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2 things. For the hell of it I checked cranking compression. 190 on a cold engine... so that's fun.
Second, how in the hell do you get the steering shaft in without pulling the column... like that was literally impossible to replace the intermediate shaft. I ended up milling the ends down a bit to make it fit as the new shaft was about a quarter inch longer. It sucked. Im hoping the u-joint cap is held in place now too... that was also fun trying to peen that in place.
At any rate, now the only slop I have is the column itself... so it isn't scary loose anymore. Now does anyone know where I can find a lower alternator bracket...
QUOTE=GregMartin;1601120343]Lots of love for the 84 and the crossfire here.[/QUOTE]
I also loved my 84 Cross-Fire 4+3. It was my first Corvette and I had it for about 5 years and then sold it to get a 15 C7. My 84 had no major mods, but it had a ported intake, higher ration roller tip rockers, high flow cat and muffler delete and it ran & sounded great! I did a lot of detail work on the interior & exterior -enjoyed tinkering with it, except when I replaced the clutch on jack stands in my garage one winter.
Last edited by glava2876; Mar 20, 2020 at 04:36 PM.
QUOTE=GregMartin;1601120343]Lots of love for the 84 and the crossfire here.
I also loved my 84 Cross-Fire 4+3. It was my first Corvette and I had it for about 5 years and then sold it to get a 15 C7. My 84 had no major mods, but it had a ported intake, higher ration roller tip rockers, high flow cat and muffler delete and it ran & sounded great! I did a lot of detail work on the interior & exterior -enjoyed tinkering with it, except when I replaced the clutch on jack stands in my garage one winter. [/QUOTE]
I love the red interior
I removed my car from the garage it was occupying and replaced it with the one that belongs in that garage... also, there is a ton of freedom in this video...
I removed my car from the garage it was occupying and replaced it with the one that belongs in that garage... also, there is a ton of freedom in this video... https://youtu.be/zxK0T1JYJHY
2 things. For the hell of it I checked cranking compression. 190 on a cold engine... so that's fun.
Second, how in the hell do you get the steering shaft in without pulling the column... like that was literally impossible to replace the intermediate shaft. I ended up milling the ends down a bit to make it fit as the new shaft was about a quarter inch longer. It sucked. Im hoping the u-joint cap is held in place now too... that was also fun trying to peen that in place.
At any rate, now the only slop I have is the column itself... so it isn't scary loose anymore. Now does anyone know where I can find a lower alternator bracket...
Probably too late to help you but maybe can help someone else. My son and I just replaced ours last week with a rebuilt intermediate shaft from Corvette Central. The '84 intermediate shaft actually telescopes, the sliding joint is under the rubber sleeves near the center of the shaft. We noticed that the new shaft was longer than the old one, called Corvette Central and they pointed out that it telescopes. Not easily, it was pretty stiff, but it did move. We set it about the same as the old one, and as long as it could be and still be installed. Then tightened the column end and (fairly) gently tapped on the rack end until it was long enough for the clamp bolt to engage the groove in the rack shaft. The factory manual does not mention or indicate the ability to telescope.
What's different with the new oxygen sensor? Does the engine have a better idle or better fuel economy? Was there anything required to modify to install the heated sensor or was it plug and play?
What's different with the new oxygen sensor? Does the engine have a better idle or better fuel economy? Was there anything required to modify to install the heated sensor or was it plug and play?
you have to run a switched positive. The engine can transition into closed loop faster.
What's different with the new oxygen sensor? Does the engine have a better idle or better fuel economy? Was there anything required to modify to install the heated sensor or was it plug and play?
What Greg said. My problem was only the hardest of rips would transition it to closed loop. It just wouldn't go... i ended up using the egr lead as the source since I no longer have egr or an air pump. Sensor draws about half an Amp for the heater. If I still had manifolds it probably would be fine.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Nice 67 Firechicken! Yep, going to a heated O2 is the way to go if your motor is going from open to closed loop back and forth. It is caused by the O2 sensor cooling off too much. Just ensure you wire the three wire heated sensor to a switched circuit, so that it only comes ON when the motor is running. If not, you will drain your battery as it heats the sensor and will burn it up.
Last edited by Buccaneer; Mar 27, 2020 at 08:34 PM.
Nice 67 Firechicken! Yep, going to a heated O2 is the way to go if your motor is going from open to closed loop back and forth. It is caused by the O2 sensor cooling off too much. Just ensure you wire the three wire heated sensor to a switched circuit, so that it only comes ON when the motor is running. If not, you will drain your battery as it heats the sensor and will burn it up.
I couldn't for the life of me figure out why my commanded idle afr was holding 13.7... well... found out lol. Dropped to 14.7 soon as it hit 140
Nice 67 Firechicken! Yep, going to a heated O2 is the way to go if your motor is going from open to closed loop back and forth. It is caused by the O2 sensor cooling off too much. Just ensure you wire the three wire heated sensor to a switched circuit, so that it only comes ON when the motor is running. If not, you will drain your battery as it heats the sensor and will burn it up.
It is a nice Firechicken isn’t it. I have to admit I only use that term when I want to be derogatory to someone. In this case I think it’s a beautiful bird. I don’t know a real lot about Pontiacs could you get a 455SD back then or was that only available in the 70s?
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Originally Posted by GregMartin
It is a nice Firechicken isn’t it. I have to admit I only use that term when I want to be derogatory to someone. In this case I think it’s a beautiful bird. I don’t know a real lot about Pontiacs could you get a 455SD back then or was that only available in the 70s?
Really? Must be an Australian thing... LOL I call em Firechickens, just slang, must be an American thing. Doh! I only remember a 400 being the biggest motor and the 455 came later. Actually a good friend back in the day had a very nice 67 Firechicken with a 4spd. Ran like the wind, it was dark green, black interior. Really nice clean car.
Really? Must be an Australian thing... LOL I call em Firechickens, just slang, must be an American thing. Doh! I only remember a 400 being the biggest motor and the 455 came later. Actually a good friend back in the day had a very nice 67 Firechicken with a 4spd. Ran like the wind, it was dark green, black interior. Really nice clean car.
They're all cool here man we had GTS Monaros, A9X Toranas and GT Falcons. I hate to admit it but a 455 super duty Formula Firebird is better than all of them (well maybe not a A9X Torana).
Yes, in 67 400 was the biggest engine available. Strangely enough people call them big blocks but the block is physically the same size so I never understood that lol. That being said the block in that car is actually a 78 block from a w72. The famed XX block.
Now a vette question... For my timing table, I'm running the curve in 3001 that bob sent with the ebl flash. It is a stick curve. I am thinking about feeding it the six speed curve because it is a little more aggressive. The ramp in at part throttle feels better than wide open partly i think because the SA at part throttle is more aggressive. the other curve I am thinking is the curve from an 85 but that doesn't seem as aggressive as the 6 speed curve a to b wise. So what are you manual guys running? my all in timing is only 28 degrees at the moment as well because I don't want to push it that much yet.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Originally Posted by 84 4+3
Yes, in 67 400 was the biggest engine available. Strangely enough people call them big blocks but the block is physically the same size so I never understood that lol. That being said the block in that car is actually a 78 block from a w72. The famed XX block.
Now a vette question... For my timing table, I'm running the curve in 3001 that bob sent with the ebl flash. It is a stick curve. I am thinking about feeding it the six speed curve because it is a little more aggressive. The ramp in at part throttle feels better than wide open partly i think because the SA at part throttle is more aggressive. the other curve I am thinking is the curve from an 85 but that doesn't seem as aggressive as the 6 speed curve a to b wise. So what are you manual guys running? my all in timing is only 28 degrees at the moment as well because I don't want to push it that much yet.
Honestly, I would contact Bob and have a talk with him. I IS very knowledgeable about that sort of thing you are asking. 28* is pretty wimpy IMO, push it and drive it like you stole it. Is 28* all in at 3,500, 95-100 MAP? I would have to look, but I think I settled on 35* on mine, but I could be wrong and it's 34.5*. How many miles do you have on the motor now?
Honestly, I would contact Bob and have a talk with him. I IS very knowledgeable about that sort of thing you are asking. 28* is pretty wimpy IMO, push it and drive it like you stole it. Is 28* all in at 3,500, 95-100 MAP? I would have to look, but I think I settled on 35* on mine, but I could be wrong and it's 34.5*. How many miles do you have on the motor now?
Mines about 35ish all in. I think my table probably needs more work but I can post it later via a computer (instead of a phone). Also there is the latency values for the DUI distributor which may or may not be correct.
Edit: In any case I think around 35 is the magic number the SBCs seem to like.
Last edited by GregMartin; Mar 28, 2020 at 07:13 PM.
Honestly, I would contact Bob and have a talk with him. I IS very knowledgeable about that sort of thing you are asking. 28* is pretty wimpy IMO, push it and drive it like you stole it. Is 28* all in at 3,500, 95-100 MAP? I would have to look, but I think I settled on 35* on mine, but I could be wrong and it's 34.5*. How many miles do you have on the motor now?
I just took a peek again... 23 at 2400 and 26 around 4400... I don't know how bob feels about screenshots of timing tables being posted directly from the bins so I'll only upload my modified one. But yea, it is pretty weak. Driven about 500 miles now and the stocker bottom end hasn't let loose yet so...
My idle sits in the 50-60 range around 650-750 depending on temp... It chuggles too much with the cam at low speeds if I set it any higher. The cell it pulls when it feels best is the 75-80 range. So I would think I am safe to feed her some more.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
Yep, going to a heated O2 is the way to go if your motor is going from open to closed loop back and forth. It is caused by the O2 sensor cooling off too much. Just ensure you wire the three wire heated sensor to a switched circuit, so that it only comes ON when the motor is running. If not, you will drain your battery as it heats the sensor and will burn it up.