need a new cap and rotor. If you replace the rotor be sure to use blue Locktite on it the screws.
I done went ahead and bought a whole new unit Just praying my car starts after this all the post are burn out though should come in the mail tomorrow

Last edited by 95’er; Nov 6, 2018 at 06:10 PM.
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Old Nov 7, 2018 | 10:05 AM
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What brand opti is that? Looks the first opti I took out of my 93. Sometimes you can't tell they are bad by visually looking. Sensor could be bad. On one of mine, if you spun the rotor by hand, it would wobble. Which putting a new one and the car ran fine.
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Old Nov 7, 2018 | 10:23 AM
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Mine ran great but had a wiggly bearing so i replaced it with an AIP unit. I cleaned and swapped in my Mitsu sensor. All is well and I have the new AIP sensor as back stock.
Main thing is don't bolt it down if it's not perfectly flush with the timing cover. Ask me how I know. Also, fire it before you put on the water pump. Will save you hours of headache.
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Old Nov 7, 2018 | 11:46 AM
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don't forget, the oem ones can be rebuilt, upgraded and use the mitsubishi sensor. if you price the cost of an MSD cap and rotor ($150.00 plus depending on source) then the rebuild service is not too bad all considering what you get


https://www.ebay.com/sch/berrington1...p2047675.l2562
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Old Nov 7, 2018 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by JimLentz
You may just need a new cap and rotor. If you replace the rotor be sure to use blue Locktite on it the screws.
well I changed the Opti same results I’m just ready to throw the whole car away car wants to start but doesn’t
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Old Nov 7, 2018 | 10:51 PM
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Don't give up just yet. I know a no start condition can be frustrating, but that is not unique to a C4. That's a pain in the **** on any car. You'll simply have to go down the list of possible culprits, one by one. Don't throw tons of cash at it, troubleshoot each component. Check fuel pressure, injectors, fuel pump to start. Heck, check your battery even! It could be providing enough current to crank, but not enough to start. Rare, but it happens. Check the cables too, including ground points(those can cause all sorts of hell on any car). Just start with the easy stuff, and work your way towards the pain in the neck stuff.
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Old Nov 7, 2018 | 11:07 PM
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When the car won't start, what's missing? Spark or fuel?

And no, you're pics didn't not mean the option was "trashed".
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Old Nov 8, 2018 | 09:19 AM
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What lead you to the Optispark as the cause in the first place? Did you test all the easy stuff first? I will be one of the first to cuss the bloody Optispark, but swapping that mother when it was really the coil/ICM/fuel pump etc. instead is painful and unsatisfying.

Press on. If I can keep an LT-1 running, anybody can.
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Old Nov 8, 2018 | 09:42 AM
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Take a picture of the opti sensor so the experts can tell you if it is the good one or junk.
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Old Nov 8, 2018 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Renfield
What lead you to the Optispark as the cause in the first place? Did you test all the easy stuff first? I will be one of the first to cuss the bloody Optispark, but swapping that mother when it was really the coil/ICM/fuel pump etc. instead is painful and unsatisfying.

Press on. If I can keep an LT-1 running, anybody can.
what lead me to the Opti I heard it popping
as if one of the spark plugs was out was causing static then I put my hand on the Opti had a buddy crank it and recieved some voltage from it so figured that was it I done changed almost everything except the ignition control module ....
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 10:12 AM
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This should be easy:
Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
When the car won't start, what's missing? Spark or fuel?
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
This should be easy:
no spark from wires module 4 reading err when I jump the odb port but had computer replaced already reflashed for my vin had it send to dms corvette shop in garland he told me after I got my bcm repaired it should fire right up still same issue he had his tech 2 on it at the shop it ran fine until you unplug it and turn the car off then same symptoms would apply I think he 42 faked me but I expected that after he tried to get me for 1500 on removing the bcm when I pulled it myself in 30 mins shipped it off had it repaired by g7computers amazing company but I’m going out this morning to put on a new icm and track down some wires
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 01:13 PM
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Killing me
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 01:26 PM
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If you're getting zapped when you hold the distributor the wires are bad or the cap is cracked. I don't care how screwed up the distributor is inside, if it's leaking enough voltage to shock you wires and/or cap are bad.
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by pacoW
If you're getting zapped when you hold the distributor the wires are bad or the cap is cracked. I don't care how screwed up the distributor is inside, if it's leaking enough voltage to shock you wires and/or cap are bad.
I changed the whole unit no spark coming from unit at all coil firing though
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 02:42 PM
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So you've got spark coming from the coil....but none coming from any of the plug wires?

You got spark coming from the distributor END of the coil wire?
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 95’er

I changed the whole unit no spark coming from unit at all coil firing though
If the coil is firing, the ignition system is working. ECM sending signal to ICM I believe. If you're not getting spark out at the plugs there's a break in the coil wire or the rotor in the distributor is messed up.
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 05:44 PM
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Friend of mine had that "err" in his 95. Turned out to be a bad pcm.
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