Jesus Krist, Aklim. You should put your pic in the "MUG shots thread"!
You'll have to ask the OP what shoe string means to him. But FYI, I put $6, JUNKYARD, BUICK 3800 INJECTORS in my Kart 3 years ago, b/c that is a "shoe string" project. They still work great. Someday I may have to spend $48 more dollars again...but for 3 years that has worked and saved me $250 that I put into other parts of the Kart. The OP, by buying one injector and doing the repair himself, isn't "spending more tomorrow"...he's only deferring the cost until later (and getting more utiliy out of the working injectors) and doing the work more times (his decision to weigh that).

I don't really GAF what your logic is. More importantly, I doubt the OP cares about your "logic" b/c a true, logical thinker would realize that "value" is different for everyone. You'd spend $300...I bet the OP won't. You can ask him if you want.

This is totally irrelevant to this the thread b/c I think the OP does work himself, but *I* would tell the customer the same thing that I already tell customers in similar situations: I would tell them how this MAY play out, and how much it COULD cost them. I would tell them that if they want to own a car like that, then they need work on it themselves or ownership becomes financially untenable very quickly. Having said that, "I'll help you any way that I can and do what ever you want to pay me to do".



This whole conversation is dumber than dumb, b/c the OP doesn't even know if he has a bad injector!





.

 

I think Aklim is actually a computer...ya know, artificial intelligence...he is not a real human with real problems or emotions and he always has the answer for every issue no matter what it is.

 

Not Sure who "Krist" is. If it was "Christ", I'm sure that if he were omnipotent, he'd know you were trying to skirt the "spirit of the law". Not sure what your reference to the Mug Shot's thread is about but I'm not fond of picture taking regardless of reason.

Didn't know they were Multecs. Your equation would be right IF he doesn't have a breakdown like the guy a few posts up and tow bills. A junkyard Bosch 2, I might for a car that goes nowhere. If I have to tow it home, it does bear some consideration. Besides, I listed out what could happen. If it does happen that the deferment of cost ends up costing him more in time and gaskets, well, I guess he can't say "OMG! Whoda thunk it!".

I guess my way of saying it isn't as polished as your carefully phrased way.

And yet, here you are.

cc Siveck on that too. Otherwise, I might start to think that you are looking out for me.

 

I wish. I could upgrade instead of growing old.

I haven't found that they aid the decision process but YMMV

Alas, no, but thanks for the complement.

 

Thanks for the drama, Aklim. Watch out for the FIC injectors: I have seen those with the clip problem mentioned earlier. Jon is great, just make sure he has a set that will plug-in with the clips.

 

Totally.

 

Really glad I don't run for office and have care what people, in general, think of me. Just have to care about those who write my checks and any hot girls that I can get lucky with.

Aren't those run of the mill injectors other than his specialty ones that he either buys new or as cores and refreshes them? What clips? The metal ones or the plugs? For the L98, I am using Bosch 2 without the metal thing and the others I got are also not using the retainer. I haven't used retainers since the stock injectors that came with my cars.

 

The clips lock the injectors to the fuel rail. Some do not fit and can’t use the clips. Love my car, would hate to watch it burn. Make sure you can lock your injectors to the rail. I hope that someone has some extra Multecs and will send a couple to the OP. Most likely the issue.

 

Isn't the fuel rail holding down the injectors? Last time I put them in, I had to tug the rail off. It's a HSR so might be different

 

aklim got it right. To finish my story, the Vette mechanic was at a dealership replaced 2 injectors and charged $900 dollars. The injectors cost $150 each from Goodwrench. Several months later the problem started again. With $150 each injectors I didn't take it back for more getting screwed. Bought a set of Adelpi's from Jon for $400 and changed them all myself. I asked the dealership why they didn't replace all of them the first time. they answered it was an old car so they didn't want to give me an exorbitant bill. LOL.

So, I have 6 old Multecs and 2 new ones I'll sell cheap.

 

The rail does hold the injectors down and is probably fine without the clips locking them to the rail. Just wanted the OP to be aware when shopping.

 

If I were into trap shooting, it would make a decent "clay". All 8 of them.

 

I thought so but can't be sure since I don't have a stock system anymore. I believe someone said it worked well for the assembly process.

 

Good morning - somehow I posted the following to the C3 forum yesterday, apologies-
Hey all, I'll update you all - sorry its been awhile but as you will see I think the method was wise-
So I contacted my local chevy dealer for pricing, they gave me a $175 price for the oem battery. And now that the situation has changed since I bought the car and was adamant about staying oem, I went to NAPA and got a $80.00 replacement. Oh the dealer also wanted $90.00 for installing the battery - I did it myself of course and easily.

I finished syphoning as much gas as I could with a soft flexible hose out of the tank, bought some mid grade (pricewise) injector cleaner, octane booster, and fuel conditioner (all in one), six gallons of fresh premium and gave it a try; She fired right up and ran smooth as silk. I couldnt believe it. But I also remembered the last time I drove her it died after warm up. Looking at the temperature gauge needle - just as it got past the last 0 of the 100, it went into a high idle and starting running rough. I tapped the accerlerator and it coughed and died. It did not restart but there was plenty of electrical power to try. I only tried it two short times before giving up. Next day after a night of cooling down, exact same thing happened. And the day after but it didnt run as rough when it went into high idle.
Now not to confuse the issue, but the forth time I sat inside the cockpit and ran the AC and radio and lights just to see if anything seemed wierd. As soon as she went into high idle (about 1100 to 1200 RPM v the normal 6 to 700 at idle) the AC quit and started blowing hot air. It did this the next 3 times I ran the car like this.
So as she runs fine while cold, I knew I could drive her in the cul de sac until hot, so I did. put about three miles on her this way, and I would always get it back in the driveway before she hit high idle as if you tap touch the gas in that high idle she coughs and dies.
This Friday I decided to just not do anything when it went into high idle and see what happened. It went just over 100 degrees, went into high idle and stayed that way for about 5 minutes then it kinda slowly started rpming down. real close to normal idle. I tapped the pedal and it responded instead of dieing! I let her idle and revved it up and down for about 5 minutes, shut it off and tried starting it again, and it did - started right up. I took it on a extended short drive after doing thiis a couple times and she drove good in the bigger slow neighborhood loop. But when I brought her back and shut down it wouldnt restart right away. But did after cooling down and now its not going into high idle. So today I'll put in some more fresh gas as the first six is almost gone and some more injector cleaner. Man I am sure hopefull - It was so good to drive it again!
Thank you for all your replies I read them all. Ill let you know how this goes....

 

So it rained yesterday and I dont take it out in the rain. But I did start it with no issues and then ran it for a long time. It never went back into that higher idle. And while revving it it was smooth. I am standing by my first thoughts that this was a bad gas issue. Maybe it doesnt go bad on its own, maybe it does. But fact is I added Stabil to the tank and didnt get back to it for about three years. What I siphoned out smelled like turpentine kind of, looked a sick yellow and was slightly cloudy. What I put in looked far different.
Ill put full insurance back on today and hopefully get some time this week to take her out on the road. If that goes good I think my next issues will be the exhaust - not as bad as I thought at first but the pipes still need replacing. Also clearing the cel.
Safe travels all

 

Well as a final cap to the issue, ran great yesterday. Took it to the gas station (here thats about 2 miles away) made it on reserve, filled up and drove a bit, all good. Now for the exhaust and ses light.
safe travels all,

 

To The OP: If your putting ethanol fuel in the tank and you still have the original Multec injectors; make sure you have a couple of hundred or your tow company telephone number in your wallet when you go for a spin.

 

Thanks, but I am not, and never have.