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so I got my c4 a few days ago and the previous owner had tried to switch it from fuel injected to carbureted (not sure why but that seems to be a semi-common thing to do) and he had it running for a bit but one day when he was running it hard he had not set up the fuel pressure regulator right so it dumped to much gas in the engine and it got in the oil and messed it up and spun a bearing. I bought it from him and am going to pull the engine and then assess the damage and go from there. a few questions. 1. which is the easiest way to pull the engine? with the whole trans (its the 6 speed manual in case that makes a difference), the engine and juts the bell housing, or juts the engine? 2. are there any tips or tricks you've found that help when trying to pull the engine (ie. removing a body panel part t get at a thing, getting this particular tool that will do a certain job a lot easier, etc...) only previous experience I've had pulling an engine is when I replaced the engine in my Subaru outback.
thanks
remove trans. Keep bell housing on. shifter in 3rd.
hood removal not necessary. Slow and steady. Make sure you get all harnesses and cables disconnected. Headers can stay on but removal makes things easier. I normally break the motor down to the intake and remove all front accessories.
one of those engine levelers helps immensely. You angle the engine down then slide forward and lift up at the same time.
watch the clearance at the intake and wiper motor cover. The cover can come off for an extra inch.
again, do a search. Lots of info. I’ve done it by myself twice. Watch the slave cylinder studs at the windshield. They don’t play well.
I just did this last week so let me know if you have any questions. I removed just the shortblock as I had already removed my heads and intake for porting. I also already had my exhaust removed. I unbolted trans from bellhousing, unbolted the c - beam, and removed the driveshaft. Then I used a jack to lower the transmission had a second person operate the jack while I kept the tranny level, then just set it on some blocks under the car. Then I removed the accessory belt assembly and set it to the side and pulled the engine.
once its on stands if you remove a wheel and slide the cherry picker in from the side it makes it easier. As said a leveler really helps.
Dread pulling engines on C4s may have to do it myself, may have the dreaded L98 head gasket deal.
once its on stands if you remove a wheel and slide the cherry picker in from the side it makes it easier. As said a leveler really helps.
Dread pulling engines on C4s may have to do it myself, may have the dreaded L98 head gasket deal.
Hell...if I can pull and reinstall an LT5 w/o removing the hood, an iddy biddy SBC should be a piece o cake. Come in from the side with the cherry picker with a leveler attached, and it is a day's work (4-6hrs) for me working alone (including a couple beers w/ lunch). (I suggest leaving the FW attached, but remove the trans and bell housing on a ZF6. The with the lighter/smaller Doug Nash 4+3 I might leave attached, but the hood would have to likely be removed for convenience.)
The worst part is worrying about how much work it might be. (That is always my experience!) But, once you get into it, AND having the right tools at hand (critically important!!!), you'll be pleasantly surprised at how much easier it will be than what you might have anticipated.(I find, anyway!).
Yeah...its the bellhousing bolts..and havinga fd up spine & positional vertigo dont help.
Love driving this thing til I gotta wrench on it. Spoiled by the 60s cars a 5th grader could work on .
Don't forget to remove the wiper motor. Pulling the engine will hit the wiper motor and damage the electronics that make the intermittent wipers work. You will have a better chance finding unicorns then the the parts to fix the intermittent wiper board. It only takes 10 min to remove it.