When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Rather than removing the 2 knock sensors to drain the block for a flush, I learned Valvoline flushes the system by pulling a radiator hose and simply injecting fresh coolant. No potential for air lock or damage to the sensors. What is the group consensus on this procedure?
I don't think that method is getting as much debris out of the block as removing the sensors...but I do think that it's better than doing nothing. A lot better. Probably "good enough".
Rather than removing the 2 knock sensors to drain the block for a flush, I learned Valvoline flushes the system by pulling a radiator hose and simply injecting fresh coolant. No potential for air lock or damage to the sensors. What is the group consensus on this procedure?
Damage to what sensors? Knock sensors are below and CTS probably won't be damaged. If you want to do the flush, do it after you cleaned the block and as part of your 2 year maintenance. First time in forever? Probably drain the block and backflush the ports. Crap settles to the lowest point.
The engine cooling jackets are known for packing up with sediment and scale, to the point that a sharp tool must be used to break through the crust inside the sensor holes before the flood happens. This buildup can cause hot spots in the engine, not good. So based on my own experience plus what I have read in the various cooling system threads, there is no substitute for pulling the knock sensors as a general process. If you've had your car for a few years and you know your cooling system is clean with good service history, I suppose you could skip this every once in a while (drain radiator, blow out heater core, fill system). But I would not make it a habit... it's easy to pull the knock sensors, why not do it? If you attempt to take out the sensors and they get damaged in the process, that is a problem that should be addressed anyway... just a matter of time before it came up.
Good advice from DGXR. This is the only way to get the block flushed. I had to use a screw driver to break thru the build up once I had pulled the sensor on the 85. The ran water thru it multiple time to get all the crap out of the block. Never have destroyed a sensor taking it out. Use the right tool and there will never be a issue. Just pulling the radiator hose (lowest possible) will still leave the block full of coolant to the level of the hose. All the crap is still in the block. Do it the right way and pull the sensor. My 85 had a sensor on the passenger side and I had to pull the drain plug on the other. The plug was a little difficult, but I got it out. You have to pull both sides to drain BOTH SIDES.
I believe I've found a permanent solution to keep the cooling system really clean. I posted under "what did you do to your c4 today" on 10/14/18 post #4123 titled
Cooling System Filter The only mod besides routing heater hoses was replacing the original WSW reservoir with a small aftermarket unit.
Here are a couple of pictures of the installation.
Last edited by Izzy Dizzy; Nov 29, 2018 at 07:58 PM.
Reason: adding text
^What do you mean by "permanent solution"? B/c you still need to change your coolant, even with a filter.
If he can keep it perfectly clean and keep dumping in sufficient additive to keep the essential compounds at the right level I suppose. Keyword is "IF"
^What do you mean by "permanent solution"? B/c you still need to change your coolant, even with a filter.
Sorry, I should have elaborated. I've been finding small amounts of suspended rust in the system, even with several coolant changes and adding rust inhibiter. Once I installed the filter and took a short ride, my coolant does not have any rust particles in it anymore. I got the idea from diesel trucks where coolant filters are commonplace.
And yes, when the time comes, I will drain and refill with fresh coolant. Since the filter is in place, I don't think I'll have to worry about "flushing" the system any longer. Also, I use distilled water when mixing the coolant. Keeps the minerals from tap water from building up scale.
Even still, Nay sayers gonna say! This filter set up works for me and hopefully will help another member!
Last edited by Izzy Dizzy; Nov 30, 2018 at 08:27 AM.
I happened on a diesel truck board once and those guys were talking about "passive filtration" I never built one, but I got the impression it was constructed like a sediment/condensate trap in a gas line.
The "filter" was a "Tee" like arrangement, where coolant would flow over a containment area and the solids would tend to settle there and be trapped in the bottom.
I happened on a diesel truck board once and those guys were talking about "passive filtration" I never built one, but I got the impression it was constructed like a sediment/condensate trap in a gas line.
The "filter" was a "Tee" like arrangement, where coolant would flow over a containment area and the solids would tend to settle there and be trapped in the bottom.
???
I don't know anything about that method. What I'm using is simply a filter (non treated) to trap suspended particles of rust that I couldn't get rid of otherwise. I drive my Corvette when I have time and the weather is nice. Since I've installed the filter I've only driven it a couple of hours and the results were amazing!
In that first vid, don't filters filter from the inside out? The ones that I work with do. I don't know which way he plumbed it, but I think most or all of that contamination is from the cutting, in spite of what he says. That's not how to cut a filter open. :-(
I think it's a sound idea, but his analysis is not that good.
In that first vid, don't filters filter from the inside out? The ones that I work with do. I don't know which way he plumbed it, but I think most or all of that contamination is from the cutting, in spite of what he says. That's not how to cut a filter open. :-(
I think it's a sound idea, but his analysis is not that good.
I bought the exact same filter housing, but used the shorter filter. The housing is marked with arrows to show which way the flow is to travel.
and I never thought of which way the coolant flow travels once it enters the housing, so the point you made is a good one! . However, it works like a charm.
As for the Jeep guy, he did mention his system was full of rust and old stop leak, so maybe that's the reason all the crap inside the filter can.
However, if you watch when he films the opened up filter material, it's very easy to spot the rust particles.
I don't know anything about that method. What I'm using is simply a filter (non treated) to trap suspended particles of rust that I couldn't get rid of otherwise. I drive my Corvette when I have time and the weather is nice. Since I've installed the filter I've only driven it a couple of hours and the results were amazing!
It is an interesting arrangement.. Never saw anything like it before.
It would be nice to get that stuff suspended or trapped, so it's not just rolling around sandblasting the crap out of everything, over and over..
I can see the benefit of this kind of filter installation, it is likely to significantly reduce maintenance time by requiring only a drain & fill rather than a flush every time. But sooner or later you'll have to flush the system because gravity still works.. What I mean is, the coolant is not flowing 24h/day and pockets of sediment and scale will still build up at the bottom of the cooling jackets. It may take many years to see any negative effect, but I'm confident this kind of filter will not completely override the need for an occasional flush.
Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
In that first vid, don't filters filter from the inside out? The ones that I work with do. I don't know which way he plumbed it, but I think most or all of that contamination is from the cutting, in spite of what he says. That's not how to cut a filter open. :-(
I think it's a sound idea, but his analysis is not that good.
In my experience, most filters flow from the outside in, and the filtered fluid exits the filter from the center threaded hole. That's why there is a reinforced steel center tube inside the filter media, to keep it from collapsing under higher pressures once the filter media starts to load up with particulates.
Since I've installed the filter I've only driven it a couple of hours and the results were amazing!
What results have you noticed in a couple of hours of driving time? Wouldn't a good start of a test be to clean up the motor throughly and then run it for a couple years and at least check the filter for residue?
Cooling System Flush
that all makes sense to me. I like your installation, and creative thinking.