Normal Brake Feeling 94?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 38
Likes: 2
Normal Brake Feeling 94?
94 Corvette
Had to replace power brake booster...got that job done. Then I bled brakes, and attempted to bleed the abs module thing behind driver seat. I got no brake fluid to come out there. So that whole thing confuses me. Also, my master cylinder has a one of the electrical connections that looks like it got hot, and has been unplugged since I bought it last year.
Test drove car- brakes stop, I went up to 60 and hammered on brakes, and it stopped straight and very efficiently. Seems to brake just fine.
Only problem is the pedal still feels soft kind of....BUT I dont have many miles driving in this car so I don't know what a 94 Vette pedal is supposed to look like.
I am curious to yalls thoughts on my issues above. Thank you.
Had to replace power brake booster...got that job done. Then I bled brakes, and attempted to bleed the abs module thing behind driver seat. I got no brake fluid to come out there. So that whole thing confuses me. Also, my master cylinder has a one of the electrical connections that looks like it got hot, and has been unplugged since I bought it last year.
Test drove car- brakes stop, I went up to 60 and hammered on brakes, and it stopped straight and very efficiently. Seems to brake just fine.
Only problem is the pedal still feels soft kind of....BUT I dont have many miles driving in this car so I don't know what a 94 Vette pedal is supposed to look like.
I am curious to yalls thoughts on my issues above. Thank you.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 17,377
Likes: 6,523
From: Melbourne, FL
Get new soft lines. They will get softer with time and flex when you hit the brakes, giving you a soft pedal.
You could upgrade to stainless steel brake lines, but new rubber lines will be a big improvement if you haven't replaced them recently.
You could upgrade to stainless steel brake lines, but new rubber lines will be a big improvement if you haven't replaced them recently.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 38
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Could this be the issue....the electric connection on the Master Cylinder under the two steel lines is burnt and not hooked up. I removed the old MC and unscrewed that connection and then put it in the new MC that I am currently bench bleeding. Now I have brake fluid dripping out of this electrical connection. Im thinking if fluid can get out, air can get in there. What is that part called so I can get a replacement??????
I have not replaced the brake lines, so I will look into that. Thank you.
I have not replaced the brake lines, so I will look into that. Thank you.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 38
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Ok, I double checked while MC was in vice, it was leaking from my plastic screw thing for the bleeder set up...tightened it down, bench bled again, put on the car, now going to bleed brakes and see what I get for a pedal.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 1,925
Likes: 610
From: Orange, CA
Yes. If fluid comes from that bottom port, the master cylinder is defective. That port is not supposed to have fluid in it. It is for a physical switch that contacts a plastic ‘shuttle’ inside the master cylinder.
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2020
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OK, so I put new MC on car. No leaks from the pressure switch as for mentioned in above posts. Re bled all brakes. Good good fluid coming out of all 4 corners. Test drove car. Car stops good. I sped up to high speed and stepped on brakes. The ARS I think light came on, and the brakes did the ABS thing stopping the car good without locking brakes. So based on all this, I think my brakes are good now....I hope!
I just have to figure out why the brake pressure switch got hot and melted, and also find out if it is important to have that hooked up and if it causes computer codes.
I just have to figure out why the brake pressure switch got hot and melted, and also find out if it is important to have that hooked up and if it causes computer codes.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 1,925
Likes: 610
From: Orange, CA
No, it will not cause any codes. The sensors on the brake master cylinder (both the pressure switch and the reservoir level switch) are directly connected to the dash, and do not go to the EBTCM or CCM. Failing to connect the sensors on the brake master cylinder merely means you lose the dash warnings for low fluid and brake pressure imbalance. This means you will not get any advance warning if your master cylinder fails catastrophically, or a brake line bursts, or something like that.
If you want to replace the sensor, the problem is that you'll need to find out which one goes to your master cylinder. There were two sensors over this run of the car, and both had totally different threads. Now that you've replaced the master cylinder, you'll need to confirm which one actually fits. Here are the two sensors:
https://www.corvettepacifica.com/pro...0-95-with-zr1/
https://www.corvettepacifica.com/pro...-engine-95-96/
Ignore the "fits years" parts. The important part is the actual thread. The first one is M12x1.0, the second is 3/8"-24. Find out what thread the port on the master cylinder is, then buy the appropriate switch.