Old subject I know but, I didn't see the info I'm looking for in the other posts I've read. OK. I have a '95 coupe, LT1 with the ZF 6 speed. I bought it in late July of this year. I do not have the PKE key fob. It was starting fine and ran fine until it had to sit for several weeks. Couldn't get the reg. & plates due to covid restriction at the DMV. Finally got reg. & plates and the batt is dead. Charged batt, which, is now holding its charge at 12.8 volts. Turn the key to "run" position and I get good, bright warning lights that all seem normal and I can hear the fuel pump run. Turn the key to "start" and nothing. The dash lights remain bright but not even a click from the starter.

I locked the doors using the interior auto lock switch, closed the door and unlocked with the key and heard a solenoid sound from the door when I unlocked it, then I tried again. Still nothing from the starter. Then I removed the PKE fuse and tried again, still nothing. I suspect something is amiss with the VATs/PKE/Theft Deterrence systems but I'm not sure where to go from here. Are there more diagnostic steps I can take? If I have the PCM reprogramed to shut off VATs/PKE/Theft Deterrence do you think that will resolve my problem? I don't really care if the VATs/PKE/Theft Deterrence systems are functional so losing them is not a concern for me.

Thanks

 

If you hear absolutely nothing, no click, no dimming of dash lights, that seems to me that it's a VATS problem.

When you turn the key to 'start', does the "SECURITY" light come on solid?

 

I didn't notice. I'll check and get back to you.

 

No "Security" light. The only dash lights that do come on in the "start" position are the 'Park" and "Brake Pressure" lights. With the key in the "Run" position I see the "Check Gauges" light. which, remains on with the key in the "Start" position. Just had a thought. Does the seat belt need to be connected for the starter to turn over?

 

Does the starter even get a signal to crank?

 

Hi Aklim, I don't know. How would I check that? Keep in mind I can't get under the car where it is.

Heading for bed now. I'll check back tomorrow....make that later today. :-)

 

I had that problem happen with 2 cars after last years storage. With key in the run position try jumping the positive lead on the starter to the start terminal on the solenoid (sometimes this can be from above) and see if that works. Seems like it just for a lack of better terms a "dead spot" develops. After doing that I had no further issues the rest of the summer.

 

Clutch safety switch? Sorry, I have an auto and have no idea if these have one.

 

yes they do, Mine when out earlier this year, pretty easy to test, unplug from switch and jumper the (2) wires together. On our '84 the plug was easy to excess

 

2 wires at the starter. Battery and the exciter wire. Put an idiot light at the exciter wire, crank and see if it lights up. If it does, starter is bad.

 

Thanks guys. I'll work through each of your suggestions and let you know.

 

The seatbelt is unrelated. The "Check Gauges" light is wired directly to the oil pressure switch, so whenever the key is in 'run' and there is no oil pressure (such as the engine not running) that light will be on. It's normal.

No "SECURITY" light coming on solid either means the light is disabled (does it ever come on? have you ever seen it flash?) or that VATS is not the problem. When VATS can't detect the correct key and the igition switch moves to start, the SECURITY light comes on solid to alert the driver that the key is incorrect. It then locks out the car for 3 minutes.

Definitely check to see if there's any voltage at the starter solenoid.

This. The clutch position switch supplies power to the VATS relay when the clutch is depressed. The CCM supplies ground to the VATS relay when the correct key is inserted into the key cylinder. When both of these things are working, this engages the VATS relay, which allows the connection between the 'start' position of the ignition cylinder and the starter solenoid.

 

Thanks for the explanation Nomake. I can't get to the starter from above. The exhaust manifold and cat are in the way. Testing the starter will have to wait until I can get the car moved somewhere else. I got sidetracked when our powered gate quit working. It may be a few days before I can get back to the vette again but, I will post as soon as I can get back to it.

Thanks, Everyone

 

That's what I had to do on mine as well. Had same symptoms that OP is describing.
​​​​Can't hurt to test.

 

Thanks Saftie, I should be able to get back on the Vette in a few more days. I'll definitely test the clutch safety switch. I hope that's all it is.


















hope thats all it is

 

Good luck.

 

If you have a spare ignition key, try using it. The pellets on the keys get worn and don't always make the contact needed. Clean the key?

 

No spare key jazfe. I'll try cleaning if the clutch safety switch checks out OK. Thanks.

 

Merry Christmas everyone! I'd hoped for a better Christmas day as I was able to get back to the vette today. I jumpered what I'm 99% sure is the clutch safety switch. A black, mostly flat connector with two wires, one purple and one yellow. Still nothing! Ugh! Electrical is what I dislike and fear most on any car but, I'll keep plugging away at it.

 

Not sure what colors for your year, but you actually did jump the connector on the wiring harness and not the switch, yes?

​​​​​I was under my dash the other day and took a pic of my 87