85 idle
Just because you put new parts on the car doesn't mean the parts are working properly. Your new parts could be faulty, happened all the time when I was a mechanic. If you want to continue to throw money into parts the mass air flow sensor and the coolant temp sensor for the computer. MAF sensor determines engine load and can cause idle issues (not common). Coolant sensor is the "choke" for the engine. It tells the computer how cold the engine is and the computer adjust the fuel amount. That doesn't usually cause idle issue at an in-between temp like that but anything is possible I suppose.
A better description of the idle issue would be handy. Is it running rich or lean? Just a low ideal? What does the tach say? You're doing a lot of work to get a specific idle at a temperature the car doesn't operate at for an extended period of time.
Last edited by BowerPower; Mar 18, 2021 at 04:45 AM.
The usual issues are below
The throttle body screw has been adjusted - means redo the base idle setup (google it)
The EGR exhaust gas recirculation valve not seating, allowing exhaust to enter inlet at idle. -Check with flashlight suck on the hose check it lifts and drops down fully.
Leaking intake runner gaskets or loose bolts- replace gaskets / tighten bolts. (using a propane blowtorch just a little bit near the intake runners see if idle speeds up in areas)
I have an 85 with smooth stable idle, factory std should run around 600 rpm (580 rpm hot via ecm idle temp settings).
Start should have a high idle for a few moments, 1200 rpm then settle to 600 rpm fairly quickly.
Cold start will be a little higher until warm via the ecm idle temp settings.
There was a GM recall to adjust base idle setting speed from 400 to 500 rpm in drive, to resolve a stall complaint. (Google base idle setup for procedure).
Cheers











